Here's my City water report, should I change my dosing? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-11-2006, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Here's my City water report, should I change my dosing?

For starters:

125g with playsand substrate (lots of diggers and will probably get root tabs), XP3, for lighting I just got a 48" strip light from home depot and 2 of the phillips "plant and aquarium" bulbs, my tank gets lots of direct sunlight too. I'm not planning on a very dense tank, more a community tank with some plants.

Anyways my water is drawn from a local reservoir:

Atrazine (ppb) .67
Beta/photon emitters (pCi/L) 4.6
Fluoride (ppm) 1.09
HAAs [Haloacetic Acids] (ppb) 41.8
Nitrate (ppm) 1.1
Total Chlorine (ppm) 1.69
Total Organic Carbon (ppm) 2.12 (this is good right?)
TTHMs [Total Trihalomethanes] (ppb) 46.0
Turbidity (NTU) .20

Then under the "unregulated substances" section:

Bromodichloromethane (ppb) 5.9
Bromoform (ppb) ND
Chloroform (ppb) 24.1
Dibromochloromethane (ppb) 1.1
Metolachlor (ppb) <.20

I was just gonna by the dry pmdd but figured I'd ask the experts first, I'm sure you begining water chemistry determines what you need to add.


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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-11-2006, 03:29 PM
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You have about 80 watts on a 125 gallon tank, and no reflectors to speak of. So, you have a very low light tank. The direct sunlight adds to the light, but in a variable amount. I suggest treating it as a low light non CO2 tank, and fertilizing sparingly, plus doing no water changes unless you have to to correct some problem. I didn't see anything in your water report about phosphates or potassium, and the nitrate amount is very low, so that won't benefit the plants much. Why don't you try weekly fertilizing with about 1/4 tsp of KNO3, for nitrate and potassium, and about 1/16 tsp for phosphate, plus about 1/16 tsp CSM+B, all from Greg Watson's site:

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-15-2006, 03:16 AM
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Take a look at the recently added low tech forum. You can grow plants, but you will have to do things a little different then high tech tanks. Actually it's less work for you, but you can't grow as many plants and you have to be more patient.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 01:46 PM
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If you didn't already, you can usually get a full water analysis from your local water co by calling and asking. The ones I get have much more info than what they send out to everyone. It usually shows all the elements - Ca, Mg, Mn, B, Cu, etc., and may show phosphate. Keep in mind that the reports are on one or just a few samples they collected. The parameters of the water delivered into your home could be different, depending - usually they're close enough for gov't work.

Looking at the detailed water report might help identify deficiencies in some of the more important nutrients / elements. Of course, one would need some idea of what the desireable range for level of, say Mn, should be in a planted tank to interpret the values listed on the report. "Accepted" values for macro nutrients like Ca would be easiers to come by.

Also, you might find it hard to keep algae under control if the tank gets much direct sunlight. Some people might have problems if a tank gets a lot of fairly strong indirect sunlight.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 02:29 AM
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It's all about the path the water takes to you and the piping. My KH bounces around from 1 to 5 a few times a year out of the tap, as does GH, but the water department says they haven't changed anything every time I contact them. I see the reports and my tapwater doesn't even come close to matching it. You have to go by test kits most of the time, or call the water department and see if they'll send someone out for a full water analysis if you have questions. I didn't even know they'd do that, but turns out some of them do. At any rate, I wouldn't base my needs for dosing anything by a water report.

"Good judgment is the result of experience, experience is the result of bad judgment." --Mark Twain
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