Best way to lower NO3? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Best way to lower NO3?

Does Zeolite helps ? What about ammonia remover ?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 06:18 AM
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Hah.. I cant keep nitrates in my tank... *sigh* lets trade water changes.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Solace
Hah.. I cant keep nitrates in my tank... *sigh* lets trade water changes.
"Let there be fishes!"......do you have fish inside....lol
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 06:48 AM
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You mean temporarily due to an aquarium problem or regularly due to high NO3 levels in your tap?

"Insanity: doing [or asking] the same thing over and over again and expecting different results."
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by xberia
"Let there be fishes!"......do you have fish inside....lol
I think im overstocked on fish :P
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by random_alias
You mean temporarily due to an aquarium problem or regularly due to high NO3 levels in your tap?
No captain, none of the above.
I want to keep NO3 low in my newly setup Rotala Macrandra tank. 2.5 footer with 150 MH. I have not put in any fish yet. I am just exploring best alternatives available.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 11:58 AM
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Quick answer: 50% Water changes lower your Nitrates by half if your change water is nitrate free.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 05:02 PM
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You can reduce nitrates to near zero if you have fast growing plants in the tank. Plants use up nitrate pretty fast, and the bonus is nice looking plants.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 05:14 PM
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I would use the other recommendations first before resorting to chemicals, but the product below does indicate it will remove nitrates among other things. Haven't used it though. Nitrates are the least toxic of the 3 (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), so I am not sure why you think you need to remove them at this point.

What is your nitr-a-te level at the moment?
how about nitr-i-tes and ammonia?

http://www.seachem.com/products/prod...s/Purigen.html
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 08:02 PM
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Those Purigen claims are misleading. It doesn't remove nitrate, but rather just the soluble organics which are broken down by nitrifying bacteria into NH4 and then into NO2 and NO3. So *technically* it does reduce nitrates in a sense, but then *technically* so does charcoal.

Purigen is basically artificial charcoal and does the same thing imo.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 08:31 PM
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Yep, that is what is says. Like you said, I guess other products would do just as well. "Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds."
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 09:09 PM
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Actually Amquel Plus (PLUS not regular Amquel) is supposed to remove nitrites and nitrates. The reason I use the regular and not the plus. I always have to put the stuff in I sure as heck don't want to use something that's going to take it out!

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2006, 10:37 PM
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Water changes and plants are the only good ways to remove nitrates.

If you are accumulating nitrates because of waste break-down you are also accumulating other dissolved organic compounds, many of which are more toxic than nitrates, but we can't easily measure them.

Ion exchange resins and nitrate absorbsion units either will not absorb the DOCs, or will which can be worse because they'll also take out the micronutrients necessary for plants or for fish!

Water changes should be done, even if you have to add in nitrates for the plants for the above reasons anyway, so water changes are your best bet for controlling nitrates if they build up.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 01:48 AM
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Thanks all for quick feedback.
This species tank is setup with Rotala Macrandra in mind. And I have homemade soil subtrate covered with river sand.

1. Water change - should be minimal to avoid pH shock + to maintain dissolved CO2. My habit is to change water once a week.

2. Fast growing plant - not possible, this is hairgrass + r. macrandra ONLY tank.

3. NO3 is a fertilizer, why keep it low ? - yes, but red plant needs low NO3.

4. Chemical - expensive and might change other water parameter which is undesired.

5. Zeolite - cheap, reusable, won't affect KH, non-toxic, no maintenance.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 04:45 AM
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If I were going to do that I would start the tank with fast growing, cheap stem plants, planning to discard them in favor of the hairgrass and r. macranda after several weeks. That would get your substrate stabilized to some degree, get rid of the substrate caused nitrites, help stop algae from taking over, and let you get the fertilizing routine established. The problem, of course, is that when you pull out the temporary plants you disturb that soil underneath and may start a major algae bloom.

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