New CO2 build - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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New CO2 build

Hey guys! After stalking the forum for a long time. I decided to do a pressurized CO2 system. I started off with a 12 gallon fluval edge with 2 corkscrew Val's, 2 patches of microsword, and planted a bunch of DHG. I originally had a DIY co2 system, but just upgraded to a paintball tank system. I have a couple questions that I hope the more experienced posters can answer. I'm running the stock lights plus I added a flu all full spectrum plant light. I have my co2 and lights on timers. The co2 comes on at 7am, and the lights come on at 8. The co2 turns off at 9pm and the lights at 10pm. The drop checker registers borderline yellow, but the fish don't seem too bothered. Question 1, should I turn the co2 up a little more? Question 2, does the photoperiod seem too long? So far, the algae I had in the tank cleared up, and the plants seem to be responding well, although slowly. Also, should I start introducing any new ferts? I have a group of 6 Tiger Barbs, that seem to fertilize pretty well. My ph is just under 7, and everything else is coming in at zeros using the API test kit. Any input would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 01:39 AM
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At what point in the photoperiod do reach that color on your DC? You don't need more than 8-10hrs of light and 14hrs is excessive and just asking for algae problems. I would like to recommend something for ferts but I don't know much about your light. Are your plants doing well?

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 02:35 AM
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"Question 1, should I turn the co2 up a little more? Question 2, does the photoperiod seem too long?"

Question #1. no

Question #2. no

Long version ,
Your algae has gone away, plants are flourishing . The only thing I would recommend is less CO2. Y? Ive seen what happens when a tank is overdosed with CO2 dead fish...
But really, boardering yellow should be fine. Ive kept my tanks at that level before just fine.

Sounds like you have everything in balance here. Thats most of the work! I wouldn't change a thing.

Oh yeah, half my plant growing lights click on at 9am along with CO2, and click off at 9pm. The other half of the lights click on at 10am and off at 10pm . Thats 13 hrs a day for my 140. In my 30 and 9.5 all the lights come on at 9am and off at 10pm...

140 gallon FW planted
29 gallon FW planted
17 gallon FW planted
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 02:52 AM
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Drop checkers aren't the most reliable way to monitor Co2. Here's a pic of what mine looks like right now...

It's as yellow as it gets and all the fish are absolutely fine. This can be a result of the solution used. The solution in mine happens to be Fluval solution which should be accurate right out of the bottle but I'd argue it's not. Just watch the fish and their behaviors...
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-13-2014, 08:58 PM
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...everything else is coming in at zeros...
I assume you mean NH3/NH4, NO2, NO3.
Do you have GH test?

This means the plants are using all the nitrogen you are adding to the tank. If you are adding this in the form of fish food, then the plants are also probably using all the available P and pretty much all the traces.
Fish food does not supply enough K, Fe or Ca.

I would start adding fertilizer, knowing that slow growing plants is the first sign of deficiency.
The first thing that jumps out is deficiency in the very things fish food does not supply:
K, Fe.
The next thing would be a deficiency in the things fish food supplies, but at too low a level for this tank:
N, P, traces.

Go slow with adding ferts, perhaps using tablets to keep the fertilizer out of the water column.
As you add the nutrients that are lacking the plants will grow faster until they reach a point of some other deficiency.
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