Dosing instructions, do they mean tank or new water? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2012, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Dosing instructions, do they mean tank or new water?

The Instructions on my bottles always read more or less the same thing, add 5ml per 40ltr of aquarium water. ( some miss out the word aquarium )

Now...

Do they mean as i have a 130ltr tank add 15ml ish to my 20ltr water change, or as it's 20ltr going in, 2.5ml??

On my older 20ltr tank i just went with the 2,5ml on my 5ltr changes as i thought it won't hurt, and the bottles still last ages.

And does this change with the chemical? do some mean total volume, some change volume depending on if it's stress coat, zyme, or the PH Buffer?

Just for interest it's a AquaOne 620T using the hood filter upgraded to 1000ltr power head, with an external filter also rated at 1000ltr good for 180-250ltr tanks.
One thing i learnt with the old 20ltr is you can't beat filter capacity, that tank ran at about 10% volume filter, mostly because as a river tank i needed somewhere for the flow and huge pump to go, filled the volume with balls, foam and other bio type things.
This tank is about 10 liters worth of filter.

Currently finishing the cycling with moderate planting, an apple snail, 7 red cherry shrimp and a black molly fry that jumped in the bag with the shrimp.

Cheers, Phil.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2012, 01:24 PM
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks
What puzzled me tho and why i've asked to make sure..
Is if i've added the 15ml to remove chlorine from the water i originally added to the tank, why do i need to add it for the 110ltr of water already treated in the tank when i only need to treat 20ltr going in?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2012, 06:48 PM
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You can treat the new water going in, before it goes in, using the recommended dosage for that volume of water, but if you add the new water to the tank you need to add enough dechlorinator to treat the whole tank. You need to get above a minimum concentration in the water for it to work right. It works very quickly, which is why you can pre-treat the change water.

The best way to use pH correcting substances is to keep them on a shelf, forever.

Other stuff you might dose is dosed to reach a ppm concentration recommended by the manufacturer. So, if there is enough in the tank water, you only add enough to treat the amount of change water. Dechlorinator has a limited life in the tank, so what you added the last time is no longer good now.

Hoppy
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2012, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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I always treat the water being added before hand, no point adding untreated water then treating the mess thats left afterwards, the idea being the livestock never has to deal with untreated for whatever length of time.

The buffer isn't to correct the PH as in PH up/down, thats ok as it is, this stuff does however add hardness which my tap water has none off
it's that good off the mains you can use it top up car batteries.
I had a PH crash a while back which was caused by the hardness from the new tank gravel slowly wearing off till there was none


the only one in my mind that makes sense to dose the whole tank is the stress zyme, to top up the tanks bio filters
i don't see the need to add a tanks worth of dechlorineator to already dechlorinated water

so, looks like i'll work out the stress coat and buffer at replacement volume, the zyme at tank volume and carry on pre-treating

Cheers

Last edited by CornishCactus; 08-19-2012 at 08:16 PM. Reason: s not nd
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 03:23 AM
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Bio filters do not need to be topped off with bacteria. The proper species of bacteria is long lived in aquariums. If there is a problem that kills them, such as medication for the fish, then you can add more. But use the right species. Nitrospira. Do not waste your money on anything else. This is not a product that needs to be used with every water change. Add it also when you increase the bio load (add more fish).

Treating the water in a bucket before adding it to the tank is a good idea. Add dechlor to the volume of the new water, not the whole tank.
If the GH and KH are OK in the tank, then just treat the new water. If the GH and KH have been falling in the tank then you can add more to the new water, so that the mix of new water + tank water will result in a rise in GH and KH.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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No idea whats in Stress Zyme, funny enough it's listed in Seachem Stability, which is what i used to use
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