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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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PPS-Pro Dosing Method

Hello,

I recently started a 40 gallon breeder planted aquarium and we have been experiencing some different types of algae algae. I have attached pictures of the different types of algae for your reference.

Equipment Setup
  • Tank is a 40 Gallon Breeder
  • 2 - Finnex planted+ 24/7 lights 30" version (set to 24 hour mode) I believe these are 36 Watt units and are setup 6 inches above the tank.
  • Fluval 306 Canister filter with inline CO2 diffuser
  • Pressurized CO2 is set at ~1.5bps and the CO2 drop checker is a solid green, turns on at 6AM and shuts off at 6PM

5mL of the Micro and Macro are dosed daily before the lights come on.

Micro
  • 1200mL of distilled water
  • 120g CSM + B
  • 0.75g Ascorbic Acid
  • 0.3g Potassium Sorbate
  • Topped off to 1500mL

Macro
  • 1200mL of distilled water
  • 99g Potassium Nitrate
  • 9g Monopatassium Phosphate
  • 87g Potassium Sulphate
  • 60g Magnesium Sulphate
  • Topped off to 1500mL

Water Parameters
  • pH = ~6.8
  • GH = 180 ppm
  • KH = 120 ppm = 6.7 dKH
  • Nitrite = 0 ppm
  • Nitrate = 20 ppm
  • TDS (TAP) = 185
  • TDS (Tank) = 237
  • EC (Tap) = 330 uS/cm
  • EC (Tank) = 480 uS/cm
  • 50% Water change weekly

Lighting - Par Rating
Time - PAR rating
  • 3 AM - 0
  • 6 AM - 2
  • 9 AM - 5-6
  • Noon - 53-55
  • 3 PM - 58* (about Max*)
  • 6 PM - 7
  • 9 PM - 5
  • Midnight - 0


Livestock
  • 10- Amano Shrimp


Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.








Last edited by dboisvert; 12-31-2018 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Added more information
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 06:20 PM
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Excellent description, can you add water change routine, CO2 timing, and light PAR intensity with duration.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Of course!

Water Change routine has been 50% once per week, but I have been considering changing to a less frequent and lower amount.
CO2 Timing is that it comes on at 6AM and shuts off at 6PM

Fertilizer dosing happens at 7AM

Here is a par curve I found from another user's review of the lighting fixture.
Finnex 24/7 Full Review

Time - PAR rating
  • 3 AM - 0
  • 6 AM - 2
  • 9 AM - 5-6
  • Noon - 53-55
  • 3 PM - 58* (about Max*)
  • 6 PM - 7
  • 9 PM - 5
  • Midnight - 0

These measurements were taken from another review in a 16" deep tank (almost same depth as mine)
Keep in mind that I have 2 of these lights and they are ~19" from the substrate ( I suspended them above the tank)
There is also a glass canopy on the top of the tank

Last edited by dboisvert; 12-31-2018 at 07:58 PM. Reason: -forgot to add the bit about the glass canopy
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 09:24 PM
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The hairgrass would grow much healthier with optimal CO2. In fact, it's quite a challenge growing it in a low energy tank. Your bubble rate tells me that you are probably not injecting enough CO2 and I assume that's why you're running low intesity lighting on a slowly ramping light schedule. I've had some success growing in eco-complete when I was running at around a bubble every 2 seconds on a 5 gallon tank with really good distribution. I was also dosing based on PPS levels but had a pretty overstocked tank with 9 amanos, a betta, and half a dozen nerites.... all in 4 gallons of actual water. I did weekly 50% WC at the time as well. I couldn't tell you the actual PAR rating but I'd guess it was well at 70-80 PAR at the substrate level based on specs of light and my dimmer setting.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 11:59 PM
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The macro fertilizer solution solubility is at its 100% limit. I usually use up to 80% so everything dissolves. When you look at your macro solution, is there any precipitation?

In terms of the actual concentrations, you are adding daily
1.58 ppm NO3
0.16 ppm PO4
2.08 ppm K
0.15 ppm Mg
0.18 ppm Fe(TE)

Concentration limits at 50% weekly water changes
22.1 ppm NO3
2.3 ppm PO4
29.1 ppm K
2.2 ppm Mg
2.45 ppm Fe(TE)

I would not add more nutrients there is no heavy plant mass to use it. And, there is too much trace elements, I would dose half of that.

Your CO2 is not bad but I would leave it on without interruption. It takes 24 to 48 hours to saturate. And you need some aeration.

For lowering water changes as you mentioned, follow your TDS. It will tell you.

Now light. I think your plants suffer from insufficient light energy. You need to blast them with all you have while limiting duration and not breaking them. The glass canopy between light fixture and the water is killing the light, it needs to go.

The last point is snails, Ramshorn snails. Your plants will not recover when being choked by algae and Periphyton. You need snails to clean it up.

Do you have your city waterworks report?


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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There is very little precipitation in the macro mixture. Definitely less than 1/2 tsp sitting in the bottom.

I've lowered the micro dose down to 3mL (I can only go in 1mL increments with my automatic dosing system).

After reading on your site about why you should leave CO2 on 24/7 it makes sense to me. I will get an air stone setup and change the CO2 to run 24/7. The basic concept is that the air stone adds enough oxygen at night that fish will survive even with CO2 being dosed.

I want to make sure I am understanding the TDS readings and how that effects water changes, correctly.
So for my tank my tap water reads around 330 uS/cm, my daily dose of NO3 would be ~9.5uS, and my target level is 22ppm. So then 330uS + 9.5uS*22 = ~540uS
If I had a reading of 600uS then I would want to bring it back to 540uS with a water change. (600 * .75 + 330*.25) = ~532, So I would want to do a 25% water change.

The glass canopy has been removed.

I have ordered some Ramshorn snails.

City Waterworks report is as follows
  • TDS (mg/L) - 177
  • pH (scale=0-14) - 7.91
  • Hardness (mg/L as CaCO3) - 158
  • Alkalinity (mg/L as CaCO3) - 127
  • Non-Carbonate Hardness (mg/L as CaCO3) - 31
  • Calcium (mg/L) - 44
  • Magnesium (mg/L) - 12
  • Sodium (mg/L as Na+) - 9
  • Sulfate (mg/L as SO4)
  • Chloride (mg/L as Cl-) 14
  • Fluoride (mg/L) - 0.76
  • Turbidity - 0.05
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dboisvert View Post
There is very little precipitation in the macro mixture. Definitely less than 1/2 tsp sitting in the bottom.
What if the precipitation is P and plants donít have enough.

The city waterworks report says 12 ppm Mg which is more than enough. You donít need any MgSO4 in the fertilizer so if you wonít use it you will have proper solubility of 87% instead of 100%. This will fix the precipitation issue.

Lowering micro dosing from 5 ml to 3 ml will change daily dose from 0.18 ppm to 0.11 ppm Fe(TE).

Aeration is good for many reasons but airstone removes precious CO2 at very rapid rate. That is not what we want, we want to saturate the water column and achieve consistent levels. I found internal sponge filter driven by air pump with 90į outlet at the water level the most sufficient in terms of oxygenating water and conserving CO2. As an additional benefit it also serves as a surface skimmer.

TDS is a comparative tool, it tracks changes.
Your tap comes with TDS value. Adding fertilizer increases this value. Also, substrate, rocks and decorations do and most elements that dissolve increase this value. So what we want is to maintain consistent value. This is done by balancing, fertilizing and dissolving materials keep increasing it, plants and water changes keep lowering it. Experience will show what amount and frequency of water changes is the most effective.

For example, if we donít add fertilizer for three days and we see TDS rising then it indicates something dissolving or leaching in the water column. This has to be taken in consideration as non-fertilizer related TDS increase and include it in the water change rates.

The other part of TDS increase is produced by fertilizers. This should be balanced by creating ratio between fertilizer amount and water change rates.


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