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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Should I be concerned?



My ph levels usually run from 6.8 to 7.1. Lost two phantom plecos last night. In checking all my levels I found my ph to be 6.5 with a kH of 4.0 ppm. This equates to a CO2 level (DIY) of 37.9. I am fighting a bout of Ich right now, so not sure if the Ich or high CO2 levels or both did them in.

Do I need to be concerned about my CO2? Should I remove it temporarily? Will this return my CO2 levels to normal with or without a water change?

Thanks for your input in advance!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey, thanks for all the input! Find it hard to believe nobody had any helpful suggestions?!?!?!?!

Well, had to deal with it myself. For those interested I removed the DIY CO2 for the night and the ph came back up to 6.8 and the CO2 went down to 13.5.

So, problem fixed, but this has left me with a bad taste in my mouth for DIY units. If the Co2/ph balance is this easy to throw out of whack, at the risk of losing fish, I am not sure I want to mess around with other than regulated CO2.

Not that anyone would have any, but thoughts?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 07:57 PM
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Your CO2 will out gas without a water change, although it will help it move faster if you do. I had a tough time with DIY, and am SO much happier with pressurized, i would recommend it.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 08:08 PM
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Sorry no one caught it yesterday. (Sometimes either there are too few people on who feel comfortable in their knowledge to answer... or sometimes more likely, there are so many new posts being listed at once that a new thread gets pushed past the point where people see it.)

When I first started DIY CO2, everything went fine since I had lots of surface aggitation, but then I removed my bubblers to try to keep in some CO2, and ended up with not enough O2 and too much CO2 being trapped under my hoods.

Oddly enough, I experienced a dreadful ich outbreak at the same time, also. I am begining to think that the CO2 levels were creeping up and the fish stressing out was what caused the ich outbreak. I lost a lot of fish and a couple shrimp.

Since then I have added an oxygenator (which has really helped my O2 levels without having to out-gas so much CO2). However, I got a really good respect for very careful adjustments when it comes to surface aggitation.

My best suggestion is to increase the surface movement and wait to add back your CO2 until after dealing with the ich. Then slowly reduce your surface movement to get the right balance of CO2 and O2.

Yours sounds more like an issue of too much CO2, while mine was more a lack of O2, but I really got good results for increasing my O2 just a little with this:
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...ght=oxygenator

Something so expensive and addictive HAS to be illegal. I'm just waiting for the police to break down my door and confinscate my fish food.
What's my sign? I'm an aquarist. --- 18g Planted Guppies, 15g Planted Killifish, 40g Planted Molly, 55g Asst Cichlids, 120g Planted Community, 60g Salty Reef, 180g Planted Goldfish


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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My current experience sounds exactly like what you experienced TAF CAF. However, after reading your post link I am even more convinced that there is just too much science in trying to reach equilibrium, and maintaining it. The really sad thing is that I removed my Emperor 400 filter at the recommendation of many posters on this forum and replaced it with a cannister filter. Now it would apear I do not have enough surface agitation! This is just too darn confusing and not what I would call user friendly. I will never be able to leave home for more than a day without hiring a chemist housesitter! No, I definitely need to rethink this whole plant/CO2 thing.

Thanks for your responses!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 10:02 PM
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Some surface agitation and aeration of the water on a daily basis is vital.
A simple lift of the spray bar to surface daily will safe you lot's of grief.
Sorry for your trouble, planted tanks can be tricky, its not always plug and play/pray...lol

Craig

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 10:36 PM
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Yea, setting the return to ripple the surface would be the way to go for now.

I know it is a pain to start out with, but once you get a good level settled, it really does make you go 'WOW! That's my tank!'

The way I am going to do it from now on is not try to innitially get to the 'ideal' range of CO2. Instead, I go for just getting a little more CO2 disolved at a time until I see the plants growing well. I don't have much 'pearling', but I am really happy with my plants rate of growth, and at the last time I checked, I am still a good bit below what most people consider 'ideal'.

I know it is disscouraging... there have been many times I went 'round the house screaming "I HATE FISH!!!"

Something so expensive and addictive HAS to be illegal. I'm just waiting for the police to break down my door and confinscate my fish food.
What's my sign? I'm an aquarist. --- 18g Planted Guppies, 15g Planted Killifish, 40g Planted Molly, 55g Asst Cichlids, 120g Planted Community, 60g Salty Reef, 180g Planted Goldfish


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WfxXx View Post
A simple lift of the spray bar to surface daily will safe you lot's of grief.
I am not sure what you are saying here. Could you clarify for me? Thanks.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 11:21 PM
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Oxygenated water is healthy and good for fish and plant's, notice in fish only tank's, the bubbler? adding 02, the fish and plants both benefit from that in a planted tank, except in planted tanks, it needs to be regulated somewhat.

Lift the spraybar or lily pipe to break the surface of the water, I do it at night after lights and C02 are off.
As mentioned above by TAF CAF, I don't worry about C02, ph or any of that, add the gas during photoperiod, then losen the caps on your bottles and lift the spraybar to surface for nightly aeration of the water.

You will be able to sleep in peace. you also need to get rid of the icky, that is stressfull enough on the fish, C02 does not help in that situation.

Hope this helps to clarify.

Craig

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazy J View Post
I am not sure what you are saying here. Could you clarify for me? Thanks.
What do you have to return the water from the canister? Spray-bars or lilly-pipes, etc are commonly used. The idea would be to point whatever returns the water at the surface to make some movement at surface level.

Something so expensive and addictive HAS to be illegal. I'm just waiting for the police to break down my door and confinscate my fish food.
What's my sign? I'm an aquarist. --- 18g Planted Guppies, 15g Planted Killifish, 40g Planted Molly, 55g Asst Cichlids, 120g Planted Community, 60g Salty Reef, 180g Planted Goldfish


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