Don't worry. You got your moneys worth with this test. But for starters can you update use on what fertilizers and other products you were adding to the tank when the water was sampled? Also were you using tap water and what was your water change schedule and how much water you change out?
The first thing you need to know is how this test is done and what it will and will not tell you. This test takes your sample and heats it up until it turns into a plasma. At this point each atom in the sample will give off light. The wavelength (color) and intensity is then measured with a spectrum analyzer and analyzed by a computer. It doesn't tell you what the molecules were in the water and if the elements were in there toxic or safe form. Also gases (H, O, N and others) are not listed in the the report because air and water contamination would produce very high values.
Your utility adds chlorine and or Chloramine to sterilize the water. Free chlorine in the water is dangerous to fish and people, same with Chloramine. however chloride salts like sodium chloride, potassium chloride are safe to fish people and plants. Calcium and magnesium chloride and many other chloride molecules may also be present. Water utilities typically use water tests that specifically look for free chlorine and chloramine and this value is reported in the water quality report. They generally don't test for chloride salts. Tap water is typically rich in chlorides. So the 98ppm level is not alarming in any way.
Your 26ppm sulfur is also of no concern. Also if you are sill using equilibrium keep in mind it is entirely made of sulfate salts. Now bacteria can converting the sulfates to HS or SO2. If those levels are high enough to be toxic the tank would smell bad. Also note some other GH boosters use chloride salts and water conditioners don't remove chlorine they just react with it to convert it to a safe chloride salt. If you add carbonate to control KH it should eventually bind with excess CL and SO2 to make more safety salts.
I have been looking at this test and am considering using it on my aquarium water but I haven't yet. Now this company was set up to analyze salt water tanks. So they definitely know what is right and wrong for salt water tanks. But they may not be that good at providing fresh water advice.
Any way when you look at a test like this a good place to start is to determine how much of each element you add in based on your fertilizer dose. You can use a fertilizer calculator to do that such as this one:
The other important thing to look for are zeros.
Let start at the macros. Your iron value is of 0.12 is just a bit higher than the 0.1ppm I dose in my aquarium. Boron of 0.07ppm is higher than 0.018ppm the fertilizer calculator list. CSM doesn't have boron when it leaves the factory. However aquarium shops do add add it so the high value in this report is probably not an issue. CSM does add about 0.001ppm copper and 0.006ppm Zinc. If you are using tap water the higher readings in your tank water make sense. Your Molybdenum levels also look OK. CSM doesn't provide nickel but your water has it. 0.001 should be sufficient but you level of 0.027 is much higher then I would expect. I don't know if Nickel is at a toxic level.
But the BIG red flag is Manganese. Your tap water doesn't have this and CSM should supply 0.029ppm. You have zero in the test results. CSM is not supplying enough Manganese. Many people that make there own macros dose at about 0.035. You need to supply more Manganese
For your macros potassium, Calcium, magnesium, sulfur and chlorine are all more than sufficient. I don't know what your Phosphate dose is so it might be OK or it might be high due to the Micro deficiency. As stated earlier the test doesn't provide any information on Nitrogen.
Note sodium, bromine, iodine, selenium, and vanadium are all animal and bacteria nutrients. All the others are not necessary for a healthy aquarium. Preferably we want to keep these unused element at tap water levels or lower. If they are higher they night be coming from your substrate. Some are definitely toxic if levels get high enough.
To boost manganese levels buy some manganese sulfate:
4 onces for $8 should last you a long time. Make a solution of 49ml of distilled water + 1ml of vinegar and 297miligrams of manganese sulfate (you will would need a scale). Add 1 ml at every water change plus your regular fertilizers.
If you don't have a adequate scale you can get this one:
It is probably not the best but it is low cost and has worked well for me.
Then for the next month be very consistent with your fertilization and the zinc dose, and water changes. Then send another sample out for a test. I would expect to see some nutrient levels drop and hopefully a non zero reading of manganese. Keep an eye on copper, zinc, molybdenum and nickel. if any of these go to zero you will also have to add them. I keep B, Zn both at 0.020ppm. in my aquarium. I keep my copper at 0.006 ppm and iron at 0.1ppm. I am thinking of using this test to refine my levels but I have not yet done that. After the second test you can do more test to further refine the levels.
Let us know how it goes. The later test results may be helpful to others.