PH remains constant overnight with CO2 injection - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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PH remains constant overnight with CO2 injection

Is it possible for PH to remains constant overnight with CO2 injection 24/7? That what happens to me, I have around 1+ bubbles per second CO2 and my PH is 7.2 every time I measure it. I measure daily in the morning before I turn on the light and at night before I turn the light off. Could it be that my bubbles rate each some sort of equilibirum point?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 08:57 PM
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I’m not positive, but I think this could be related to hardness / alkalinity. If your water has a relatively large amount of buffering capacity, you might not see a measurable swing, especially if you are measuring with a cheaper kit. Plant and fish density is also a factor. The more plants you have, the more CO2 they’re going to release during the dark cycle. Ditto for fish, but you also need to factor in their night time activity level, which is lower for most fish, thus less O2 need. In one of my tanks it took several weeks before I started to see a noticeable decline in PH (CO2) and I have VERY soft Seattle water. I assume it would have taken even longer with harder water.

PS - How are you diffusing the CO2?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 09:34 PM
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khoile:

If possible, please measure and post your pH, KH, and GH. From those values we can work out approximately how much CO2 you are working with using the tables (there is a sticky somewhere). If not posted elsewhere, could you please also include tank specs like size/light/nutrients.

Moved to Tucson.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 09:49 PM
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I have the SMS122 ph controller and the ph at lights out are at about 6.2
I have looked at the Controller all night every hour or so and the ph value
remains the same till lights on the next morning. (I unplugged the Controller from the solenoid so CO2 won't get injected.). I wanted to know how much of a ph swing would occur.

75G Planted,Pressurized CO2, ADA ,TEK T-5 Lighting (6X54W)
55G Planted, Shrimp only (Mix),P.CO2, eco/moon sand, 55WX2 AHS.
20G planted, Shrimp only(B.Bee), P.CO2, eco, 55W AHS kit in jebo fixture.
6G planted, Shrimp only(Tiger),P. CO2, eco, 14W AHS kit.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 10:02 PM
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Do you have any ripples in the water in the top of your tank? I didn't think I had much, but upon redirecting my spray bar at the bottom of my tank from pointing into the tank to spraying onto the back glass, my CO2 levels shot up and I had to reduce my bubble rate. I'm guessing you've reached some equilibrium where your injection rate is matching your outgassing rate and thus you don't see any changes.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2005, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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I do have slight ripples, I point my spraybar downward and that cause the ripples. I've updatd my signatures with all the info I know. Let me know there are other #s I need to add.


Thanks.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2005, 04:24 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khoile
I do have slight ripples, I point my spraybar downward and that cause the ripples. I've updatd my signatures with all the info I know. Let me know there are other #s I need to add.


Thanks.
I happend to read your sig and noticed your no3 at 0 and under you ferts you say you add a capfull of flourish weekly, You might want to start adding some NO3 before before you get hit with an algea problem specifically bga. You may be at a perfect equalibrium and be creating just enough nitrate to get by and its being used as fast as its made, but if you start getting algea that would be my first suspect. Considering your almost 0 fish load I would be adding at least 2 ppm then retest in a day or 2 and see how fast its uptake is.
P.S. I just ordered from Greg Watson and his service is absolutely top notch. I recieved my order very promply and his communication is just as great.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered some from gregwatson already, it should be here middle of next week. I'm buying 6-8 otos tomorrow to increase my fish load and decrease algae at the same time.

Also, another question on PH. If I add phosphate to the tank, does that mean the KH-PH-CO2 relationship is not accurate anymore? My phosphate is currently 2ppm, I'm not sure if it's because of the flourish dosing or just plainly from the tap water (I'll test the tap later). But either way, the present of phosphate mean KH-PH-CO2 relationship cannot be use as is anymore. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If in case it cannot be use, what is a better way to accurately measure CO2 level?

Thanks.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 11:00 AM
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Why would addition of phosphate change KH, pH, and CO2?

Just to clarify, Phosphate is PO4, pH (small "p" and Capital "H") is representation of acidity of the water.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 03:59 PM
 
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Mine only varies 0.2 during the night cycle. What are you using to measure pH? Test kits are not accurate to the tenth in general, so you may be having a swing and not seeing it if not using something with more resolution.
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