Extra Iron and PPS Pro - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Extra Iron and PPS Pro

I've recently overhauled my tank, and one of the changes I made was switching from EI dosing to PPS Pro. I'm trying to grow a lot of red plants, and previously with EI I always seemed to have too much nitrate no matter how I tried tweaking it, and my red plants were always mostly green. So far, PPS Pro has been working well for me, the nitrate is within the range I want. I can tell the red plants want to be red - they're certainly not green - but the red isn't as vibrant as I'd like. Might some added iron be the answer? I'm currently using Tropica Plant Nutrition Liquid for micros, but I also have some Flourish Iron. Does anyone have any advice as to a good amount to add that would fit well with the PPS Pro principles, or is there something else I should do instead? I have a standard 30 gallon tank, 3.2 WPG compact flourescent lighting, pressurized CO2 and Aquasoil substrate.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 10:23 PM
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You might try adding 1 to 2 ml 3x per week of Flourish Iron.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/wa...-regimes_.html

I think a better place for your question about PPS-Pro would be at APC. Here's a link to PPS:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...ysis-feedback/

I'm using this somewhat revised version of EI. For GH Booster I use Seachem's Equilibrium and for Trace I'm using Tropica's Plant Nutrition liquid that you are using. It's working very well.
http://www.barrreport.com/estimative...chy-folks.html

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 10:37 PM
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My reds have always seemed mighty fine:




Low NO3 is rather a simple modification to PPS or EI, you simply add less to your tank/solutions

Why is that difficult?

A good test kit and a good calibration will also help.

However, while I and Steve Dixton showed folks a decade ago the color variation due to lowering NO3, as well as myself showing evidence in research, see Dave Spencer (out here at the UCD lab), I've had little issues getting awesome coloration from my plants using EI and good GH's and traces.

These pics have high light also, but there's no mention of that when folks discuss this issue, even still, at 40% less light, I still had decent color, see the top photo.

Redder is not better either.
I'm not sure why many assume that and why there is such a quest for it as well. Many tanks have too much red.

You can also change a lot by simply changing the bulb types as well, what appears red to you... can help. Some like the 9325K+ 8800K+ 6700K ranges, I like the Tritons from the old days, but like the above lights as well, generally mixing a 10000K to 6700K range bulb or mix of the other two.

Point is, I'd not obsess too much over the lowering of NO3. You can reduce the dosing easy enough, EI was never meant to written in stone(I've never said it ever was) and folks with high NO3 in their tap do not assume they still need to add the suggested KNO3 dosing.

Common sense does apply no matter what method you chose.


Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Left C View Post
You might try adding 1 to 2 ml 3x per week of Flourish Iron.
Yes, but the issue in the color is unrelated to Fe.


Regards,
Tom Barr




Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
Yes, but the issue in the color is unrelated to Fe.


Regards,
Tom Barr
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Last edited by Left C; 02-12-2008 at 03:18 AM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-10-2008, 11:20 PM
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Here's a funny question: What's the name of that 'red' plant?

thank-you
Raymond


Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
My reds have always seemed mighty fine:




Low NO3 is rather a simple modification to PPS or EI, you simply add less to your tank/solutions

Why is that difficult?

A good test kit and a good calibration will also help.

However, while I and Steve Dixton showed folks a decade ago the color variation due to lowering NO3, as well as myself showing evidence in research, see Dave Spencer (out here at the UCD lab), I've had little issues getting awesome coloration from my plants using EI and good GH's and traces.

These pics have high light also, but there's no mention of that when folks discuss this issue, even still, at 40% less light, I still had decent color, see the top photo.

Redder is not better either.
I'm not sure why many assume that and why there is such a quest for it as well. Many tanks have too much red.

You can also change a lot by simply changing the bulb types as well, what appears red to you... can help. Some like the 9325K+ 8800K+ 6700K ranges, I like the Tritons from the old days, but like the above lights as well, generally mixing a 10000K to 6700K range bulb or mix of the other two.

Point is, I'd not obsess too much over the lowering of NO3. You can reduce the dosing easy enough, EI was never meant to written in stone(I've never said it ever was) and folks with high NO3 in their tap do not assume they still need to add the suggested KNO3 dosing.

Common sense does apply no matter what method you chose.


Regards,
Tom Barr
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-11-2008, 12:22 AM
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This is an assumption on my part. But I am pretty sure.

Top picture is Ludwigia arcuata
Bottom picture is Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'
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