Mini Cycle - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Mini Cycle

My tank is having a mini cycle. I just switched from a 75g planted to a 20H planted.

I used new substrate and added a bunch of gravel from my 75 into a large micron bag and set it in the tank. The first 2 days I got excellent pearling and plants were looking fantastic. Now my Cabomba Furcata is melting/ turning to mush on the leaves is has except for the tops of each are as green and slightly red as I have seen. Also my Jungle vals have started to melt also. Using EI dosing. I get no pearling now from the tank. Lighting is 70 watts of HQI MH Ushio 10000k bulb. I've been running the photo period for ~5 hours a day as I figure this setup is pushing the high light stage. Drop checker has a nice yellowish hue with 4 dkh solution and my 4 Cardinal Tetras are showing no stress. Tank is exremely heavily planted. Filtration is an Eheim Ecco 2236 with an inline heater and DIY reactor. Regulator is running about 1-1.5 bps from a rex reg with ideal needle valve 24/7.

I know it is a mini cycle as my ammonia jumped to between .5 and 1.0 and my nitrites are at ~ 0.2. My Nitrates are at 10 ppm. anything I can do or should I just wait it out and everything will grow back. These are the only 2 plants really showing any signs of problems except for a few of my Bacopas.

Hope I covered everything. Thanks in advance.

Craig
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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bump... advice?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 07:46 PM
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Sounds frustrating. Some plants are just more sensitive than others. Ive read cambodia has a tendency to melt and or break apart. Im not really sure what you can do about it. All i know is that when plants move (which most dont like) it will take a while for them to get used to their new surroundings. Example would be crypts melting and then regrowing their leaves afterwards.

I hope somone with more exp chimes in. Sorry i cant be of any more help.

32 gal planted amazonian-ish tank
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 09:36 PM
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IMO they are just acclimating to the new lights...Any time I switch plants from my 2 tanks I get some die off and then new growth.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 11:38 PM
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You're using a 70watt HQI over a 20gal tank?

Holy lighting!

Any chance that the plants are experiencing higher temps in addition to/associated with the light increase?





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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Actually this started a couple of days prior to me setting up my 70 watt MH. I'm getting some LEDs to run for more viewing hours since I only run the MH for a few hours each day. Here is the link; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...id=p2759.l1259

I plan to mount one to each side of my Viper clamp on MH fixture.

Craig
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 05:18 AM
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re: 70W MH

Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
You're using a 70watt HQI over a 20gal tank?

Holy lighting!

I have a 15 gallon tall tank and I run 120watts of MH light over it with no problems. I also have a 5 gallon tank and run 100watts of MH over it. Before you flip your lid, read on.... :-)

In my case, I'm trying to target a specific amount of light on the bottom of the tank. I do this by measuring with a PAR meter (a meter that measures photosynthetic active radiation) and I forumlate my lighting until I get the amount I want. I specifically target 100 Ámoles/m2/sec because I consider this amount to be "moderate" light. It has been shown that plants saturate photosynthesis around 600 Ámoles/m2/sec. And T.Barr used 450 Ámoles/m2/sec when he did his research for the Estimative Index because he considered that to be very high light for aquatic plants. Also, Diana Walstad reports that 200 Ámoles/m2/sec is a lighting intensity found in many natural places where aquatic plants are found growing in streams and lakes.

So, I guess the point I'm really trying to make is that even though one may use MH, VHO, or CF, it all depends on how much photosynthetic light is really getting into the tank. Watts per gallon doesn't tell you very much when evaluating a tank's lighting setup. That's why my 100W MH over my 5gallon doesn't compute for many people.

I really look forward to the day when we can all talk in terms of Ámoles/m2/sec (PAR) because then it doesn't matter WHAT kind of lights you use as long as you're achieving a sufficient amount of PAR. And consider this: Even if you used CF and I used MH, 100 Ámoles/m2/sec measured on the bottom of my tank would be the exactly the same as 100 Ámoles/m2/sec measured at the bottom of your tank! Wouldn't that be nice??

Cheers!

Jeremy Squires, Toronto, ON
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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If you ever fly my way abring your meter I would love to know what I got going on...

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