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post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 05:12 PM
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It's 48 1/4" long, 12 3/4" deep and 21"high (without my 2.5" substrate bed)


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The light has a bit of height as well, so probably ~19-20" is your distance.
What is the model number of your light? ( I ask because Fluval lists the 36" and 48" with the same watts and number of Leds)
Thers is also a more powerful 48" that Fluval offers as well with more watts and leds.

If its the tops of amazon sword not the bottoms melting I am stumped as well. (Fish munching as well?)
I would move them to another spot in the tank and not use the root tabs anymore as a test.
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post #62 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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The light has a bit of height as well, so probably ~19-20" is your distance.

What is the model number of your light? ( I ask because Fluval lists the 36" and 48" with the same watts and number of Leds)

Thers is also a more powerful 48" that Fluval offers as well with more watts and leds.



If its the tops of amazon sword not the bottoms melting I am stumped as well. (Fish munching as well?)

I would move them to another spot in the tank and not use the root tabs anymore as a test.
https://www.kensfish.com/cgi-kensfis...8feeecb9b8e50e

The light is about 1" from the water surface

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post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the Wisteria before I trimmed it after I trimmed it, everything went down the drain, as well as the leaves I have to trim off my Amazon every 2 weeks.
Added a few pictures of after I cut the immersed growth off and replanted it in the back, can clearly see they get nibbled on


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post #64 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 03:04 PM
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https://www.kensfish.com/cgi-kensfis...8feeecb9b8e50e

The light is about 1" from the water surface

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As per your previous thread, you have high/med light, its almost 60 watts. Not comparable with Cara Wade's 36" light.
While it may exacerbate your algae issues, it doesn't explain the Swords melting or any plants not growing well. I'd move them to another part of the tank and forego the root tabs but as @Greggz said sometimes some plants just don't do well.
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post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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As per your previous thread, you have high/med light, its almost 60 watts. Not comparable with Cara Wade's 36" light.

While it may exacerbate your algae issues, it doesn't explain the Swords melting or any plants not growing well. I'd move them to another part of the tank and forego the root tabs but as @Greggz said sometimes some plants just don't do well.
Do you think if I uprooted the Wisteria and just floated it, woult it come back,, right now the fish just eat it?

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post #66 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:34 PM
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Do you think if I uprooted the Wisteria and just floated it, woult it come back,, right now the fish just eat it?

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Only if you put a scarecrow in the tank that scared the fish away from the plants.

All kidding aside if your fish are nibbling on your plants get rid of those plants or get rid of the fish. Doing anythingelse seems to be an excercise in futility.
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post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Only if you put a scarecrow in the tank that scared the fish away from the plants.



All kidding aside if your fish are nibbling on your plants get rid of those plants or get rid of the fish. Doing anythingelse seems to be an excercise in futility.
Any ideas on what's another low tech plant that's more hardy that uptakes nutrient as well as Wisteria /water sprite, I know Wisteria and water sprite are very fragile plants.

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post #68 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:54 PM
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Any ideas on what's another low tech plant that's more hardy that uptakes nutrient as well as Wisteria /water sprite, I know Wisteria and water sprite are very fragile plants.

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Use floating plants, Pistia, Frogbit etc. Those are big nutrient hogs and will act as a diffusor for light as well.
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post #69 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Use floating plants, Pistia, Frogbit etc. Those are big nutrient hogs and will act as a diffusor for light as well.
I dont want to shade the lower part of the tank, I finally got good stretch on my pearl grass , I was thinking about the roots of a pothos but I've read horror stories about them consuming all the nutrients and killing all the plants, any of these 3? I know nothing about your hardy they are, I know the leaves on water sprite and Wisteria are very easy to nibble on

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post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:49 PM
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What are the factors you need to consider when balancing in your tank and what is the one factor of those in your tank thats pretty much a constant that you have very little to no control over currently?

Which ones do you have control of?


Pennywort can make good high metabolism floating vine. You can attach a fishing line lasso on edge of tank and manage it there so it doesnít shade what donít want it to shaded. When it starts to creep to many runners out under your light you simply snip out nice new growth on end, cast the bulk of old growth away and re-tie shorter fresh new part of vine back exactly where you want it. When managed properly, which only takes about 8min every 7-14days, it only casts a very light shade just exactly where you want it. And man can it process waste and exchange gases. Once those lily pad leaves break water surface and have free access to all co2 and light they want they can really process ammonia and phosphate.

A nice piece tied up to left of input of your filter over crypt bal (?) would actually be perfect, maybe another one tied up in back right corner. Your little tetra etc will actually appreciate having a little floating cover, theyíll feel safer.

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