any ideas? - The Planted Tank Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
here are my tank test results .... all tests are done with fresh jbl test kits ... pH 6.6 ..... Total Hardness 5 ..... Carbonate Hardness 3 ..... (not sure of the correct abbreviations for these values) ....

Ammmonium 0.0ppm , Nitrites 0.5ppm , Nitrates 0.0ppm ..... Phosphate 10+ ppm ..... Iron 0.4ppm

i think this means that i have very soft water ...... my pH changes by approx 0.2 am vs pm ( it is a pressurized system that switches off when the lights go out ) ie it is usually 6.6 - 6.8 in am .... and by pm is 6.8 - 7.0 ...( i think once it might have measured 7.2 in pm .... i gotta start writing this stuff down ...

so my questions are ...

would i be better to ditch the solenoid timer and leave the co2 going 24/7 .... or would i be better to attach a pH meter to maintain a very constant co2 level ..... but with my low pH / soft h2o would this mean that the co2 would never be on??

do i need to address the water hardness at all ....how can i increase hardness without always needing to add chemicals to my h2o ... isnt that a bit pointless ... always battling the "natural"

what could be causing the high po4 .... the tank has been running as a planted tank for about 8 weeks ... it had no fish at all until a few days ago when i added 2 SAE ... about 2 weeks ago i switched off the co2 ... was going away and worried about my bottle running out .... also missed my weekly 25% h2o change for the 12 days that i was away ....it seems to me that i got a really bad greenwater bloom about that time ... i have been unable to overcome the greenwater as yet ... altho i have tried a lot of the remedies suggested here ... somehow i suspect its connected to either the hardness issue or the po4 ....

any ideas about these parameteres and how i can "correct" them ... its getting really frustrating

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 01:47 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
WfxXx's Avatar
 
PTrader: (125/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 3,037
your ph is fine, you need to up your nitrates to 10ppm and get your phosphates at 0.5 ppm do a weekly 50% water change and keep those perims in check, the green water with vanish, you can up your kh with baking soda 4 or 5 dkh is a ideal range.
WfxXx is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 02:25 PM
Are these real?
 
Wasserpest's Avatar
 
PTrader: (192/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 15,609
Aussie,

I understand your concern about not wanting to add any chemicals to your tank. But keep in mind that water contains a lot of chemicals already, and some slight adjustments sometimes make all the difference.

Als W suggested, you might want to get your kH up to around 5. The ideal pH then will be 6.8 to 7.0. That should stabilize things a bit.

Regarding the green water... I am not sure if that Phosphate reading is correct. I have never seen a value that high. Is your water company adding that? This is something you will need to address, if it is really that high. There are some phosphate removing chemicals :? available, not sure how expensive that would be in the long run. Or you could look into RO/DI water, although it would be expensive and a hassle too. But first, I would do a cross-check with another test kit.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Wasserpest is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
hi all ....


Thanks for the replies ... much obliged!

so if i am understanding the genaral drift of the replies correctly ....

my pH is ok .... so don't change or do anything different in regard to pH yet ...but... is it "normal to have such a swing btw day and night? .... should i leave it on 24/7 rather than switch it off at night to reduce that swing ?

i also need to get the carbonate hardness up to about 4 or 5 (by adding some "baking soda" ??) .... will try that and let you know how it goes ...

how do i get nitrates up ..... do i need to add fish to do that.... i just didn't want to add too many fish until i had sorrted out the water parameters ( and hopefully eliminated the GW ) ...

i will recheck my phosphate levels.... if they are still reading the same i will get another (diff brand) test kit wed am and retest again and let you know the results .... it will be an interesting experiment to see how close they are ....i will also test my water as it comes out of the tap ... i have added a foam filter thing into my canister that is meant to absorb phosphate ... but it hasn't made any difference after two days .....

( the reason that i'm not exactly sure of my Ph range is because my test kit and my pH meter ALWAYS give diff results ... usually vary by 0.2 ... occassionally by 0.4 !!!! ....... i don't think that the meter is 100% reliable ... when i check it 2-3 days after recalibrating it it can be off by 0.2-0.4 again! ... and i take pretty good care of it ! ... confusing to say the least! )

thanks again for all your help ... i kind of feel that if i can just get these water parameters right then i can tackle the greenwater with some chance of success ... maybe doing that will even geet rid opf it altiogether ... again ... your help if greatly appreciated ... the lfs just said ... thats why they don't push planted tanks ... cause people always just end up with algae problems ... but i think thats a bit "defeatist"

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 12:54 AM
Are these real?
 
Wasserpest's Avatar
 
PTrader: (192/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 15,609
Yes, increasing the kH a little will reduce the pH swings. If your phosphate levels are really that high, the good old ph/kH chart to determine CO2 levels will be out of whack. I hope someone that deals with this kind of water can chime in...
You can add NO3 via KNO3, which is used as a fertilizer, for example.

Let us know how the PO4 results come out... this could have the largest impact in your algae battle.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Wasserpest is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
kool .... so the fish shop sells kno3 ? what is its trade name and where do i get it ? .... thanks for that info wasserpest ... finally feel like i'm making progress ... will post the new test results in about 6 hours when i finish work and get home .... want to lick this beast!!!

ps. ....it's kind of funny being on the other side of the world ..... i guess most of you will be asleep by then ..except for wasserpest and r griggs who NEVER seem to sleep .... how you guys that post regular keep up with all these posts is absolutely amaaazzzing !

regards
aussie tanker






;

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 03:09 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Rex Grigg's Avatar
 
PTrader: (65/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland Orygun
Posts: 9,600
I doubt your fish store sells KNO3. There is no real trade name. It's called potassium nitrate or Salt Peter. As to where to get it well I can't help much there. In some areas a good drug store will carry it. In other areas it's almost impossible to find. But since I love using Google I found you a dealer.

http://www.hydroponics.webcentral.com.au/
Rex Grigg is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 03:15 AM
Are these real?
 
Wasserpest's Avatar
 
PTrader: (192/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 15,609
Hehe, we don't have a life!

Unfortunately you will probably not find any KNO3 in a pet store, maybe in a really advanced one? When I mentioned fertilizer, I was thinking of nurseries, agricultural supplies, hydroponics stores, and such. Over here, it is also used as stump remover, however one needs to be careful, since to remove stumps you don't need a very pure grade, and there could be stuff in it that kills anything living... so be warned.

I am a little hesitant to recommend dosing Nitrate in a tank that is going through a green water episode. You should get that PO4 down first, if it is really that high...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Wasserpest is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
rex .... you are a wizard ....

you find a supplier in a country 1000's of miles away ..... well done and thanks ..


there is a huge plant nursury place close by ....now that i know what i'm looking for ... i think that they will probably sell "salt peter " ....i will try there first ... and if no luck i will contact the place that you have suggested .....

.....i used the link you provided and downloaded their catalogue .... had a good look at it ....it seems that some of the stuff that they use is similiar to the types of products that we use..... ie ... lights .... ph meters ( their list price is approx $60 au cmpd to the $120 au that i paid for mine at the lfs ..... i wonder how different they are to justify that price difference! ) ..... i notice that they have co2 systems as well ..... i will definately call them ......

now if they only sold "eco-complete" ..... life would be soooo wonderful .. :P


thanks again for the help

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
Wasserpest ... hi again ....

here are some more test results ......i added 4 level teaspoons of "baking soda" at noon today ...... then at 10pm today tests results were as follows

pH: 7.1 ...total hardness GH: 5 ... carbonate hardness KH: 8 ..... all other tests inc phosphate are the same as prev reported ....... i am a bit puzzled as to why the total hardness didn't change ... but the carbonate hardness did ....and i think that this hardness change has "pushed up" or stabilized my pH .... is that correct ....

and altho there has been no change to the gw yet i think that the increase in pH, GH & KH are positive steps in the right direction .....


i think i am just starting too see some small "crystal " deposits on the broad leaves of the anubias plant .... i saw several posts on this prev ... i didn't quite understand all the technical details, but it seems it's some type of calcium or carbonate pptn .....

i actually noticed this just before i got the bad dose of greenwater several weeks ago ..... it seemed like a dust ... covered the anuibus leaves quite heavily ...i washed it off repeatedly ... thinking that it was dust from the gravel ... and it just kept on coming back ... thats when i read the posts about the (calcium ???) pptn ... and so turned off my co2 unit thinking that it was too high (approx 60 bubbles per minute) ... the "dust" then cleared .... but then i got the gw a few days later ... i didn't connect them until i saw what looks like the beginnings of the "dust" re-appearing today ... could that be relevant ... or just coincidence :?

now ... how do i get those phosphate levels down ...even tho' the testing results tonight were consistent with the prev levels ... i will get a diff test kit tommorrow and retest ....

btw ... i also ran some tests on my tapwater ...maybe this info is relevant .... these are after 12 hours in a bottle ... ( pH also gve the same result straight out of the tap) .....

ph:8.5 ....total hardness GH: 6 .... carbonate hardness KH: 4 ... PO4: 0.0ppm ..... i think that means that my water is alkaline and very soft , ( and the source of PO4 isn't in the tap water to start ) ... is that a "usual" combination?

thanks for all the imput ... i feel that i have made a step fwd thanks to everyones help .... i feel encouraged ..... any ideas on how to decrease the PO4 .... what could be sending it so high?

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 04:04 PM
Are these real?
 
Wasserpest's Avatar
 
PTrader: (192/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 15,609
Hi Aussie,

Looking good. Baking soda does increase the GH as well, but regular testkits don't measure it. Looks like things are going the right way.

If your tapwater PO4 is 0, and in your tank 10 ppm, something is really wrong in your tank, but lots and lots of water changes should bring that down to "good" levels, which hopefully will take care of your green water too. Maybe a few days of 30% water changes? You would want to bring that down to 0.5-1 ppm, and slowly increase the Nitrates to 5-10 ppm, depending on how much light and plants you have in there.

Not sure about the dust... I have something similar on my sword leaves, I think it is calcium carbonate, but I thought it would be caused by insufficient CO2 levels, but you say it went away when you turned off the CO2... interesting. So many things we don't know yet!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Wasserpest is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 04:49 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
WfxXx's Avatar
 
PTrader: (125/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 3,037
If your tap water is clear of phosphates do plenty of water changes until it recede's..
Your on the right track,

If I may throw a link at you for you to read, some may agree some may not, but read it as many times as it takes till you understand the concept, it really works and Mr Barr is right on track, and he amalgamates it perfectly. plus you reading it, will help with alot of your questions, then you can pass on what you have learned

http://www.sfbaaps.com/reference/barr_02_01.shtml

Cheers!
WfxXx is offline  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-04-2004, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
hi all ..... have just redone some tests .....

here are the latest results.....using a hagen test kit .... i could not find a store with any of the other test kits mentioned ......

testing for phosphates .....tapwater is 0.0mg/l and the tank is 2.5mg/l....( not sure if thats the same as ppm .... but if it is then wasserpest was spot on ....the jbl test kit was waaaay off the mark ) .......as i understand it, this is still high ... but not a total disaster .... to get this under control should i just start doing water changes ..... and if so what frequency .... i was kind of thinking 33% ever second day until the phosphate levels drop to about 0.2mg/l... (and continuing until the greenwater is gone? ) .... any other suggestions ?

i am still very curious as to how the phosphate levels got so high ... and just hoping that it doesnt repeat again ... wish i knew the cause ... i would feel more "under control" .....

anyway ... 1 step at a time ....

should i now start dosing with the nitrates .... i checked the huge plant nursery nearby for salt peter... much too my surprise they dont sell it ... so i will use the mail order firm suggested by rex .... it will take a few days to get here .... any ideas on what quantity to start adding ... and how often ??? ... advice here is appreciated

also .... in regard to my KH & GH .... with the addition of the baking soda the KH has risen to 8KH ... do i need to also increase the GH ... how can i do that .... it didnt seem to change at all with the baking soda .... on the link supplied by WfxXx ( thanks very much .... it is "just what the doctor ordered" ... he makes it sound so simple .... i will reread it several times )....... tom barr says
Quote:
GH 2-8 degrees Add Sea Chem's Equilibrium to raise. Or CaCO3 for both KH and GH.
..... what is CaCo3 ..... the lfs didnt have the seachem equilibrium....

finally ... when i do water changes ... esp large ones ... should i put the baking soda into each bucket before adding it to the tank ... or just pop it into the tank once i have replenished it ???

again ... thanks for the help ... i think we are starting to get somewhere ...

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-04-2004, 02:38 PM
Are these real?
 
Wasserpest's Avatar
 
PTrader: (192/100%)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 15,609
Milligram per liter (there are 1 million of them in a liter) and ppm (parts per million) is the same for our purposes.

2.5 mg/l or ppm is still high, but not that much out of whack. What has been your water change schedule in the past? How many fishes do you keep in how many gallons of water? What/how much/how often do you feed?

Regarding water changes, the usual recommendation is to do 25 to 50% weekly, depending on how high light, high fertilizer dosing you consider your tank. Doing a few water changes of 33% every other day as you suggest would be excellent to bring down the phosphate levels.

I would dissolve the amount of baking soda that you need in water, and add it to the tank gradually as the water change is carried out.

Once the PO4 levels have stabilized around 0.5 ppm, I would start to raise the NO3 levels slowly to 5 ppm.

This, together with enough light and CO2, should give your plants great conditions to help reducing PO4 and suppress algae, including green water!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Wasserpest is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2004, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 113
Thanks all ....

it seems like the phosphate levels are dropping slowly ...... they are now down to somewhere btwn 1.5 and 2.0 ppm according to the hagen test results ..... and guess what ..... it also looks like the greenwater is "disappearing " as the phosphate levels drop.. i am almost beside myself with excitement ....

i have not added any nutrients at all at this stage ... will wait until the p04 level is about 0.5 as per wasserpests suggestion ..... [b]im still very puzzled as to how the phosphate levels got so high in the first place ..../b]

wasserpest asked in his prev post ...

Quote:
2.5 mg/l or ppm is still high, but not that much out of whack. What has been your water change schedule in the past? How many fishes do you keep in how many gallons of water? What/how much/how often do you feed?

wasserpest ... some answers for you to consider......


Quote:
.... the tank has been running as a planted tank for about 8 weeks ... it had no fish at all until a few days ago when i added 2 SAE ... about 2 weeks ago i switched off the co2 ... was going away and worried about my bottle running out .... also missed my weekly 25% h2o change for the 12 days that i was away ....it seems to me that i got a really bad greenwater bloom about that time ... i have been unable to overcome the greenwater as yet ... altho i have tried a lot of the remedies suggested here ... somehow i suspect its connected to either the hardness issue or the po4 ....
so the high po4 level can't be from too much feeding ..... cause it strarted way before there were any fish in there! ... any ideas on the source? .... i am concerned that unless i can identify it .... it may come back

anyway ... i will continue to do 33% water changes ever second day now until the gw is all gone ..... and /or the po4 drops to 0.5 ppm ... i will order the salt peter as per rex griggs link .... it will take a few days to arrive ..... hopefully by then the gw should have cleared .... what would a reasonable purchase quantity of this gear ... and how much should i add initiallt ... a small pinch ? ..... a teaspoon ?... tablespoon? .....

i feel that everbody's input has really helped me to solve a big problem in my tank that i was really struggling with .... and getting very discouraged.... i also feel that i have learnt a lot from the information links provided ... and from the info in the replies themselves ... i have reread each of the replies several times ... its funny how its easy to miss very small, but important tips/concepts etc ... rereading them helps it to settle in your mind .... there is sooo much to learn ... i have greatly appreciated the time that has been given by all

i will continue to monitor and test .... over the next week ...as a matter of completeness i will let everyone know how its going..... hopefully like a kind of final "progress report" ....

again .... thanks all

regards
aussietanker

33 US G (125L) ------ Aqua-One 620 Tall - L: 24" (60cm), W: 14" (36cm), D: 24" (60cm) ; Modified Hood with 2 x GE 55W 21" AquaRays (9325 K) under AH Supply Reflectors; Fluval 304 Canister Filter;Substrate = 2" JBL AquaBasis Plus nutrient ground cover + 2" of 50% mix of Flourite & Onxy Sand ; JBL ProFlora Pressurized CO2 + REXX DIY CO2 Reactor; Hydor 300W Inline Heater @ 26C/79F;Fish = 2 x SAE; 2 x Clown Loaches; 15 x Cardinal Tetras; 2 x Orange Angels
AussieTanker is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need centerpiece ideas for a 29 Gallon plantastic28 General Planted Tank Discussion 10 02-22-2009 04:02 AM
Some tank ideas... kinda long. her209 General Planted Tank Discussion 3 05-08-2004 06:57 PM
Fish Ideas... Come one Come All! mattrmiller Fish 28 10-05-2003 02:32 AM
old 150 gallon tank w/crack - need ideas guppygal General Planted Tank Discussion 5 08-27-2003 07:00 PM
10 gallon fish and plant ideas... danpbmx General Planted Tank Discussion 12 02-09-2003 05:36 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome