R/O water - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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R/O water

If I wanted to start using R/O water for my planted tank, do I need to add anything other than the regular doses of ferts?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 03:10 PM
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YES. RO water is not healthy for fish or plants...it's too stripped of its natural buffers. You'll have to use something to buffer it. There are commercial products out there, RO Right I think is one brand name.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 03:14 PM
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Another way is to add tap water to your RO until you reach a sufficient hardness.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 03:30 PM
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RO Right I think is one brand name.
Thats one, made by Kent

Seachem has Equlibrium

The real question is why do you want to use RO? Most of the time it is not at all needed for what we do. However it does allow you talior the water exactly as you desire.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 03:36 PM
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thanks gnatster.

Good point...why the need for pure R/O? yes its good for top-offs due to evaporation, and if you have really hard water, its the best way to soften it back up a bit.
But if you're injecting any CO2, you need at least 3 dKh of hardness to have enough buffering to prevent your pH from bouncing around like a yo-yo.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 06:57 PM
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RO right will take care of gh. You'll still need to use something for kh (I use baking soda).

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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I was just wondering if it would be worth it because my tap water has a hgih phosphate content. Any other ideas on how I could cure the problem?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 09:40 PM
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I use full RO water with RO right in all my tanks, but my cichlid tank. Water in my area comes out of the tap at 7.5 and runs up to 8.0 after sitting and is harder than solid rock. Also, it comes out with high phosphate levels out of the tap, but I forget what it was, since I checked it like a year ago. I have had no problems with PH bouncing around and have never had a crash due to too much C02. Of course, I use DIY C02 in all my tanks except the 75 gallon, which I use a Carbo Plus in, so you could say there isn't a problem with excessive C02. As for the GH, KH thing, RO right sets your KH at a reasonable level compared to your GH. I have my tanks at medium soft according to the RO right directions and the KH tested out at about 3.5, two days ago. If I were running my C02 at 25 PPM, that might be a problem, but since I am running it at closer to 10PPM, it works great.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Do you buy your R/O or do you make it? A store near me sells it for 1$ a gallon. can get expensive in the long run, no?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-20-2005, 11:02 PM
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Buy an RO unit, it will quickly pay for itself and make life much more convenient. Taste good too, no more buying drinking water.

But again, have you answered the question, why do you believe you need it?
I'll tell you flat out, plants don't care if it's soft or not, a few fish might, if you breed, generally it's not a bad thing for SA and a few others.

Blend with the tap water to mix
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-22-2005, 11:40 PM
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Plants may not need it, but lots of delicate softwater fish need it (ie. delicate Gouramis). If you're going with RO, I recommend you use Equilibrium..it raises Ca/Mg (gH), but it also gives you ~50ppm of K which means no need to dose K untill the next WC. You can then use Alkaline/Acid Buffer to target the pH you desire.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2005, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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I was just wondering if it would be worth doing because I have high phosphate coming out of my tap. I have a home filter for my house and that akes care of the GH and minerals.
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