Can you please help me properly dose my dry ferts. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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Can you please help me properly dose my dry ferts.

I recently bought some dry ferts online for my 75g heavily planted tank. I have no clue where to start or end with proper dosing. My biggest concern is that I know with EI dosing your supposed to do a 50% wc at the end of the week.

This is an issue because my tap water ph and so much higher then my tanks. I have been forced to do smaller wcs three times a week. I normally change about 15-20g a week which is not close to 50% and its also done over a 3 days period.

So this leaves me very confused and unsure how to proceed. I want to provide the proper amount of nutrients to not overdose and cause problems. I have small algae issues which I am currently spot treating lightly with hydrogen peroxide. But I feel my main issue is poor plant growth which is allowing algae to win.

I really just need so very direct help.

My light is finnex planted plus, it sits about 17-18 inches above the substrate (Safe-t-sorb). I run the lights 8 hours a day on a timer. I have 1 powerhead (hydor 425 nano) and I run a eheim 2075 pro 3 filter. I run a temp of 79-80.

As of the past month or so I have been simply dosing 1-2 caps of flourish comprehensive. plant list is as followed

THE PLANTS
- Anubius Barteri
- Anubius Petite
- Java Fern
- Lace Fern
- Java Moss
- Christmas Moss
- Flame Moss
- Cryptocoryne Parva
- Cryptocoryne Wendtti
- Najas Guadalupensis
- Hygroryza Aristata
- Cardimine Lyrata
- Asian Ambulia
- Dwarf Sagittaria
- Rotala Rotundifolia
- Rotala Macrandra Green
- Bacopa Caroliniana
- Micranthemum Umbrosum
- Pennywort
- Jungle Val
- Hygrophilia Sunset
- Hygrophilia Compacta

THE HARDWARE
- Eheim pro 3 2075
- Eheim Jager 300 watt heater
- 48" Finnex Planted Plus LED fixture
- Hydor nano 425 power head
- Safe-T-Sorb substrate

I want to start dosing as of monday so hopefully you guys can help get me started in a good direction. I am just worried about overdosing and not being able to reset, mainly.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 08:43 AM
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With low to medium light and no CO2, you can use 1/3 of the doses you find in this thread.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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What about the fact that I can't do large weekly water changes? Also, does iit matter that I have to do small water changes over 3 days?

Do I figure out the amounts based on my empty 75g or do I take account for substrate and hardscape? And figure the volume that way?

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 01:37 PM
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You can do large water changes. Ph doesn't matter. Gh and kh do and they won't change with weekly water changes without considerable evaporation.

If in doubt, add more plants!

My not-enough-plants-but-not-enough-space-to-put-anymore-so-will-start-going-up-box-of-water.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 01:50 PM
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With low dosing, "normal" waterchanges should be enough. If you cant change all the water in one go, then do as much as you can and repeat over a couple of days.
You calculate the actual volume of water in your tank. If you use a figure of 85% of tank volume, it should be in the right ballpark unless your tank is unusually full or devoid of hardscape (then adjust down or up).

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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I know pH won't matter to plants but to my fish it will. When it shoots up from 6.6 to almost 8 my fish will be stressed and don t want that.

So I shouldn't use 75g but rather figure out the amount after substrate and such, right?

For dosing, should I do a day of.macro then a day of.micro and do that for the week?

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I normally do Fri sat sun for my water changes. At night.

So I guess would have to dose in the mornings Monday thru Fri.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 03:13 PM
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You can reduce the dose to about 25% of EI with 20% water changes pretty safely. You can see what the expected tank levels will be over time doing this using this accumulation calculator. Here is a post explaining the basics of non-limiting nutrients and has recommended nutrient levels.

Below is a recipe for a 25% EI solution for 65 gallons (10 gallons removed for displacement). I would mix each one separately until you get things dialed in. I prefer dosing something everyday but you can dose 3 times a week. I simply alternate macros and micros then change water on the 7th day without dosing.

The amounts below are for a 500ml container and 5ml dose size.

One dose of each will yield the following results...

NO3 1.875
N 0.4235
PO4 0.235
P 0.0766
K 1.829
Fe 0.125
Mg 0.0268
dGH 0.0061
Cu 0.0017
B 0.0153
Mn 0.0358
Mo 0.001
S 0.2255
Zn 0.0071

KH2PO4 8.3 gm (approximately 1 1/2 teaspoons)
KNO3 75.2 gm (approximately 14 1/2 teaspoons)
Plantex CSM+B 47.1 gm (approximately 11 teaspoons)
K2SO4 30.2 gm (approximately 4 3/4 teaspoons)
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 05:37 PM
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A ph change will not affect your fish granted kh and gh remain constant. . If ur ph is of tank is 6.6, and u do 50% at ph 8 your ph will jump to 7.3 roughly. Still your gh and kh won't change and that is all that matters to your fish. Do a search on here. There are numerous threads restating what I have told you. Fish rely on gh and kh, not ph.. Ph does not matter for fish if kh and gh remains stable. My tap and tank ph differ by about the same. Tank 6.6, tap 7.6. I use a diy python and do 50% changes. Fish show no distress.
Aquarists who use co2 have a huge change daily in the ph. Fish don't care within reason as long as gh and kh remain constant.

If in doubt, add more plants!

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted to dose dry, how would I figure that out?

If a full dose means a 50% WC wouldn't a 25% of the full dose only need 12.5% WC weekly?

I was told to do 1/3 of ei dose for my setup, do you think 1/4 of ei is better?

And if a 1/4 of ei is like a full dose for my tank then wouldn't I still need a 50% to remove and start over?

So confused

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy View Post
You can do large water changes. Ph doesn't matter. Gh and kh do and they won't change with weekly water changes without considerable evaporation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy View Post
A ph change will not affect your fish granted kh and gh remain constant. . If ur ph is of tank is 6.6, and u do 50% at ph 8 your ph will jump to 7.3 roughly. Still your gh and kh won't change and that is all that matters to your fish. Do a search on here. There are numerous threads restating what I have told you. Fish rely on gh and kh, not ph.. Ph does not matter for fish if kh and gh remains stable. My tap and tank ph differ by about the same. Tank 6.6, tap 7.6. I use a diy python and do 50% changes. Fish show no distress.
Aquarists who use co2 have a huge change daily in the ph. Fish don't care within reason as long as gh and kh remain constant.

I keep hearing different things in terms of how.much of a pH swing effects fish.

I was also told that with large weekly wcs that the c02 levels will spike with the WC because more c02 in tap water than in the tank. And thus the instability with c02 will cause algae issues. Am I right?

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 05:47 PM
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Stop thinking so much. I have a 65 and I dose roughly 1/16 csm+b twice times a week and and 1/8 of each macro except nitrogen twice a week. Reduce weekly until you notice deficiencies and diagnose and adjust. What works for one person may not work for you. Watch your plants, understand your algae.
Do your water changes with lights off and the change in co2 will not affect co2 levels and they will level out when lights come back on and algae will not result.

If in doubt, add more plants!

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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how does the lights off effect the c02?

how much of a water change do you do per week?

I am new to fish keep and planted tanks as this is my first tank and its only been a bit more than 2 months. I have no clue of what deficiency means what? I don't even truly know how to diagnose or point out a plant deficiency :s

I have invested a lot of time and energy into building this tank and I don't think I am over thinking it but just being thorough. Don't want to take chances.

Its been this sort of mentality that has kept me from losing any fish and providing a quick and painless cycle.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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oh and I figured out the volume of the water would be 58us gal maybe 59us gal, because of minusing the volume the substrate takes up. this would impact my dosing as well.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 08:21 PM
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Co2 fluctuations only lead to algae during photo period(lights on).
I check my water on Wednesday and Sunday. If nitrates dictate I do a water change when everyone goes to bed. Usually around what I think to be 50-60%.
I think "zapins" has a deficiency page that would be helpful for u to check out. For example a leaf being absorbed from the tip I believe is indicative of a nitrogen deficiency.
Go to algae section here and go to the stickies. Each algae usually indicates a certain deficiency or high levels of certain ferts, or instability of co2.
Patience is key.

If in doubt, add more plants!

My not-enough-plants-but-not-enough-space-to-put-anymore-so-will-start-going-up-box-of-water.

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