Those are pretty cool, good for folks that take care of your tank when you leave on vacation.
Well, whether it's in the sediment(arguably the easiest of any "dosing method") like mud, garden soil or ADA AS, or liquid vs dry, as long as you have some method that you can stick with that works well for you and gets enough nutrients to the plants, that's really all that counts.
Plants need ferts, they can use them over a wide range.
At lower light values
, you have more flexibility with any method or location and you also get more out algae eaters per unit tank and more out of the fish waste contribution to the dosing.
Of course HLD prevails on the web
Some find daily works best for them, some 2-3x a week, some like dry powders and less measuring precision, some prefer more. For small tanks(generally less than 20 gal), dry dosing is impractical.
Daily works out well for folks that can also manage to feed their fish daily also
I feed my fish often, 2-3 x a day most days. So doing the same with the plants is easy as well.
If you want to be really precise, then use a micro pippetter, very accurate weighing scales, very pure RO post DI water, account for actual tank volume minus plants, rocks sediment etc, do not use sediment based nutrients(seems to work well in non CO2 systems, my tanks and ADA's tanks.......), measure what you feed your fish as well and nalyze it's % N and P and K etc.
Some things are worth while and really not a trade off.
Some are not.
Simply happening on a routine that makes you more consistent is really much more the issue for most than anything to do with the method in and of it's self. If you are on top of things and tend and tweak your tank more often, I'd hoped your get some results out of the added labor
I do. I do not bother testing the nutrients other than CO2, I do the water changes, prune, clean, dose liberally, feed fish and plants most days.
Horticulture is not an exact thing, and the goals of one person are often radically different from another. So discuss the trade offs.