Water change & water conditioner - Page 3 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2020, 08:26 PM
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I have 13 tanks running currently. South and Central America, Asia, and Africa all represented. I have a shower valve in the corner of the fish room that is adjusted down to ruffly 75F and the majority of my tanks run 80F. I hang my water fill device on the side of the tank which could be a 20g or a 29g or a 55g or 220g. I then start the water and add the approximate amount of Safe that I need according to how much water is being replaced. That could be 10-90%. 1/4 teaspoon of Safe treats 300g. I guess at what division of 1/4 teaspoon I need per tank.
I also have experience working for a custom aquarium installation and maintenance company in NYC. We followed the same practice of add the amount of declor for water changed if not using RO/DI water. We also added untreated water to aquariums if we were just topping off due to the amount of chlorine being diluted in the system and evaporated within 24hrs. No, chloromine does not evaporate.
I do not add chemicals to control ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I have BB for the first two and plants and water changes for the third. No chemicals means no carbon or chemi-pur either.

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post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ElleDee View Post
I hear what you are saying, but I think it's impossible to turn into actionable advice that is going to be safe for everyone.



There are major differences in water and the sensitivity of inhabitants that is going to affect what the minimum amount of water conditioner you actually need. My city says the water has about 2 ppm of chlorine and 2 ppm of chloramine and that the EPA says up to 4 ppm of *each* is allowable, so other people probably have more. (Obviously other countries have different rules, YMMV.) So, if you aren't dosing for the full tank size because it's unnecessary, what are you using to determine your dosage? And I assume that might work for you and your system, but how confident can you be that it would work for someone else's tank somewhere else?
I agree that it is going to be different for everyone, hence the very conservative dosing instructions from the manufacturers. My water has always been simple chlorine/hypochlorite, which is less persistent than chloramines, and I have always dosed anywhere from the recommended for water replaced (+plus a little extra) to not treating at all ( drip continuous water change setup), and haven't had any chlorine toxicity issues. That being said, I have not kept sensitive fish, and as you stated, your mileage may vary. It is my opinion that dosing to the full tank size is not well supported by the stoichiometry or kinetics of the reactions taking place based in my roughly 5 years of industrial experience with these kind of oxidants, and that the dosing instructions are given with an abundance of caution, as is usually the case with consumer products.

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post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by fishguy1978 View Post
I have 13 tanks running currently. South and Central America, Asia, and Africa all represented. I have a shower valve in the corner of the fish room that is adjusted down to ruffly 75F and the majority of my tanks run 80F. I hang my water fill device on the side of the tank which could be a 20g or a 29g or a 55g or 220g. I then start the water and add the approximate amount of Safe that I need according to how much water is being replaced. That could be 10-90%. 1/4 teaspoon of Safe treats 300g. I guess at what division of 1/4 teaspoon I need per tank.
I also have experience working for a custom aquarium installation and maintenance company in NYC. We followed the same practice of add the amount of declor for water changed if not using RO/DI water. We also added untreated water to aquariums if we were just topping off due to the amount of chlorine being diluted in the system and evaporated within 24hrs. No, chloromine does not evaporate.
I do not add chemicals to control ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. I have BB for the first two and plants and water changes for the third. No chemicals means no carbon or chemi-pur either.
i agree it is best to have a separate holding tank or in my case a 55 gallon barrel to to store the water prior to doing a water change. with this i can temperature match, air bubble, and add chemicals accordingly (prime initially with bubbling for 24-48hrs then flourish for the plants prior to usage) and use this as my replacement water for my water changes. it lessens the shock factor of dumping these chemicals in the "concentrated" tank then topping off with tap water. plus it gives you vessel to do the mixing in and if you mess it up you can fix it easier then if you had put it in your tank. i do this for all of my tanks with normal less demanding fish like angels and tetras to my more sensitive discus.
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