What is the best type of fertilizer? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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What is the best type of fertilizer?

I'm looking at starting to dose ferts in my tanks. A 55g, 15g, and when my husband gets it going, a 2g spec. I wanted to use liquid ferts because they seem the easiest, its already mixed so just quirt some in. I do have some dry ferts that were sent to me with a Rena filstar I bought on the SNS.

Plantex CSM + B (greenleafaquariums)
Potassium Sulfate K2SO4
Potassium Nitrate KNO3
Mono Potassium Phosphate KH2PO4

What am I missing? Or should I go with seachem or the soultions and root tabs that overstocked sells?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 11:57 PM
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You are all set! You could pickup some GH Booster(Seachem Equilibrium) and dose 3/4tsp weekly after your water change.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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My GH is already 16 drops + in these tanks, lol, do I really need to boost it?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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I should have looked at the dosing regimen post after I looked at what ferts I have, then I would have seen I had everything on there. But what is the trace that I'm also supposed to dose? And is there any change to dosing (more/ less amounts or times per week) when I'm running low and med lighting with no CO2?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 04:52 AM
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With all those nutrients and medium light, you will be co2 constrained. I would at least dose seachems flourish excel, which is a carbon that plants can use for photosynthesis. If you do not want to dose excel, I would drop down to fairly low light.

I did some research lately since I just setup my very first aquarium (I went with the dry fert method for versatility), and IF money is no object go here -- http://www.pfertz.com/products.html

Should have everything you need in liquid form.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Before I figured out I had all the dry ferts I need, I was actually looking at overstocked micro/macro/root tabs combo. Just because it seems so easy. I will probably dose less because I'm not running CO2 on these tanks. The simple solution one on the site you linked also looks really good to me (as in easy, lol)

I have a 2g that I will be putting CO2 on, I'm not sure what the lighting on it is since I dont have a par meter. But I will probably have to dose it closer to a normal routine.

Now I'm guessing that the trace that is mentioned so much is the micro's?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 09:51 PM
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IMO, the best type of fertilizer is the one you dose consistently. I'm pretty new to keeping a planted aquarium and decided liquid ferts were easiest for me since it takes a lot of the guesswork (or mathematics) out of the equation.

Others will say dry ferts are just as easier, and much cheaper.

Pick whichever dosing regime you think will be the easiest for you to stick with so you don't get lazy and under-fertilize your tank.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2011, 02:07 PM
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liquid ferts are great but why buy the water? mix yourself

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2011, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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The dry ferts I have were basically free. And they are easy enough to use. Sure I have to spend a couple minutes measuring the amounts for 4 tanks, but with the amount I'm using compared to what I have, it will last me years I think. Should I keep a smaller amount on hand and freeze the rest; like fish food?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2011, 08:27 PM
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Dry ferts are much cheaper and to me seem cleaner or free of any additives, why do store bought ferts have any color other than micros. I like to know exactly what I'm using and I make a micro & macro wet solution with a little excel to keep out any mold, I make 200 ml of each and they last 2 to 4 weeks. I don't use any Fe and find that Plantex CSM contains enough for my tank.

But why are so many people asking about dry ferts with only medium light and no C02, these tanks well rarely need any ferts. It seems the same people are dosing too much fert coupled with weekly water changes when they don't need to dose and the water changes should be every other month, otherwise algae problems are going to pop up. Low growth tanks with a medium to high fish load can survive on fish waste and adding a little K or Fe if a problem should arise.

I have a 150 with just above a medium load of fish and my plant mass is also in the medium mass area, so with C02 & med to high light I am only dosing the amounts for a 50 gallon tank with plenty of excess nutrients in the water column at the end of the week. None of my plants are really fast growers either so I don't need high amounts, you need to watch the needs of your tank by testing at the end of the week and then make your adjustments and each tank will be different, after you get it right you can stop testing, but low tech tanks don't need this much fert in the water column.


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