How much Seachem Flourish for EI Dosing Micros? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Question How much Seachem Flourish for EI Dosing Micros?

I sourced out dry fert macros from a local hydroponics store but I ended up getting Seachem Flourish for my micros. I'm having a hard time figuring out how much of the flourish I should be dosing for EI dosing. Any recommendations?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:15 PM
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What size tank do you have?


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:22 PM
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Tank size, type of fixture, tube or led temperature, plant mass?


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I should have provided details. I suspect the limited growth I'm seeing of some plants is due to not dosing things correctly, particularly the micros. I'm sure the diatoms will disappear with time but the yellow/slow growth and transparent leaves is what I especially want to address.

Here are the complete details on my tank:
  • Tank's been up since the 29th of July, CO2 and dosing from day one but I haven't yet dialed in the dosing.
  • 60x45x45cm tank (~33 US gallons)
  • 78 degrees
  • Finnex Ray 2 DS on the front 1/2 of the tank, on for 8 hours
  • Finnex Fugeray Planted+ on the rear 1/2 of the tank, on for 7 hours. This was added Monday this week because only the very middle of the tank was bright.
  • Pressured CO2 3.5bps, inline atomizer. 30-35ppm according to drop checker from green leaf.
  • Eheim 2028 providing 10x turnover
  • Eheim skimmer providing extra flow at the back of the tank where the water is stagnant otherwise
  • AquaSoil Africana
  • Seachem root tabs under almost everything, spaced 5" apart.
  • 65g Potassium Nitrate dissolved in 500mL of water, 7.5mL 3x/week, increasing to 15mL today. Nitrates are at 10ppm at all times when using Salifert test kit. Trying an increase because of low phosphates.
  • 15g Potassium Phosphate dissolved in 500mL of water, 7.5mL 3x/week, increasing to 15mL today. Phosphates are at 0.5-1pm when using API test kit. Trying an increase.
  • Up until 5 days ago I dosed Seachem Flourish Trace 1 capful 3x/week and Seachem Flourish Iron 1/2 capful once a week. Suspecting micros are lacking, switching to Seachem Flourish
  • Now dosing Seachem Flourish (contains 10x the trace of Flourish Trace) 1 capful 3x a week.
  • 7GH at all times. 7kH from tap. 4kH in aquarium just before weekly water change. I dose 1 tbsp baking soda once a week, a day or two before the change.
  • 60% water change every tuesday
  • The plants don't start to pearl until the lights have been on for about 5 or 6 hours


Here's a photo of the tank, in case that helps:


Here's what I'm seeing:
  • Bacopa: Brown diatoms on old growth. Growth is about 1" every 4 days?
  • Wendtii: old leaves are kind of sea-through with holes. Growth of existing leaves is about 1/2 inch a week.
  • Crypt Parva: at front of tank, zero growth, covered in diatoms. Gently cleaning once a week manually with a cloth without removing from substrate.
  • Micro-Sword Narrow Leaf: little to now growth
  • Slight bit of diatoms on glass under lights. Cleaning with a razor once a week.
  • Cabomba is growing great, 1" every 2 days.
  • Dwarf Baby Tears almost completely melted. only 15% of it remains.
  • Pogostemon Stellata: 1/2" per week new growth. New growth is very pale. Old growth turns brown and dies about 2 weeks after it grows.

Bump: I forgot to mention the CO2 turns on 1.5 hours before the lights and turns off when the lights are turned off. It takes it a while to ramp up it up to 30ppm, 30 minutes wasn't enough.

Bump: sorry, and here's a side view, to help with visualizing the plant mass (photo is from a few days ago):


75g high tech, low maintenance with Angels & mild mannered fish
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 01:19 AM
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I'm not familar with diy fertz. so I can't comment on K amounts etc.

But in reference to your original question, I'd be dosing a cap full every second day. And macro on the other day. On macro day I'd also dose iron. Again 1 cap full of iron (assuming it's a store bought bottle).

Your tank is still very new. Plants are likely still adjusting to their environment.

Do you switch you co2 on before the lights come on? If not, you should. Have the solenoid on a timer. Set it to come on around 45mins before the lights switch on and have the co2 switch off 45mins before the lights go off. You might get faster pearling this way - the water column is saturated with co2 when the light come on.

Down the track you might want to look into getting a co2 reactor - better diffusion for sure.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantrasy View Post
I'm not familar with diy fertz. so I can't comment on K amounts etc.

But in reference to your original question, I'd be dosing a cap full every second day. And macro on the other day. On macro day I'd also dose iron. Again 1 cap full of iron (assuming it's a store bought bottle).

Your tank is still very new. Plants are likely still adjusting to their environment.

Do you switch you co2 on before the lights come on? If not, you should. Have the solenoid on a timer. Set it to come on around 45mins before the lights switch on and have the co2 switch off 45mins before the lights go off. You might get faster pearling this way - the water column is saturated with co2 when the light come on.

Down the track you might want to look into getting a co2 reactor - better diffusion for sure.
Ok I'll try Iron on the same day as Macro, and the Flourish every 2nd day, one capfull.

The CO2 used to come on 30 minutes before the lights but it wouldn't build up to 30ppm until about 3 hours later. Now the controller is programmed to turn it on 1.5 hours before the lights turn on, to give it time to build up to full levels.

I have an inline CO2 reactor. It's a Green Leaf inline one, detailed in the same post above.

Thanks for the tips.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 03:53 AM
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When you see a colour change in your co2 indicator bell, it's actually telling you the co2 concentration about 2hrs ago. They look nice, but they're a bit pointless imo. Pearling plants tell the story.

An inline reactor and an inline atomiser are two different things. An atomiser has a ceramic disc/barrel and you need high pressure to force the co2 through it. You need to keep it clean. Realistically, you need to own 2 so you can swap over a dirty one for a clean one. A branded reactor usually has a spinning wheel that smashes up the co2 in to the water (like Sera or Ista). Some reactors, like the home made ones, don't have a wheel. They are hardly ever need cleaning. I have a tank the some size as your and use the Sera 500 reactor. A reactor chamber is long and allows for better co2 diffusion. With a reactor you use less co2 for the same results. A reactor also reduces/eliminates micro bubbles from entering the tank.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantrasy View Post
When you see a colour change in your co2 indicator bell, it's actually telling you the co2 concentration about 2hrs ago. They look nice, but they're a bit pointless imo. Pearling plants tell the story.

An inline reactor and an inline atomiser are two different things. An atomiser has a ceramic disc/barrel and you need high pressure to force the co2 through it. You need to keep it clean. Realistically, you need to own 2 so you can swap over a dirty one for a clean one. A branded reactor usually has a spinning wheel that smashes up the co2 in to the water (like Sera or Ista). Some reactors, like the home made ones, don't have a wheel. They are hardly ever need cleaning. I have a tank the some size as your and use the Sera 500 reactor. A reactor chamber is long and allows for better co2 diffusion. With a reactor you use less co2 for the same results. A reactor also reduces/eliminates micro bubbles from entering the tank.
How many bubbles per second do you run through your sera reactor and what ppm of co2 do you end up with?

Any ways, back to the micros, how can I tell if I'm not dosing enough micros, if everything else was correct?

75g high tech, low maintenance with Angels & mild mannered fish
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 06:28 AM
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counting bubble is guessing really. my bubble might be a different size than yours. I have my bubble counter filled with vegetable glycerine (a bit viscous) so the bubble move through it a bit slower. I count around 5-6 bps.

i guess you'll know if you're not dosing enough micros if you see plant deficiencies. Google 'planted tank deficiency symptoms'

There's a guy called 'Zapins' he's a wealth of knowledge regarding deficiencies.


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