First, set up the tank so there is adequate water surface ripple, so the entire water surface has distinct rippling, not splashing, just rippling. Next, if you really want the ability to use high CO2 and high light, use a wet/dry filter, which will ensure that you have high dissolved oxygen content in the water.
The tricky part is finding the nerve to jack up the bubble rate high enough. When you have fish you will probably attribute every twitch a fish makes to CO2 distress, and be reluctant to increase the bubble rate enough. But, if you use a drop checker, with 4 dKH water in it, you can ignore what the fish do until you get the drop checker liquid a nice green color. You will probably still be short on CO2, so you can start a slow adjustment of the bubble rate, a small increase every few days, watching the fish for clustering at the top corners of the tank, laying on the substrate, losing colors, etc. which may indicate they are stressed by the CO2. With well oxygenated water you shouldn't see any distress. Also, watch the plants, looking for better growth each time you increase the bubble rate. That could be more pearling, faster growth, healthier looking growth, etc. Stop the increases in bubble rate when you don't see any benefit to the plants from the last increase. Finally, you will have the optimum bubble rate, but only for the current tank plant load and other tank conditions. When the plant growth increases substantially you will probably want to try to increase the bubble rate again.
While doing all of this, concentrate on keeping a clean, well maintained aquarium, without excessive plant density, no dead plant debris, no build up of lots of mulm, clean filter hoses, clean everything, and with regular big water changes.
You still won't know how much CO2 you have in the water - 30 ppm, 50 ppm, 70 ppm??? But, you shouldn't really care either.