Ph. Problems - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2006, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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Ph. Problems

My ph will not go down with my CO2 injection system....

The KH is 8 degrees and the ph will stay at 7.2... the automatic controller is injection gas 24/7 and still nothing... What is wrong here?

I have minimal water circulation as I know that is a big reason for excessive CO2 loss but other than that I don't know what i'm doing wrong. I'm injectiong the gas right into my canister filter as well as I was told in another post that injection by that method is the cheapest and most effective.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2006, 04:09 AM
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read this post...i think it will answer your question https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/wa...high-help.html

30 gallon pita...102watts..pressurized co2 ...jbj regulator...eco-complete substrate...xp-2... inline c-02 reactor...turbo twist uv
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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So I should try to reduce my surface tension and or increase the bpm? I tested for leaks and didn't find any... i put soapy water on all possible leak spots and no bubbles developed. I'm going to turn up the bpm and then reduce surface agitation and post results tomorrow.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 05:11 PM
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If the PH controller keeps the CO2 going all the time then the bubble rate is too low, or the method of diffusing the CO2 isn't working, or you have leaks of CO2. I think your bubble rate should be around 2 per second or higher for that size tank.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Solution Found!

Ok so I increased the bubble count to 75 bpm and significantly reduced water surface agitation by redirecting the spraybar. I keep my tank at 76 degrees F so I'm not worried about O2 losses. Right now my ph is 7.0 and staying there easily. My fish don't look or act stressed right now so as far as I can tell everything is working.

Also I think I am going to increase the bubble count some more still because the automated controller is still running quite a bit. It took 4 hours to bring the ph from 7.2 down to 7.0
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 11:06 PM
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Now is a good time to take a sample of water from the tank, let it sit out in the open for several hours, measure its PH. Then subtract 1.0 from that and that should be your controller target, in order to get 30-40 ppm CO2.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-18-2006, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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I use a program on my computer that takes into calculates CO2 levels by using the ph value and KH value so as to determine the appropriate setting for my controller... Chuck's Planted Aquarium Calculator...
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2006, 07:08 PM
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Thumbs down

ahh so annoying, I had a whole essay on a problem and then I doubled clicked and lost the lot. Somtimes computers drive me banana's!!

Anyway, here's my problem. I seem to be having the opposite problem to that described in this thread ie I can't seem to keep my pH from falling. Even without the CO2 system which I have, the PH seems to fall slowly over time. Now my water is very soft in this NY suburb district. Not so bad for my discus or house plumbing but it is annoying nontheless. My water has a low KH values and has been known to cause inbalances in the PH levels in the past. To rememdy this issue I have added sodium bicarbs before to increase both the KH and PH values. This works but it never seems to keep the values up. What KH values should my tank be at ? Any typical values? Should I be dosing with some sort of KH solution? My water has gotten down to PH 5.3 and KH 1.0. Right now its about 6.0 (a 0.2 drop over two days), KH unknown right now

I have a planted tank, eco-complete substrate, a large piece of driftwood covered in BBA that I can't seem to get rid off (the CO2 won't come on due to the low PH to help comabt this), eheim 2215 for a 46 gal tank. Bioload seems reasonable. I have fast growing plants like duckweed that I suspect, drain a lot of nutrients from the tank. Could these be a potential problem with altering the KH values? I have 96W light on for 10 hours a day.

My current stragegy has involved adding crushed coral to the filter media to try and increase the hardness of the water. So far this method has paid no dividends. I can continue to dose with baking soda but this doesn't seem like a good long term strategy. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I could use some experience on this one...
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2006, 08:43 PM
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http://rexgrigg.com/./waterchem.htm
how often do you change your water and do you have a high fish load?

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2006, 10:20 PM
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Liberal,

It's natural for pH to slowly drop. It's from the waste products from the fish. How often and how large are your water changes?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 12:39 PM
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Arrow Bioload

For a 46gal tank I have the following:

1 discus (medium sized)
2 corys
5 pencilfish
9 lemon tetras
1 FFF

I just bought 10 amano shrimp to try and tackle the algae problem. The tank is heavily planted with duckweed, vallisneria, jave ferns etc I end up scooping out the duckweed after a week as it completely covers the tank.

I also have an army of ramshorn snails rummaging in the eco-complete substrate (could a big snail problem be a problem?)

I am running a eheim 2215 which I believe is well capable of handling a 46gal tank (correct me if I am wrong here).

I change about 20-25% of the water on a weekly basis. The water is from a 90 gal tank set up in my basement that I use for the 46gal (90 gal has no fish as of yet as I am still deciding what to do with it...or what i can afford to do)

Is my bioload too high? I'm starting to think that the discus may be tipping the scales a bit. I also might be feeding too much and causing some problems on that end.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 12:47 PM
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It could be the over-feeding.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 01:53 PM
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ph will not go down with my CO2 injection system....


First thing I would do to stabilize my ph (other parameters) is a %50 water change,it does wonders.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 02:30 PM
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Course of Action

Perhaps Iíll do the following in the next few days
-perform another 25% water change
-reduce feeding amount (thatís tough because the fish always look hungry)
-monitor the pH and KH values and dose with baking soda slowly if necessary.

I personally donít like performing 50% water changes as I have found that this causes the fish too much stress. I would rather perform more frequent changes than one large one.

I am also suspecting that the driftowwd piece that I have is another culprit in my struggle with pH dominance. It could still be leaching tannins after a year!
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2006, 01:50 AM
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Ah..... driftwood. Could be the "root" of the problem.
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