Dialing in my CO2. Rudimentary help? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Dialing in my CO2. Rudimentary help?

I've been having my CO2 way too high it seems because by doing tests to find KH and pH I've found my CO2 has been around 47 ppm. The bps was around 5 for 47 ppm, now its down to around 1.5 bps. Now it is 33 ppm? Too much?

I've been using this online calculator rather than using a table: http://www.fishfriend.com/aquarium_co2_calculator.html. I measure how many drops it takes to get the solution to turn yellow, this is correct? Some times it changes to a color between blue and yellow so I say its a 1/2 of a degree. Is this correct?

Is this accurate? Is the bps really not proportional to the CO2 ppm? Am I doing everything right to obtain 30 ppm CO2 (My goal)?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post
I measure how many drops it takes to get the solution to turn yellow, this is correct? Some times it changes to a color between blue and yellow so I say its a 1/2 of a degree. Is this correct?
Usually yellow indicates high CO2, bue low CO2 and green the sweet spot if you want to call it that. I wouldn't relie solely on a drop checker they are not very accurate. They can be used as a general guideline but that is about it. Most people just gas it until they see stress in their fish and then back off. Since I have an Apex with a pH probe I am able to gauge it by pH with help from a drop checker. Having a pH controller helps a lot.

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Is this accurate? Is the bps really not proportional to the CO2 ppm?
No, BPS has no proportion to the level of CO2 in your tank.


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Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post
Am I doing everything right to obtain 30 ppm CO2 (My goal)?
30 PPM is the target you are looking to be at. As far as getting there it will take some dialing it in and is a process. Noting you can do to set and forgot in just a day. Will take a couple weeks to dial it in to find that sweet spot.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replying. You are confused about the solution turning yellow. That was a KH test not a CO2 indication test. I'm just wondering if its accurate to use KH tests and pH tests to calculate CO2 ppm?

I've taken note to the answers you gave. Thanks.

Tank Specifications:

Spoiler
Tank: Aqueon 38 Gallon Filter: Eheim 2215 Heater: Hydor Inline 200w Substrate: ADA Amazonia, ADA Powersand Special
Lights: Odyssea 4x T5HO Fixture, 2 Giesemann Aquaflora, 2 Giesemann Midday. 156w Total. 7.5 HR/day
Stocking: 4 Garra Flavatra, 6 Otocinclus Affinis, 25 Paracheirodon Simulans, 1 Carinotetraodon Travancoricus
CO2: 5 lb tank, GLA Inline diffuser. 2 BPS (currently) UV Sterilizer: Aquatop 10w Powerhead: Rio Plus 50 (69 GPH)
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 02:07 PM
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The CO2 concentration needed to obtain maximal growth is different for every aquarium. The amount of CO2 delivered per second (bps) to obtain adequate levels changes from tank to tank. There are many factors that alter CO2 concentrations not to mention the overall need for CO2 by plants in a given tank.

Rather than watching a PH meter or drop checker watch your fish. Increase CO2 output in small amounts every couple of days until you see signs of stress. Then return to the output setting before stress was noticed. That will be the critical point where more CO2 is detrimental. Now you can look at a PH meter or drop checker to use as a GENERAL guide. Neither are perfectly accurate.

Things can happen quickly running a tank with a CO2 concentration that close to critical. Many prefer to reduce CO2 even more until plants suffer or algae appears then increase it just above that point. This balancing act is not a set it and forget it thing. CO2 will always require tweaking.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-06-2014, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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The CO2 concentration needed to obtain maximal growth is different for every aquarium. The amount of CO2 delivered per second (bps) to obtain adequate levels changes from tank to tank. There are many factors that alter CO2 concentrations not to mention the overall need for CO2 by plants in a given tank.

Rather than watching a PH meter or drop checker watch your fish. Increase CO2 output in small amounts every couple of days until you see signs of stress. Then return to the output setting before stress was noticed. That will be the critical point where more CO2 is detrimental. Now you can look at a PH meter or drop checker to use as a GENERAL guide. Neither are perfectly accurate.

Things can happen quickly running a tank with a CO2 concentration that close to critical. Many prefer to reduce CO2 even more until plants suffer or algae appears then increase it just above that point. This balancing act is not a set it and forget it thing. CO2 will always require tweaking.
Thanks for the reply, I read it the day you posted but I was on vacation. Thanks for the insight.

Tank Specifications:

Spoiler
Tank: Aqueon 38 Gallon Filter: Eheim 2215 Heater: Hydor Inline 200w Substrate: ADA Amazonia, ADA Powersand Special
Lights: Odyssea 4x T5HO Fixture, 2 Giesemann Aquaflora, 2 Giesemann Midday. 156w Total. 7.5 HR/day
Stocking: 4 Garra Flavatra, 6 Otocinclus Affinis, 25 Paracheirodon Simulans, 1 Carinotetraodon Travancoricus
CO2: 5 lb tank, GLA Inline diffuser. 2 BPS (currently) UV Sterilizer: Aquatop 10w Powerhead: Rio Plus 50 (69 GPH)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post
Thanks for replying. You are confused about the solution turning yellow. That was a KH test not a CO2 indication test. I'm just wondering if its accurate to use KH tests and pH tests to calculate CO2 ppm?
Yes and no, you won't get instant results as the solution needs to be submersed in the water for a couple hours.

To measure CO2 in the aquarium, you need to have an accurate measurement of KH and pH. With a known value of KH / carbonate hardness in the indicator solution, the color of the solution will turn green when the optimal concentration of 30 ppm of CO2 is achieved in the aquarium water. A yellow or blue color indicates too much or too little CO2 in the water, respectively.

That is why I said "Usually" yellow indicates high CO2, blue low CO2 and green the sweet spot if you want to call it that when it is tested properly.

You can read more about it from the link.

http://blog.greenleafaquariums.com/2...nce-behind-it/


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Texan78 View Post
Yes and no, you won't get instant results as the solution needs to be submersed in the water for a couple hours.

To measure CO2 in the aquarium, you need to have an accurate measurement of KH and pH. With a known value of KH / carbonate hardness in the indicator solution, the color of the solution will turn green when the optimal concentration of 30 ppm of CO2 is achieved in the aquarium water. A yellow or blue color indicates too much or too little CO2 in the water, respectively.

That is why I said "Usually" yellow indicates high CO2, blue low CO2 and green the sweet spot if you want to call it that when it is tested properly.

You can read more about it from the link.

http://blog.greenleafaquariums.com/2...nce-behind-it/
I bought one of those indicators but somehow I lost the suction cup for the side of my tank! I have everything else...\

What I've been using to test my KH and GH is this: http://www.apifishcare.com/product.p...7#.Ust4__RDvis

Tank Specifications:

Spoiler
Tank: Aqueon 38 Gallon Filter: Eheim 2215 Heater: Hydor Inline 200w Substrate: ADA Amazonia, ADA Powersand Special
Lights: Odyssea 4x T5HO Fixture, 2 Giesemann Aquaflora, 2 Giesemann Midday. 156w Total. 7.5 HR/day
Stocking: 4 Garra Flavatra, 6 Otocinclus Affinis, 25 Paracheirodon Simulans, 1 Carinotetraodon Travancoricus
CO2: 5 lb tank, GLA Inline diffuser. 2 BPS (currently) UV Sterilizer: Aquatop 10w Powerhead: Rio Plus 50 (69 GPH)
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