What is a good target? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 04:21 AM
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What is a good target?

So in a high light, pressured co2 tank what is a good target for your water?
no3, no2, gh, kh, ph, etc?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 05:03 AM
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your answers here
https://www.plantedtank.net/articles.php?d


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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 10:59 AM
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I couldn't find any of the articals pertaining to GH and KH targets. I am doing as suggested for my micros and macros and still making considerable algae. Should I bring the dosing down slightly? The day after cleaning and dosing, a fine sheet of algae is on the glass. I brought the lighting period down, so hopefully that will help. What are the GH and KH targets for a heavily planted tank with 3 wpg?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 06:06 PM
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Again, there is no set answer. You need some hardness in your tanks to buffer against pH fluctuations when dosing CO2, but other than that, some plants and fish prefer hard water, some prefer soft. The trick is selecting plants and fish that thrive in the water conditions coming from your tap.





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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 06:15 PM
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Ok I"m about to do an order from bigals.

I am going to buy GH, KH, phosphate, and nitrate drops.
(i already have ammonia, ph, and nitrite drops)

Are these all test drops I need? All these the tests I need to run?

Anything else I need?

Iron test?

Let me know - i'm about to mack the purchase.
thanks
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
Again, there is no set answer. You need some hardness in your tanks to buffer against pH fluctuations when dosing CO2, but other than that, some plants and fish prefer hard water, some prefer soft. The trick is selecting plants and fish that thrive in the water conditions coming from your tap.
Agree that this is excellent advice. I learned the hard way that it really is not worth playing around with your water chemistry, easy to make a mess of the tank. Consistency is more important than specific numbers. If you want to get serious about testing you need pro level test kits like the Hach & LaMotte kits and they are expensive. The form of iron plants utilize is supposed to be one of the hardest things to test accurately for. You may be better off getting a copy of your local water quality report which will show you the basic parameters of your tap water. Then select plants and fish that do well within those parameters. Most plants and fish will simply adapt though making this a non-issue unless you decide to keep a particularly sensitive species.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 06:54 PM
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So do you not think it's worth buying the drops to get a reading on your water?
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 08:08 PM
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Not on iron. I'd check first to see if my LFS would check gH and kH- you don't need to check those that often either, unless you start noticing some dramatic pH fluctuations. Some people don't ever even check their pH very often- but I do since to me it's a good indicator that something else is off in the tank... Same with ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte.

Since you're just getting up and running, and your tank is going through all kinds of changes as it "settles in," you need to run these tests fairly often to get a good sense of what is "normal" for your tank. As you gain more experience, you will learn just from looking at your plants and animals when something is not right, and then these tests will be useful in helping you diagnose and correct many issues.





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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 08:24 PM
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hope you didn't buy those test kits yet...

You can go online and look up your city's water chemistry through your local water works..


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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 08:39 PM
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hope you didn't buy those test kits yet...

You can go online and look up your city's water chemistry through your local water works..
I agree- but disagree in that often what comes out of the tap is very very different that what originally went out from the plant; old plumbing, corrosion/leeching issues, etc in the possible miles of pipes between the plant and a home can make a huge difference.

I'm on well water, and depending on how deep my well is vs. my neighbor's could dramatically change our water, despite the fact that our houses are only 20 feet apart (theoretically, anyways- I've never actually checked their water! LOL)

So I'd still do the take water to the LFS route...





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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 09:54 PM
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hope you didn't buy those test kits yet...

You can go online and look up your city's water chemistry through your local water works..

Right, but don't you want to have those tests on-hand so you can check your water from time to time, and see how your dosing is effecting your water? and Make sure everything is doing ok?

Also what about the iron drops? Some people have said they like to use them to make sure their iron levels are where they need to be.

You don't suggest them?
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 11:44 PM
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nah, Iron isn't critical. It's a micro-nutrient. Just put it in when you remember to.. For me, I use (in order of number of use) nitrate, phosphate, Ammonia, KH test kits.. I don't bother with the other stuff.

You'll find out that after a while, getting the hang of this hobby, you don't test all that much.


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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 01:23 AM
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How do you test the potassium level in a tank so you know how much to add for your EI? How do you find the ppm? I can't find any drop checker to check the ppm. I have the nitrate and phosphate drop checker, but for the Potassium how does one get to the "target".
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 01:43 AM
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That's what I want to know...
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 01:53 AM
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Same priciple applies as in Tom Barr's answer on your other thread.





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