Light, C02, Nutrient - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Light, C02, Nutrient

The *TRYING TO* understanding the 3 thing a plant tank need.
Let me see if I'm getting this right or not.

Less Light = less co2 Demand = less nutrient demand?
More Light = more co2 demand = more nutrient demand.

less light doesn't always mean less co2/nutrient?
1x light
4x co2
2.5x nutrient
can be done? Other words I can have low light with high co2 and high nutrient or med nutrient?(just a example)

So when it come down to setting up a plant tank. Always look at 1. Light
2. Co2
3. Nutrient
2 and 3 should always be higher then 1.

Side note: Phosphate does not cause GSA.
Overfeeding is OK if Ammo is LOW and No3 is below 30ppm
but overfeeding will cause phosphate to bump by +ppm. Which isn't a problem since a high phosphate help keep GSA low?

NPK - 40 Gallon Breeder Tank Dosing

Kno3 - At 1.0g give 4.05ppm of kno3
k- 2.55
n- 0.91
no3- 4.05

Kh2po4- At 2.0g give 9.22ppm
k- 3.79
p- 3.01
po4- 9.22

K2so4- At 2.0g give 3.93ppm
k- 5.93
s- 2.43

if we was to add all
K- 12.27ppm
N- 0.91
No3 - 4.05
P- 3.01
P04- 9.22
S- 2.43

A good balance of NPK would BE?
More K less P and N?
More K and P less N? Since there already N in the tank(fish waste)

Should I have more N say at 25ppm and P at 10 and K at 15 or does it matter?

Balance Co2 with Light before you balance Nutrient with Co2.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 11:21 PM
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Rather than try so hard to reason out how to dose fertilizers, why not just follow the proven method in https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=21944 ? It does work, and once you get used to following it, you can begin to change it to better suit your tank and your needs.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 12:13 AM
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^+1

1-Don't use too much light, either in intensity or duration.
2-If you are using CO2 use as much as the fish and other critters are comfortable with.
3-Start out with the basic EI. Each week look very closely at the tank and switch it up or down slowly if desired.

Doing the water changes is a huge help.
Keeping the filter in good order is a big help.
Removing debris and dying leaves is a big help.
Plenty of oxygen is good for everything in the tank, keep a good ripple on the surface.
Water movement gets the CO2 and nutrients to the plant leaves.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 12:24 AM
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High CO2
High ferts
Low light

A lot of people seem to think low phosphates will cause GSA. There seems to actually be a correlation between MORE phosphate and LESS GSA. EI is slick because it is one less thing to worry about. After than you keep the light low, and the only thing you have to work on, the only thing that is HARD to get right, is CO2. Why think about light and ferts when they are easy peasy? Save your brain for CO2 when it is driving you bat crazy.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathyy View Post
^+1

1-Don't use too much light, either in intensity or duration.
2-If you are using CO2 use as much as the fish and other critters are comfortable with.
3-Start out with the basic EI. Each week look very closely at the tank and switch it up or down slowly if desired.

Doing the water changes is a huge help.
Keeping the filter in good order is a big help.
Removing debris and dying leaves is a big help.
Plenty of oxygen is good for everything in the tank, keep a good ripple on the surface.
Water movement gets the CO2 and nutrients to the plant leaves.
nicely put.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 01:43 AM
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Or you can look at the plants & algae. They'll tell you what you're doing wrong.

Too much light and not enough CO2 are usually the case for most plant issues.


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
Or you can look at the plants & algae. They'll tell you what you're doing wrong.

Too much light and not enough CO2 are usually the case for most plant issues.
This is certainly true if you follow the EI dosing method, because that eliminates nutrient deficiencies from the equation, leaving only light and CO2, plus, of course, water circulation, dissolved oxygen, and tank cleanliness. For people just starting out, with no fertilizing, plant issues can come from a lot of things.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 02:22 AM
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If you want to know what does you tank "eat" make sure you had the co2 at its best and measure nutrient levels right after dosing, a couple of days later, even better a week later measure again and substract to the first measurements.

Divide the difference by the amount of days between both tests and then you know what you need to provide daily.

This is not extremely accurate but will let you dose more specific.

I agree with everyone else that you should try an established method first, master it, then play mad scientist. Your tank needs to be lush and growing good and algae free to make this test possible.



Have fun!
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