RO/DI ?s - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2006, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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RO/DI ?s

Im setting up a 240 gallon planted tank. I refuse to use tap water no matter what anyone says I think its the root of all evil algae. With that being said, what does everyone recommend I use to get the RO water back to being plant/fish ready. I use RO Right in my cichlid tanks but I was wondering what supplements that I needed to add to get it ready to go before I add plants. Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2006, 07:26 PM
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Searching the forum brought up good results.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...t=reconstitute

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...t=reconstitute

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...t=reconstitute

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...t=reconstitute

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ht=equilibrium

I mention what I use to reconstitute my 100% RO water in many of the above threads.

"Insanity: doing [or asking] the same thing over and over again and expecting different results."

Last edited by random_alias; 02-01-2006 at 10:35 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2006, 10:40 PM
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I use 100% RO in all my tanks. I add excel and tmg after water changes and dose pmdd daily. Works for me.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 12:45 AM
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Hi all, I am new. I have followed the posted search links - very informative. The formula to calculate dGH = (ppm Ca * 2.5 plus ppm Mg * 4.1) / 17.9 is clear.

What about calculating gKH in reconstituted water using baking soda? By analogy this would be = ppm NaHCO3 * 1.2 /17.9. But is carbonate hardness defined only by a concentration? Should I account for the fact that HCO3 ion has only one negative charge, while CO3 has two? If yes, then I need to divide this by 2 to get the right answer.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 12:45 PM
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I use Seachem's Equilibrium and baking soda. Works well for me and dissolves completely in about an hour. In a 240 gallon tank that will be a lot of RO water to make and reconstitue every week for water changes. I tried for a couple years to get my tap water suitable to use in my tank and it turned out to be more work than just using reconstitued RO water.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Im going to have 4 55 gallon trash cans holding the water. My R/O unit is rated at 100 gallons a day I believe. Its going to be a lot of water to reconstitute yes but I can do 4 water changes worth when I do it. And allow it to age for a few weeks before needing it. What does everyone recommend for test kits I still need to purchase them. Im jumping into this from Tanganyikan cichlids.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 03:42 PM
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I do not understand why ageing is needed. I'd think if it is nice clean RO/DI water and if one adds all the chemicals needed, this water is ready to go right away. Not true?
Kits: do not have much experience with different brands. Just bougtht Aquarium Pharmaceuticals GH&KH test kit by mail from Marine Depot. Inexpensive and worked well.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sure its not needed but I do it already for my cichlid tanks. I like to have my R/0 unit running til I fill all of the containers. Then shut it down til its needed again. I prefer doing it all at once so I dont have to worry about flooding my house.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-05-2006, 11:34 PM
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To add minerals back into the water why not use tap water? It's cheap and it works well.

Or you can buy 50 lbs of baking soda, 50 lbs of calcium chloride and 50 lbs of magnesium sulfate and have enough minerals for a long time.

Cost for the 150 lbs all total around here would be about $53.

Of course you are also going to need ferts for the plants.

I would just use tap water since it's what I use already. But then my tap water is very pure.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-06-2006, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saints1804
I'm sure its not needed but I do it already for my cichlid tanks. I like to have my R/0 unit running til I fill all of the containers. Then shut it down til its needed again. I prefer doing it all at once so I dont have to worry about flooding my house.
How long is you RO unit off? Do you backflush it?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-06-2006, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Its never off more than a day at a time. I just run it for a few hours and then turn it off. I dont like leaving it off for too long so I just have it make 25 gallons and then stop. I have so many tanks to do water changes it on it pretty much runs every day.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-06-2006, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saints1804
Its never off more than a day at a time. I just run it for a few hours and then turn it off. I dont like leaving it off for too long so I just have it make 25 gallons and then stop. I have so many tanks to do water changes it on it pretty much runs every day.
Have you tested the water at the beginning of production and at the end? Reason I ask is I've heard that turning off your RO will increase the TDS when it is started back up.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-06-2006, 09:07 PM
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I only use my RO unit occasionally and when I start it up I let it run for about an hour before collecting water. I have a good TDS meter to confirm that the water condition is where I want it.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-07-2006, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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I live in Dallas and the tapwater is horrible. I dont even drink it! So RO is what im going to use it just seems much easier to control than tapwater in my area.
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