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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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dosing for dummies

I have no experience with dosing ferts. The plants I have all grew very well in an iron and mineral rich soil base which I have recently removed. The tank is bare bottomed now with the plants tied to wood. The water is ok for GH and KH, ~10 ppm nitrate and the lighting is low medium. The plants seem undaunted so far but I doubt it will last. The fish (goldfish) produce a lot of waste and I change a lot of water but I suspect I will have to add something to keep the plants thriving. I don't know where to start beyond that I know that I have enough nitrogen from the fish waste. I imagine the plants will need iron but don't know about potassium or phosphate. I don't really want to buy iron, P and K test kits right now and am very tempted to just start adding flourish and hope it covers all the bases. Is this likely to work or should I do something else?


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Goldfish are among the worst fish for beginners.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 03:50 PM
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Fish food usually contains enough:
N, P, most traces.
Fish food can be a bit lacking in:
K, Fe

I would dose API Leaf Zone (K and Fe) and see if the plants are happy. There are cheaper ways to buy K and Fe, but as a test, buying the fertilizers as a liquid is OK.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Diana. You are helping me in another thread too and I have done some research. You say fish provide "most traces" which sound like some would be missing, to me. That supports my thinking that CSB+B is probably a good idea since my tank is heavily planted and it also provides the iron I know I need. I will add the potassium and see if the plants like it.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 08:14 AM
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Buy some K2SO4 and CSM+B from nilocg here on the forum. Buying dry is the way to go. Very cheap and after a couple months you begin to realize it lasts forever compared to the bottled stuff.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 10:53 AM
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Running out of my flourish line. Interested in dry fertz. It is almost foreign a foreign language reading them on the forum. I would love some insight regarding purchasing and dosing.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Sotty. Any opinions on the best form of iron for alkaline water?


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:54 AM
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@Sd760
Dosing Regimen EI Dosing
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=21944
Dry Ferts Supplier
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=196748

Note EI is for High Light CO2 injected tanks. So dont follow those doses if thats not you. Low tech tanks generally can start at about 1/3 the listed dose once a week.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks Sotty. Any opinions on the best form of iron for alkaline water?
Good question and would better be directed at someone that knows more than I. I have only ever used Iron chelate EDTA, the same stuff that is in CSM+B.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Finger View Post
Any opinions on the best form of iron for alkaline water?
Ones chelated with DTPA, such as
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquari...n-chelate.html
http://www.bobstropicalplants.com/sh...1-2-pound.html
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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For anyone elses interest. done some research and.. DTPA is only stable up to pH7 above which it breaks down pretty fast, which may not be a bad thing oddly. EDDHA is stable up to pH11 but may stay around so long as to accumulate levels toxic to fish. On the other hand the EDDHA can also detox other heavy metals, so..? And Gluconate breaks down in maybe an hour or less at my high pH which may be fine after all. pLants pick it up quickl then its gone and cant hurt the fish. Think I will stop worrying about it and use whatever, but low levels if it's EDDHA, plus a little gluconate.


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Finger View Post
For anyone elses interest. done some research and.. DTPA is only stable up to pH7 above which it breaks down pretty fast, which may not be a bad thing oddly. EDDHA is stable up to pH11 but may stay around so long as to accumulate levels toxic to fish. On the other hand the EDDHA can also detox other heavy metals, so..? And Gluconate breaks down in maybe an hour or less at my high pH which may be fine after all. pLants pick it up quickl then its gone and cant hurt the fish. Think I will stop worrying about it and use whatever, but low levels if it's EDDHA, plus a little gluconate.
EDDHA, many people had used it (me too) but it stains water even when adding in very small amount.
If you don't mind red/brown water, that's OK.

That's why DTPA is the best compromise we have now.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know. Thanks!


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