Yes, few years back this combination of urea with NO3 was popular, NH4 with NO3 also. However, if we think about it, NO3 will appear in the water column regardless due to nitrogen oxidation. The question is why dose NO3 when portion of urea we dose will end up as NO3 anyway?
The assumption is that plants can get some of the Ammonia before the bacteria do, I am dosing very small amounts daily <0.2ppm daily. Barr wrote a paper about plant preference for Ammonia in small doses, i have also read a paper that Ammonium mitigates problems with high kh in strawberry plants. Also @happi
is a strong proponent of Urea/Ammonia so I thought I would try it.
Neither of those sources are definitive or conclusive, so I could always go back to pure NO3 one day. I have often wondered if Urea/Ammonia could cause the little bit of Fuzz algae I see on some of my plants and their old leaves.
Some time ago I have added Urea section
to my PPS website where I describe a direct replacement of PPS-Pro
with PPS-Pro Urea
for people who want to try it. It has the same elemental ratios and concentrations, only the nitrogen form comes in organic urea molecule instead of KNO3.
Yes I did some similar calculations except I am dosing 1.13ppm total N weekly(2.5ppm KNO3 and 2.5ppm(KNO3 Equivalent) weekly. (Half of everything in this table)
I was initially at (2.26N) (10ppm NO3 equivalent) and 0.32P(1ppm PO4 Equivalent) but I was seeing too much algae so I dialed it back to half(both macro and micros) and since then(~month) haven't seen any spot algae on the glass and not much on plants either. I dose 1/7 of the weekly amount daily.
I don’t know anybody who knows the answer. There are people experimenting with non-chelated trace elements for three years now or longer, changing ratios and concentrations up and down and back again and still not finding it.
and the high dosing 'dutch tank' people certainly are having success with non chelated Micros but my tank and dosing of Macros is much leaner and water much harder than theirs that is why I asked you.
I beleive too much Fe causes many wrong things in my tank(like hair algae) so I am keeping it as lean as possible. Overall my tap water makes it very difficult to dial in Ferts. Pogostemon Erectus and Rotala Rotundifolia still branch when they get near the top without being trimmed. I can't get the wine red out of Ludwigia Palustris either although it seems they get darker if I let them grow longer before trimming.
Well I like the control of measuring out my own fertilizer and not having potential uniformity issues but its a possibility for the future.
I could also just buy some EDTA and pretty much have the same and be able to control Micros better but before doing that I should just go to RODI water first.
It was always obvious that plants don’t need KH to be happy, even though I had to go through hell for posting it, I continued. These days, after a million failed attempts in hard water regions, we know high KH is detrimental to plants.
I have had loads of problems with even my moderate kh=5, that is why I am strongly considering a $400 RODI system, its just annoying to do the installation, drill holes in copper drain pipes, buy a bladder tank for under my sink , when I may move in 6 months.
I never advised anyone and never will this because of safety reasons, but you are a chemist and you know what you are doing.
I have burned many holes in lab coats cleaning glassware with HCL or NaOH in my lab days but I don't find HCL all that bad and I was dealing with 5M HCL much stronger than Muriatic Acid. But to lower kH I'd rather just go with RODI water no need to mess with HCL/Muriatic acid in my kitchen for a 17G tank! Based on my tap water report(and old copper pipes) I may have too much Copper in my water or other toxins so I'd rather just control everything than just lower kH. I may have no choice and just go with RODI water soon as I feel like even with many fertilizer tweaks many plants will still not be happy with my tap water.
Yes, I prefer the strongest light intensity I can get for shorter period of time. I have the strongest light in the hobby, undetectable PO4 and clean glass. Very strong light makes everything more dynamic, active, colourful and healthy. If you find the main photoperiod too short, add viewing lights with lower PAR.
I am not worried about the viewing period, I am running a Twinstar 600S on a dimmer so I run my 4 hours at 50% intensity ~100par at substrate on a timer. Then when I want to view the tank I can run the light at 10% manually for as long as I like.
I guess you just confirmed what I was doing already, short photoperiod at high par seems better.