Co2 at 80ppm? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-10-2006, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Co2 at 80ppm?

I've been battling green algae on the glass and i believe it's green dust algae, anyway, it was recommended to up the co2 and watch the fish, i cranked it up to 2bps on my 20g and it reads at around 80ppm and the fish are fine, can i keep this up until the algae gets under control?, thanks
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:17 AM
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80ppm??

I thought 30 ppm was the safest level you could keep it? What's your kH and pH now?

To combat algae it's recommended to up your co2 to 30ppm, but make sure your nutrient level is good as well.

-Russ
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:34 AM
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If you don't have issues with fish gasping at the surface during the night then you're fine. It could also be a false KH reading that's making you think you have 80ppm when you really have less.

Keeping a high CO2 level is easier on the fish if you have your injection tied to your lighting. It also helps if you don't keep a tight lid over the tank as this will trap outgassed CO2 at the water surfaceduring the night there's no O2 exchange possible since there's only CO2 above the water.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:35 AM
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2bpm or 2 bps. Are you getting 1 bubble every 30 seconds. What is your KH and PH, how old are they, maybe you have something buffering the water. What type of substrate do you have in the tank


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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:48 AM
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If the fish are fine do not worry about it, test kits are iffy, fish, plant's and algae, are the best C02 indicator's.

Sounds like the tank is still a bit new, reduce the lighting a bit, raise it further above the tank for a couple/few weeks if you can, stay on the dosing and the H20 changes, with green dust, get most at waterchange after draining the tank, clean the green dust off with papertowel's, you may have to do this 2 or 3 time's at each water change, the reduction in light will help.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 12:54 AM
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I'd not rely so much on the test kits and use the fish, plants and algae to determine your test kits. After moving from Maryland to Ohio I have found my public water supply has 6 ppm of phosphate alkalinity added for, I assume, corrosion control.

In Ohio, I have had CO2 levels over 200ppm according to my Hanna 98129 meter and LaMotte Alkalinity kit without fish stress and I had Discus in the tank at the time! I know this can't be a true reading but even at CO2 levels around 120ppm I don't get good pearling but I do get some algae growth.

The KH/pH chart was dead on in my tanks in MD and 30 ppm kept algae away and gave good pearling. 35ppm or so and the fish started to stress. The move has required some adjustments on my part

Get your Comprehensive Water Quality Report and look it over to see if there is anything in your water that may be throwing off your readings. Keep upping the CO2 and watch for signs of stress in your fish. Make sure you only do this when you will be around to watch the fish. i.e. don't crank it up and go to work or you may have lost some fish when you get home!

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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It's 2bps in a 20g tank, my mistake. I just checked our water supply and the ALKALINITY is 131 ppm and it's consistent with my test kit and the HARDNESS of 310 ppm. These were the Co2 readings, 45 bpm, PH 7.0, at 80 bpm, PH 6.8, at 100 pbm, PH 6.6, then i set it at 120-150 bpm, and it gave me 6.4-6.5, all of these readings combine with the steady reading of 130 ppm. So, with the last testing the CO2 would give me between 70-80 ppm. I have rasboras, ottos and shrimp in the tank, maybe they're tough. Hopefully, with the given advice i'll be able to contain the algae, and i can lower the CO2.
Also, the CO2 is off at night and good air and water circulation as well.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 11:27 AM
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I get some crazy high CO2 readings as well out of my water. There seems to be an additive put in by the city that makes our KH and GH test unusable. I suspect you have the same problems. Here is what was suggested to me from someone on one of the forums. Works great and finally gave me a better clue on my CO2 levels. Before this I thought I was reading CO2 levels over 100ppm but saw no fish gasping and just a little pearling.
Here goes: Tank a sample of your tank water and let it sit our for 48 hours. Put an air stone in if you want, to degass all the CO2. Read the PH. Lets say it is 8.0. We can approximate that every drop in a full degree of PH equals 30ppm of CO2, so if you drive your tank PH down to 7.0 you should have approx. 30ppm, at PH6.0 60ppm and so on.
This works great for me. The sample I pulled for 48 hrs. had a PH of 7.8. When I have the CO2 push my PH down to 6.3 I have tons of pearling and great plant growth. When I dipe down below 6.0 PH the fish head to the surface and some shrimp die.
I have been keeping my PH at the 6.3.

Hope this helps.

JR
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-11-2006, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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I'll do that and see what the results is, thanks.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-12-2006, 02:48 PM
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Try increasing phosphate levels (after testing, of course). green spot is usually due to low phosphates, not low CO2, IME.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-12-2006, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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It's really not a spot algae, it's green algae on the glass, the high level of co2 wasn't doing it so i turned it down, still at 40ppm, it's freaking annoying, no matter what i do, water change every other day, wiping it each night, still shows up after the lights go on, i really have no idea what to do at this point, everything seems to be in check, i'll wait it out and hopefully i'll be able to get a UV and get this thing under control, i'm out of ideas. When this thing starts to show up my phospate level was over the chart which was 5 ppm, and i thought that was the reason, i lowered it to 1-2 ppm and no change.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 12:25 AM
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Is it like a dusty algae or is it a thready stringy algae on the glass? Have you checked the nitrates?





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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 12:28 AM
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If it comes off the glass like slime, it is green dust algae. It died during my 3 day blackout.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 12:35 AM
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It isnt going to just die over night. Try higher CO2 levels for a week or so


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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-13-2006, 12:36 AM
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For me, it died over 3 nights.
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