High nitrites... - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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High nitrites...

I have a 3 week old tank that is planted and I added some danios just last week (3). I notice earlier this week that the nitrite levels have risen up towards 5ppm. I did a WC on Tuesday but its back up to 2ppm. I have 2 2217 running and I know it takes time to build the bacteria but should I be overly concerned? The fish aren't stressed out by any means but I was hoping to move the inhabitants of the 20 gallon to the new tank but I have a feeling I shouldn't do it since it will overload the bacteria growing. Any ideas? Thanks...
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 02:25 AM
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Danios are usually pretty hardy fish. Keep one eye on the danios and the other eye on your nitrite levels, keep up on the water changes and maybe use Prime, Amquel or some other chemical that reduces nitrites.

You could also try some Stability or another "beneficial bacteria increaser" to give a jump to your bacteria levels in the filter.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 02:29 AM
 
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not to hijack but does stability work?
I have some but have been hesitant to use it.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 03:30 AM
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I personally have my doubts. Doesn't seem to me that aerobic bacteria should be able to do well dried or in a liquid suspension in airtight containers... but then again they are bacteria, so IDK for sure?

BioSpira is the only one I personally would bother trying, since it's at least kept refrigerated, but that stuff's expensive.

I just use mulm from an established tank- tons cheaper and I know the source.





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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
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this may sound like a dumb question but what exactly is mulm? I did put some of the ceramic rings from my established filter to one of the new filters last week. I was going to do the same thing to the other filter but does it help at all?

I have heard of bio-spira but can't find a source for it locally. I will try to keep up with the WC and add prime if it gets worse. Thanks for the quick replies!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:41 AM
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Mulm is the plant/animal litter that you might find floating around on the surface of your gravel. Essentially, it seeds the new tank, and makes the cycle finish faster.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 09:24 AM
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Mulm is just a nice word for decomposed fish poo and dead leaf matter.

It contains a lot of helpful bacteria to get a tank established.

You can also try to add some very fast growing plants to help keep ammonia down while your bacteria colony gets established. I like duckweed and hygrophila sp. for this role.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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I do have quite a bit of stem plants but I should probably add some more. Unfortunately, some of the plants in the new tank didn't make it and are melting/decomposing. Should I just leave it there and call it mulm or should I actually transfer some of the mulm from the other tank? Sorry for the dumb questions but just need to get this sorted out. Thanks!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
I personally have my doubts. Doesn't seem to me that aerobic bacteria should be able to do well dried or in a liquid suspension in airtight containers... but then again they are bacteria, so IDK for sure?
I used Stability in my tanks and they were cycled within a week. I got a tiny, but readable, reading of nitrAtes on my 8th day of setup.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlos05 View Post
I do have quite a bit of stem plants but I should probably add some more. Unfortunately, some of the plants in the new tank didn't make it and are melting/decomposing. Should I just leave it there and call it mulm or should I actually transfer some of the mulm from the other tank? Sorry for the dumb questions but just need to get this sorted out. Thanks!
Bring in some mulm from the other tank.

Remove any dead or dying leaves from plants- they will just pollute your water. Do you know why the plants are dying? Living healthy plants should help cycle your tank more quickly...

What kind and how much lighting do you have on this tank? ARe you using any fertilizers at this point?





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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Again, sorry for the dumb question but should I move mulm into the tank or into the filter or both?

Not sure why their dying...it could be plant melt for all I know. Most of the plants are slowly growing and most of have roots growing but some are not doing so well. I have 216W (tek 4x54w) running. I do have fertilizers but the biggest thing I'm lacking is CO2. I'm waiting for the stuff from Rex in order to add another line from my current regulator. Hopefully with the CO2, it will improve.

I'm also wondering how long I should have the lights on since I'm already battling algae.

Thanks for the responses...
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 07:30 AM
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Moving mulm into both your tank and filter is fine for seeding the new tank.

Anthony


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 10:06 AM
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How big is the tank? If you are starting to grow algae just cut it back from what you currently have it on for.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-05-2008, 03:36 PM
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Teks put out killer lighting. Your plants are definitely nutrient deficient if they are trying to grow under that amount of lighting without ferts. IMO you should cut down your lighting at least by 1/2 ATM- if the fixture isn't set up with 2 cords I'd personally remove 2 bulbs for now and run with 2 bulbs for 8 hours or less till you get ferts and CO2 going in this tank.

You need to keep up with the daily partial water changes (PWCs) to keep the ammonia and nitrItes to 0.25 or less, and the nitrAtes around 20ppm or less in order to do the best you can by your fish ATM.

Good luck and keep us posted!





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