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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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My 29 gallon Tank Questions

Tank Specs: (29 gal Planted) (Substrate - Flourite) (CO2 - Bottle/Rex Reg/In-line Diffuser) (Lights - Sun System Hood T-5 HO 24W x 4 = 3.31WPG)

Plants: Dwarf Hair-grass, Baby tears, Red Nesaea, Red Temple, Myriophyllum tuberculatum, Riccia, Hcrhemianthus Callitrichoides, Rotala Indica, Water Sprite, Moneywort, Cryp Wendtii Red and Green, Cabomba Caroliniana, Whorled Pennywort

Ferts: Greg Watson KNO3, K2SO4, Plantex CSM + B
Dosing: I'm using the Sears Conlin PMDD Formula 1ml per day

Water Change: Sundays 30 - 50%

I'm using the Seatest kits to test Nitrate and Phosphate and I'm using the API tests for KH, Ammonia, and Nitrite. PH is read off my PinPoint Controller

Tap Water Specs: PH (7.2) KH (143.2) Ammonia (0) Nitrite (0) Nitrate (0) Phosphate (0)

Water Parameters: Water: Temp (77F) PH (6.7) KH (143.2) CO2 (47.886 ppm) Ammonia (0) Nitrite (0) Nitrate (12-15 ppm) Phosphate (3 ppm)

Ferts: Greg Watson dry ferts: KNO3, K2SO4, Plantex CSM + B

Questions:
Dosing Ferts: I'm using the Sears Conlin PMDD Formula. 1: Has anyone used this PMDD? Is it good or are there any changes? 2: When doing water changes do I first dose KNO3 and K2SO4 to there proper levels and then the next day dose the PMDD? 3: What are the proper nitrate and phosphate levels I should look for? I have herd a few different numbers for each and would like the best solution.

CO2: My CO2 readings are above 30ppm, almost 50ppm. Is this bad or is more CO2 better. The fish are not gasping at all. Can you keep a higher CO2 level? Will this promote better growth?

CO2: I keep my CO2 on at night. If I turn it off and the PH rises from 6.7 to 7.2 are the fish going to be ok? If I did turn the CO2 off I would turn it back on 2 hours before the lights come back on.

Algae: I have some that kicks up every day. It collects on the fine leaves of the Combomba and Dwarf Hair-grass and Water Sprite. I have some pictures of this. I have not been able to identify this type of Algae either.

I have included some pictures and will keep this Tank Journal updated every week so everyone can see the progress. The first Picture is of the tank on (01 01 08) just after I installed the Rex Grigg Regulator, Reactor, CO2 bottle, and PinPoint Controller. The pictures after that are of the tank Today. I added some plants from Aquabotanic and did some rearranging. The pictures show about 3 weeks growth and some cutting. The Last pictures are of the Algae problem I'm having. I need help with an ID and a solution.

Thanks
I'm sorry about the long read and I hope you enjoy the journal as it progresses.
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Last edited by NBD925; 02-02-2008 at 04:23 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 06:02 PM
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Sears/Conlin is seriously old school, is there a particular reason you've decided to go with that method? I'm simply curious. I would suggest PPS-Pro as a 'modern day' alternative.

Don't exceed 30ppm CO2, it isn't particularly healthy for the fish, so more is not better in that regard. If you do not have a drop checker you'll want to purchase one, as the KH/PH relationship for CO2 levels can sometimes be upset by other buffers in the water -- leading to false readings.

pH fluctuations due to CO2 will not effect the fish in a negative manner, so no need to worry there. You can think of that pH change as "artificial" because you've not changed the carbonates that would otherwise be the natural cause for pH change.

I've had that sort of black slime myself, sort of a form of cyanobacteria as far as I can reckon, adjusting my CO2 to the correct level and correcting my fertilization program (as in following it properly) cleared it up.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Where can I find the PPS-Pro article or what the mix is?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I found a good article on PPS-PRO here: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums.../t-106810.html

And I have changed my lighting time from 12 hours a day to 8 hours a day. Any comments on this change?
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:25 PM
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There's a lot of PPS information on APC, that's sort of "home base" for that methodology. I use it on my low light, low tech 10 gallon. For my high light, high tech 75 gallon I use the EI method. If you're already doing 50% water changes weekly you might want to look into that too (sorry if it feels like a wild good chase sort of thing). PPS-Pro is more of a steady growth, slow turtle wins the race deal, EI is more of a drive your tank to perform at its fullest potential sort of program.

In following with PPS style dosing, reducing the light period is appropriate. Granted, I believe about 8 hours is right for that level of light regardless of fert plan.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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What are the levels I should be looking for. Nitrate Phosphate? I think I have decided to do my own EI method. Dose the proper Nitrate and Phosphate. Then dose the CSM+B daily. Any recomendations on the dose for the CSM+B.

Here is the plan: Do a water change: Dose the Nitrate to Xppm and Phosphate to Xppm and then just try to mantain this level throughout the Week. Dose the CSM+B daily at X ammount. I also have Leaf Zone (contains soluable Potash (K2O) %3.0 and Iron Fe 0.1%) and Flurish Iron, any sugestions on how to dose these in the mix?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2008, 07:57 PM
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You might want to look into PPS-Classic if you want to test and maintain levels... *chuckle*

I really prefer the whole "dump it in, change the water" approach of EI, I've found the general guidelines for EI dosing work well, though I do add more potassium, calcium, & magnesium because my water has zilch in terms of GH.

FWIW, I put in 10ppm of N, 1ppm of P, and ~10ppm K (+10 K at water change) 3X per week. My water has 1ppm of P in it from tap. CSM+B is fine to use for micros, I've never used it so I can't advise. I put in 15ml of Flourish 3X per week, that's for my 75 gallon.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-02-2008, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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In regards to testing the CO2 levels accurately, my tap water reads a KH of 143.2 ppm and my tested water at the middle of the week also read a KH of 143.2 ppm. Would this mean that there are no buffers interfering with CO2 readings made by using the PH KH charts?

Do Phosphates affect the water KH? If so I have noticed this because my phosphates were high 3 weeks ago, off the charts, and I was getting readings of KH at about 179ppm. After a few water changes 161ppm. As I did more water changes the phosphates went down. I have noticed the KH in the tank has now meet the KH of my tap water.

More Questions:

Dosing Ferts: I am dosing 10ppm of Nitrate, 1ppm of Phosphate. This is where my knowledge stops. I am having a hard time figuring out how much Potassium I am dosing. I have some Potassium in the form of Leaf Zone it's got 3.0% Soluble Potash and 0.1% Chelated Iron (Fe) and it tells me to dose 5ml per ten gallons. How do I achieve the levels I need. I think the levels are 10ppm - 15ppm ?????

Dosing Ferts: I am dosing CSM+B I have made a mix of 1 tablespoon to 500ml of water. How much do I need to put in per day? Or is my mix to watered down?

CO2: 15ppm or 30ppm I have herd both of these but would like some opinion on this.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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In regards to testing the CO2 levels accurately, my tap water reads a KH of 143.2 ppm and my tank water at the middle of the week also read a KH of 143.2 ppm. Would this mean that there are no buffers interfering with the KH, that would interfere with CO2 readings made using the PH / KH charts?

Do Phosphates affect the water KH? If so I have noticed this because my phosphates were high 3 weeks ago, off the charts, and I was getting readings of KH at about 179ppm. After a few water changes 161ppm. As I did more water changes the phosphates went down. I have noticed the KH in the tank has now meet the KH of my tap water.

CO2: 15ppm or 30ppm I have herd both of these but would like some opinion on this.
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