What kind of alge is it ? - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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What kind of alge is it ?

What kind of alge is it ?
Did I need to be budered...
I am just a week after green water alge that UV light solved .... little tiered from all that but trying to stay focused on target ...

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 11:30 PM
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Black Brush/Beard Algae (BBA), without a doubt.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 12:27 AM
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Yeah that's BBA alright, and you better get on it right away.

Can spread like mad if it likes the conditions, and based on the picture it does.


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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
Yeah that's BBA alright, and you better get on it right away.



Can spread like mad if it likes the conditions, and based on the picture it does.
There is a treatment? Or all out ?

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 05:26 AM
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I am no expert as I have not experienced BBA myself (knocking vigorously on my desk as I type this). That being said, I have read a few posts on it.

My advice (based upon what I have read) is:

Remove all that can be removed immediately. Looks like you can remove the affected rocks pretty easily. Treatment for the rest can be done with H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide 3%) applied with a syringe. From what I understand, you will need to turn off your filters and inject the H2O2 directly onto the algae. Let it boil for a bit (unsure of the exact dosage or time scale), then do a 50% water change before restarting your filters. The idea behind this is that the H2O2 will kill the beneficial bacteria in your filter if you do not let it do it's thing and then dilute it before restarting your filter. Some people have reported results with using Excel as well. Others have stated that a two prong approach is best. H2O2 treatment followed by Excel. Honestly, I do not know what is the best approach, but your case seems really bad and I encourage you to act sooner rather than later.

The next step is figuring out what exactly is providing the conditions that is encouraging it's growth. There is a balance between light, ferts, and CO2 (if you are using it) that must be maintained to encourage plant growth and discourage algae. More often than not, high ferts (or bio-load from your fish) and high light with not enough CO2 provides what the algae needs and does not provide the resources (CO2) for the plants to compete against it.

I am hoping that those more knowledgeable than I are going to post up here and give you their advice.
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Last edited by AguaScape; 01-31-2019 at 05:37 AM. Reason: Edit
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 06:16 AM
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If your light and co2 is high and this is happening, get on your macro ferts asap.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 06:17 AM
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Bba can be a pain to get rid off. @AguaScape pretty covered all the details. Remove hardscape from your tank and take a spray bottle with h202 or excell. Trim or remove plants that are smothered with bba. Remove all in tank equipment and spray with h202. Leaves and plants that aren't completely covered with bba, you can spot treat with h202 in tank. Some people leave filters on others dont. But the main thing is keep lots of circulation in your tank when using high dose spot treatments. I personally have used 1ml per gal of h202 without any I'll effect to plants and livestock. Do all of this during a water change, the more plants you can expose to air and spray h202 the better. Do a very thorough cleaning of your gravel, glass, equipment. Siphon out water before you start treatment and save it, to put your filter media in while you clean your filter and hoses. If you got 1 of them pipe brushes use it, if not I have filled the inside of the disconnected filter hoses with excel and h202 and that works well too. Within a day or so you will notice all the bba turn red, than white dead. Usually at that point your fish or snails will eat it, or the bba will flake off over time. During the week you should lower your photo period and you can continue spot treating with lower doses. Your next water change do another thorough cleaning. By this point you will have things under control. Now it's time to find what's causing it and go into preventive measures.

I prefer h202 over excel, not only because its cheaper but excel can negative effects on some plants when applied directly. I haven't seen any negative effects using h202 on plants even when I sprayed roots. It is also much easier to over dose excel or metricide.

Be persistent and good luck.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Bba can be a pain to get rid off. @AguaScape pretty covered all the details. Remove hardscape from your tank and take a spray bottle with h202 or excell. Trim or remove plants that are smothered with bba. Remove all in tank equipment and spray with h202. Leaves and plants that aren't completely covered with bba, you can spot treat with h202 in tank. Some people leave filters on others dont. But the main thing is keep lots of circulation in your tank when using high dose spot treatments. I personally have used 1ml per gal of h202 without any I'll effect to plants and livestock. Do all of this during a water change, the more plants you can expose to air and spray h202 the better. Do a very thorough cleaning of your gravel, glass, equipment. Siphon out water before you start treatment and save it, to put your filter media in while you clean your filter and hoses. If you got 1 of them pipe brushes use it, if not I have filled the inside of the disconnected filter hoses with excel and h202 and that works well too. Within a day or so you will notice all the bba turn red, than white dead. Usually at that point your fish or snails will eat it, or the bba will flake off over time. During the week you should lower your photo period and you can continue spot treating with lower doses. Your next water change do another thorough cleaning. By this point you will have things under control. Now it's time to find what's causing it and go into preventive measures.

I prefer h202 over excel, not only because its cheaper but excel can negative effects on some plants when applied directly. I haven't seen any negative effects using h202 on plants even when I sprayed roots. It is also much easier to over dose excel or metricide.

Be persistent and good luck.
Done...
Cause there is no other plants right now... should I power the light and co2 ? What do you think will be best to prevent algee again ?

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 05:07 PM
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Nice, you got on it right away. If you can post more information about your tank.Type of Lights, photo period , parameters, fertalizers and dosing, ph before and during co2. More members will chime in and give you some advice. But now you have it under control, it is much easier to solve the cause. Well done.


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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 06:57 PM
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IME, BBA is usually caused by too much light, too many dissolved organics (dirty conditions/poor tank maintenance), too much flow, and unhappy plants. Unhappy plants can be the result of not enough ferts, not enough CO2, or too much light (and even too little). Personally I have never seen high fert levels bring on BBA, usually it's the opposite, too little.

I remember you had another thread going for a while. Are you still dosing very lean? If you have high light and good CO2, your plants could be starving.

If I were you, I would spend some time seeking out journals of folks who have similar goals to yours. Many do a great job of documenting their tank with great detail and lots of pictures. Seeing is believing, and personally I put a lot more stock in advice from those who have demonstrated some success. Study their methods, and you will get many of your answers.

If you can get to a good balance of CO2/light/ferts/maintenance, you should find you don't need Excel, H2O2, or even algae eaters. But it takes some effort to get the details of each optimized. It can be a bit complicated, but I have found there is no short answer that fixes everything.


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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Greggz View Post
IME, BBA is usually caused by too much light, too many dissolved organics (dirty conditions/poor tank maintenance), too much flow, and unhappy plants. Unhappy plants can be the result of not enough ferts, not enough CO2, or too much light (and even too little). Personally I have never seen high fert levels bring on BBA, usually it's the opposite, too little.



I remember you had another thread going for a while. Are you still dosing very lean? If you have high light and good CO2, your plants could be starving.



If I were you, I would spend some time seeking out journals of folks who have similar goals to yours. Many do a great job of documenting their tank with great detail and lots of pictures. Seeing is believing, and personally I put a lot more stock in advice from those who have demonstrated some success. Study their methods, and you will get many of your answers.



If you can get to a good balance of CO2/light/ferts/maintenance, you should find you don't need Excel, H2O2, or even algae eaters. But it takes some effort to get the details of each optimized. It can be a bit complicated, but I have found there is no short answer that fixes everything.
It is about 2 years of trying and learning. And that year I tried to work with all the knowledge and I got every algee existing on the planet ...hehehe...

I think low maintenance is not the issue...i am guessing the BBA happened due to a low light while the green water algee was visiting . (Maybe I'm wrong). IT was a period of
a month with no UV filter that finished the green water algee issue but makes the plants RIP and the BBK come to visit.
Now the issue is the lake of plants must change my routine of light and dosing . I think with that amount of plants in 350 liter water... I need to lower the light and dosing . I also stopped the co2 till the plants will grow.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 04:07 PM
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What type of fertalizers and dosing are you using? Lowering your light or photoperiod is a good idea. But lowering your ferts and turning off co2, can or more likely will cause more issues. The best defense against algae is a very clean tank and equipment with healthy growing plants. Algae is opportunistic, and will capitalize, when the environment is not favoring healthy plant growth. Focus on growing healthy plants, instead of fighting algae and you more than likely will over come.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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What type of fertalizers and dosing are you using? Lowering your light or photoperiod is a good idea. But lowering your ferts and turning off co2, can or more likely will cause more issues. The best defense against algae is a very clean tank and equipment with healthy growing plants. Algae is opportunistic, and will capitalize, when the environment is not favoring healthy plant growth. Focus on growing healthy plants, instead of fighting algae and you more than likely will over come.
Dosing Making from powders
14 ppm NO3, 1.4 ppm PO4, 18 ppm K, 1.4 ppm Mg, 0.7 ppm Fe(TE)

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 06:05 PM
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Welcome back gilya
It does look better since we changed a few things.

We increased light from PAR 30 to PAR 60, to 2 sets of 2x T5 54W.
We changed photoperiod from 2 hours morning and 4 hours evening to 7 hours a day.
We didn’t have enough CO2.
We didn’t have KH solution in drop checker.
We didn’t have algae cleaning crew.
We increased water changes from 30% to + 50% weekly.
We didn’t have plant nutrients or fertilizer.
We have now 14 ppm NO3, 1.4 ppm PO4, 18 ppm K, 1.4 ppm Mg, 0.7 ppm Fe(TE)

To continue, can you please test your aquarium NO3, PO4 and TDS, and tap TDS? If your NO3 or PO4 test reads zero follow post #64 above. Sometimes the NO3 test solutions need a strong shake to get proper readings.
To continue, can you please test your aquarium NO3, PO4, TDS, and tap GH, KH, TDS? If your NO3 and PO4 tests still read zero please follow post #64.

Post #64:
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... add 50 drops of PPS-Pro solution #1 in 10 L of tap water and test for NO3, it should read 10 ppm. This will verify your fertilizer and also the test kit colour accuracy. If you want, you can test PO4 as well, it should read 1 ppm.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 08:22 PM
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I need to lower the light and dosing . I also stopped the co2 till the plants will grow.
Lower dosing and no CO2 sounds like a sure recipe to kill the plants you have left.

Plants need light, CO2, and ferts to grow. Think growing plants, not defeating algae.

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Dosing Making from powders
14 ppm NO3, 1.4 ppm PO4, 18 ppm K, 1.4 ppm Mg, 0.7 ppm Fe(TE)
Just curious, how did you pick these levels?

Have you seen a successful tank here dosing these levels?

And is your lighting 4x54W T5HO? If so, that is a lot of light. More light equals more need for CO2 and ferts. I would be raising them not lowering them if I were you. Algae loves starving plants.


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