HELP: ID plant defecit ? + pictures included - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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Smile HELP: ID plant defecit ? + pictures included

Hello Guys,

i started with Co2 a while ago and slowly everything goes down hill???

as you can see in the pics Amazon sword doubled in size but older leaves turn transparent.. 2 days ago a new good looking leave just came off.
Anubias new growth leaves are smaller and not fully opening.. one Anubias slit like a Y and new growth just turned yellow transparent.
some leaves have like a whole on the side both amazon and Anubias also so anubias leaves have green spots.
i Had a bunch off Java moss all died off..
rotala, giant anubias, giant vals all not doing well right now...

need help
please check out the pics


Tank specs:
50G 4ft heavy planted tank with easy to keep plants, swords , vals, rotala, java fern, hydrophilia etc...

CO2:
Fluval 88g co2 with 1bouble/2sec

water specs:
day time about PH 6.8
Night about 7.0
NO3 - 0 , dKH 4-5, dGH 10

Lights:
7.5hours
Samsung/Epistar Lights are in total 65W:
(3x 3FT LED light bars : White 6500k 450nm CRi 87%, royal Blue 455nm and full spectrum/tri-color red/blue/green)
I have no idea about PAR or combine light spectrum

Ferts:
Flourish 2x a week, says 5ml for 200L but i dose 10ml
Iron i dose once a week 5ml

In Gravel:
Duplarit K balls in gravel. few months now
Just added 1 day ago, few Flourish Tabs

Salts:
i used regular rock salt

not sure if the tabs will do the difference.
need help please point me in the right directly whats wrong here
Thank you =)
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 02:31 AM
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.....where are the included pictures

~Sam

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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.....where are the included pictures
Just updated =) thanks for the reminder
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 04:39 PM
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That's not a deficiency, that's green spot algae or GSA. I think it's usually linked to low phosphates. It normally grows on the leaves of slow growing plants like anubias and on the glass. That amazon sword looks like maybe potassium or nitrate deficiency. Did it start as tiny holes in the leaves?

~Sam

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 05:55 PM
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http://www.aquariumplants.com/Bracki...lants_s/22.htm
This list has plants that can live/w salt in the water. If you have any plants not on the list, you will not be doing them any favors to keep them in water that has salt.
The anubias and probably a couple of other plants are slow growing and they will get algae on the leaves if there is too much light just because the leaves last longer than on fast growing plants. The plants looked good till you added the CO2 because they were not growing fast. That is not much CO2 but still it speeds up the growth and there is not any balance in the ferts. I don't know what those Duplant K balls have but the Root tabs you have are incomplete. Read a few threads on the Ferts section looking for any that say a fert deficiency. The swords are eating themselves at the older leaves to grow the newer ones due to lack of the needed ferts.
Stopping the CO2 until you have the correct ferts will help. But it won't help the algae on the anubias. Only less light will help that. But you can just move them under some other plants so they get at least a little shade. You might need to bring down the amount of light but investigate the fert section first. You might ask on there "are Osmocoat+ tabs complete ferts" because they are cheap and someone on here sells them. That is a fairly high amount of light. I don't know if it is too high though.

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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Trigger View Post
That's not a deficiency, that's green spot algae or GSA. I think it's usually linked to low phosphates. It normally grows on the leaves of slow growing plants like anubias and on the glass. That amazon sword looks like maybe potassium or nitrate deficiency. Did it start as tiny holes in the leaves?
yes also have some on the glass front and back and under lights/lids ..

Amazon, i have to monitor how that rotting starts..
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 01:17 AM
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yes also have some on the glass front and back and under lights/lids ..

Amazon, i have to monitor how that rotting starts..
Yeah definitely watch them closely. Might want to add some root tabs under them. Could help

~Sam

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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i noticed today older crypt leaves and hydrophillia leaves have wholes now, these wholes formed in the last 2 days.. also my giant val losing old leaves quick , whole java moss and regular val are gone.

-yes added tabs few days ago,
-also adjusted the lights to 6h a day.

1 do you think i should stop adding salts?
2 Just getting the light down to 6 hours for now, will that alone give me better growth/ solving the problem?
or
do need to do changes, like getting a test kit for po4 and get my self PPS-PRO?

3) i started feeding more to get the No3 up abit good idea or not?
4)i used to have 75% rain water in my tanks.. not anymore. could i add abit of rain water to top up Po4 naturally for now or not good ?

Thanks for all the help
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 01:41 PM
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Salt. That's your problem right there. I've never have or have had to add salt to any of my planted tanks ever. Why do you add salt? Stop adding salt forever

~Sam

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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Salt. That's your problem right there. I've never have or have had to add salt to any of my planted tanks ever. Why do you add salt? Stop adding salt forever
Salts:
i use regular rock salt

LFS store told me to use aquarium salt ´Salts helps the fish build up the immune system´ and putting trace in to the tank´ so i did that, later on a breeder told me to use rock salt/sea salt ´ the rock salt will reduce the non-beneficial bacteria in the tank preventing bacteria blooms´
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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 09:25 PM
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There is no need for salt. Tropical fish can live and stay immune-strong without it, there's just no need for it.. unless you want brackish and marine conditions. So yeah, skip the salt. Like Trigger said, it's likely one the main problems, causes of your plant problems too besides algae..

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:38 PM
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There is no need for salt. Tropical fish can live and stay immune-strong without it, there's just no need for it.. unless you want brackish and marine conditions. So yeah, skip the salt. Like Trigger said, it's likely one the main problems, causes of your plant problems too besides algae..
Exactly. Salt is not your solution. Getting your ferts, co2 and lighting is balance is.

~Sam

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:39 PM
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As mentioned stop the salt. If by flourish you mean flourish comprehensive then you are likely deficient in potassium, phosphate and nitrogen. Comprehensive is a trace mix. It has very little NPK.
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:52 PM
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To sum up what everyone else has said:

1) Stop using salt
2) increase co2. 1/2 a bub a second is too low. look for a daytime ph drop of 1.0 from night
3) Get ferts and dose NPK per the EI method
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:58 PM
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To sum up what everyone else has said:

1) Stop using salt
2) increase co2. 1/2 a bub a second is too low. look for a daytime ph drop of 1.0 from night
3) Get ferts and dose NPK per the EI method
I'd would highly advise against dosing EI unless you're running pressurized co2 and high light. That's an algae disaster just waiting to happen.

~Sam

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