Plants taking NH3 ammonia / NH4 ammonium before the bacteria is a major plus for plants. Plantís best nitrogen source is just that. If they donít have it they go for NO3 nitrate. The best part as I mentioned before, is plants take NH3 ammonia / NH4 ammonium 24 hours a day, unlike NO3 nitrate only during the day. This is why urea or fish waste (NH3 / NH4) are such good options to supply nitrogen to plants.
I was under the impression plants can uptake and store nutrients when lights are on or off and it doesn't matter when you dose. Could you please provide a source that supports your statement, that is an interesting difference.
Dosing urea works very well when there is not enough nitrogen produced by fish. Urea supplies not only NH4 but also carbon, CO2. Plants love it. Any urea overdose can be monitored by detecting NO3 in the water column.
I was under the impression Urea breaks down first to Ammonia so if anything I would be concerned with the Ammonia levels as to not cause a Bacterial or Algae bloom or poison fish.
It has been suggested to me that my entire source of N could be Urea but I have not tried that yet. What do you think the safe limit for concentration of Urea is that you can dose at one time?
Both, ADA Aqua Design Amano and Seachem use urea as a source of nitrogen.
It is suspected Tropica uses the reduced N source as well.
You are talking about red plants. They turn redder or red when they are not nitrogen overdosed and are getting sufficient light intensity. Even some green plants can do it.
Light, Nitrogen Levels, Fe Levels, and general health of the plant(I suspect the imbalance in P or K caused problems for color as well), and maturity of the leaves.
It seems my Ludwigia Palustris colors up more on larger mature leaves. I know it is not as simple as lower Nitrogen or increasing light I wish it were. (see my Journal).
CSM+B and uniformity issues.
Are you saying they dissolve all the elements to mix and then dry the solution to get uniform mixing? Otherwise I don't know how they could mix big batches uniformly for our purposes. The original CSM was meant as a bulk fertilizer, that was my concern, not the concentration of B.
But, when we talk about the EDTA+DTPA MicroMix by Plant-Prod distributed by GLA EDTA+DTPA MICROMIX we can be sure it is done properly and professionally. It is being manufactured to the specifications and not modified in any way by third party. Nobody is adding anything to it, it is a solid product.
If it is produced for the Aquarium hobby and meant to be dosed at low the concentrations that we do I beleive that product would not have the same issues.
For the light, I never had problems with high light intensity, 300 Ė 400 PAR no issues, thousands of PAR in upper areas no issues. What breaks the balance is duration, it may become too much accumulated light energy per day causing the problems.
I keep reading this statement, you, Dennis Wong, others, but it is so abstract and an unobtainable to me. I am meticulous with my husbandry by my tank balance is fragile I can't kick it into overdrive like that or I'll get deficiencies or algae. I am hoping with RO/DI water that things will be a little more forgiving. With my hard water I have to keep fertilizer lean or face algae or Lythraecae issues. Without more ferts I know I can't just pump up my lights to max (I could get 200par+).