Ideal nitrate level to make leaves red - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ideal nitrate level to make leaves red

I see some post on here that says in order to get your plants with red leaves to burst out in color that you have to have a low nitrate level.I currently have a nitrate level of 20ppm ,is that ideal or too high.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 03:31 PM
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Try to get it down around 10 ppm. This can be a little tricky. If your nitrates bottom out you will have algae problems. Up your PO4 levels as well


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigstick120
Try to get it down around 10 ppm. This can be a little tricky. If your nitrates bottom out you will have algae problems. Up your PO4 levels as well
With the PO4,do I just wing it as far as an increase because it my understanding that there aren't any reliable test kits for PO4 .
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-13-2006, 03:45 PM
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If by "wing it" you mean increase your dosing regimen by about 0.5ppm, then yep!

I gotta say, though, my nitrates are about 5-10ppm typically and even my sunset hygro isn't very red. . .
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 02:08 AM
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i've found dosing PO4, K+, iron, and traces like mad (some even more than recommended in "estimative index", especially the iron, and cutting my nitrate dosing back to about 1/2 the recommended does has worked wonders. Red plants look GORGEOUS, and in fact, they're growing faster, too (i always thought more nitrate = more growth), but apparently PO4 has as much to do with growth as nitrate... Anyway, try cutting your nitrate dosing to about 1/2 of what you're dosing now... wait it out, it takes a couple weeks to see a real difference. Oh, and heed the algae warnings above... if your nitrate drops too low, you'll get algae out the ears. if it starts to show up, you need more nitrate... it's a balancing act that each person really has to find for themselves depending on their plant load, fish load, local water supply, etc. but this should get you pretty close.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esarkipato
If by "wing it" you mean increase your dosing regimen by about 0.5ppm, then yep!

I gotta say, though, my nitrates are about 5-10ppm typically and even my sunset hygro isn't very red. . .

Hey mine isn't either! All I can coax out is a dull coppery color. And that's when I'm actually trying. I thought this was an "easy" red plant.

In college....so no aquariums for a while.....
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 05:59 AM
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It is an easy plant, try less light and you will not bottom out the NO3.

That how many dutch and old time growers where able to maintain a nice low NO3 level and ncie red plants back when about all you could put on topm of the tank was a 2w/gal light set up.

But nawwwwww.............all you folks think more light = redder plants.
Redder plants = better, nope and nope.

I pick a nice red plant that is red at higher NO3 levels instead.
Opsy's method will work well if you want to see the effect.



Regards,
Tom Barr



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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain
It is an easy plant, try less light and you will not bottom out the NO3.
How did you know I had 3.8 wpg? LoL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain
I pick a nice red plant that is red at higher NO3 levels instead. Opsy's method will work well if you want to see the effect.
So coupled with the first statement, are you saying there are red plants that get redder with higher nitrates, but only if there is 2 wpg?

**trying not to hijack thread**Where does Alt. reineckii v. "rosaefolia" stand? I ask because I'm getting some soon.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 04:59 PM
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No, I am saying that a stable low NO3 level is much easier to maintain at low light w/o stunting.

Additionally, the red colors appear redder with darker, lower light.

In the past , most folks had 1.5-2 w'gal on NO FL's.
Many did not even need to add NO3 since they had a decent fish load.

Slower uptake=slower growth= less NO3 demand= more time in between dosing/less critical if the NO3 drops very low.

Plants get use to a certain level of NO3(Low, med, high etc). If you vary this a lot, it'll make the plant stressed. Especially high to low. The plant/tank 's NO3 level can bottom out at higher light and then you are screwed.

Regards,
Tom Barr



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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esarkipato
**trying not to hijack thread**Where does Alt. reineckii v. "rosaefolia" stand? I ask because I'm getting some soon.
I keep my nitrates around 20-30 ppm and it stays a beautiful hot pink/magenta color.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 07:37 PM
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My L panatanal is very red, so is my R macrandra, bloody red.
R wallichii too, and A renieckii (2 varieties).

And that's at 20-30ppm.

Simply chosing another plant species can do the trick.
I have some of the most blood deep red colors in my R macrandra I've ever seen.

The pantanl is cherry red, not as deep, but rather, a very bright cherry red.
That's at high light, 5.5 w/gal or about 450 micromoles PAR at the the water's surface.

Regards,
Tom Barr



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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 06:01 PM
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What is L panatanal? Tried looking it up but couldn't find anything.

This is the first I've heard of it, and as a fan of red plants I am always looking.
Thank you
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 07:27 PM
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I have 6-10 ppm of nitrate and my plants aren`t any redder than anyone else`s.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 07:34 PM
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try ludwigia pantanal

In college....so no aquariums for a while.....
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