I woudln't call 10 or 15 ppm high - just higher than 0. Actually the 20 long went up to about 6 today (I tested before a water change). The TDS is a bit higher than the other tank - they average around 135 and this tank is 149 (tap is 120). I'll probably do a water change once every two weeks.
I'm ok with slow plant growth as long as the plants are happy - I just don't want to do anything too radical that upset the fishes. I'm using it to grow out some angels - the ottos are actually in their for quantine but their quarantine period passed and i decided it wasn't worth chasing them down (also one of them like to eat flakes a from the surface which i find quite amusing since i've never had an otto do that before (it swims between the angels upside down and sucks down the flakes).
My goal here is to ensure the platinum do well until i can move them out of the tank - everything else is secondary.
Dumb question (maybe):
Since you are getting high NO3 readings on your other tanks and zero on the subject tank, the first premise seems to be that, at least, the subject tank is very low on nitrates (maybe the cleaning is better and/or plant mass and livestock levels are different in the subject tank) and I greatly prefer the Salifert kit to the API (calibration is easy). So, why not simply add NO3/nitrogen until you get, and maintain, the desired NO3 reading?
Thanks - i'll adjust things a bit mostly move the floaters - i was worried about putting the bar on the back as the angels are not overjoyed with it - it is a nano 30 and the flow rate is 160 gph and i have it turned down about 30%. I should probably make the holes in the spray bar larger to reduce flow or face it towards the glass so it bounces off.
I do seem to get a lot of pearling whenever i add fertilizer - i should watch closer and see if it is happening at other times. I tend to watch most just after a cleaning to make sure everyone is happy and that is when i have cleaned the leaves and added fertilizer.
I'll move the floating plants - would putting an air stone in the gravel make things worse - also do i risk negative reaction by disturbing things? Other than the one spotch of cyano in the front things are going fairly well in that tank - well i wish the dwarf lily would stick with smaller leaves.
Yes, by adjusting circulation so that all around tank there is light breezy current flowing across sand layer it will push micro currents of oxygenated water into substrate and anaerobic activity will cease or at least wane considerably.
If that spraybar is blowing from right and getting slowed down by all those plants in front of it whole left end of tank is not getting enough circulation. I’d move that spraybar to back wall dead center blowing across top and hitting front wall which will create a mild current down front glass that will flush down across sand layer the whole width of tank. Move that mass of floaters down to right end out of way of spraybar.
How many gph is pump/canister?
I went ahead and ordered one of these and will compare it to my api kit. My api kit only has 1/2 dozen tests or so left... so it was time to order something.
I use the Salifert kit and find it to be more accurate based on my dosing than the API one.