Nothing against parameters - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Nothing against parameters

I seem to avoid parameters nowadays. It had seemed to cause me more issues than good. I just keep a close watch and make adjustments as needed. There are members here on the forums that I look up to and follow. Greggs,Burrs. Xiao
Maryland just to name a few. I know they keep good legs of parameters. But that style just doesn't work for me. I make fert dosing adjustments by the 1/8tsb, light adjustments by 30 minutes, and co2 adjustments by the slightest turn of the needle valves,while trying to keep the livestock happy and healthy. Just wondering if my method is bad, or causing me to have a longer learning curve,as if I were to dedicate myself to strict parameters?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 10:34 AM
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I don't test a lot but once in a while I detect a lack of something.
Usually it is PO4 for me but somwtimes NO3.
EI dosing pretty much but capped soil can be a bit different.

I try to pick one tank every other week and give it the full round of testing.
Keeps me in check!
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Growing is not that difficult.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KZB View Post
I seem to avoid parameters nowadays.
You can't avoid parameters. You are just adjusting yours with a different methodology. So you have parameters, you just don't know precisely what they are.

If that's working for you, and you have reached your goals with the tank, then no need to change.

Now that being said, I think one of the best things someone newer to the hobby can do is to start thinking in different terms.

With dosing, start thinking ppm vs tsp. It' a more universal language for dosing, and will help you better understand your dosing compared to others.

With light think PAR. If you can't measure it, try to look it up or use a calculator like Rotalabutterfly to estimate it. PAR is the engine that drives everything else, and knowing it helps to diagnose problems.

And with CO2, think pH drop from degassed value, not turns of a knob. If you find the sweet spot, you want to have a methodology to dial it back in if it strays.

But like I said, if whatever you are doing is working and you are happy, then I wouldn't change a thing.


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 02:20 PM
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Quick question - How do you test the PH, KH, GH of your tap water....Do you fill a bucket and leave for 24 hours and then test..Do you have to use an air stone?
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. Guys. A question for Greggz, I wouldn't mind testing parameters again. But I hear so many stories of the test being faulty. Could you give me some pointers on which test works best and or how to calibrate them? Right now I have api test kits. I have a ph pen that I need to pick up some calibration solution for.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KZB View Post
Thanks for the response. Guys. A question for Greggz, I wouldn't mind testing parameters again. But I hear so many stories of the test being faulty. Could you give me some pointers on which test works best and or how to calibrate them? Right now I have api test kits. I have a ph pen that I need to pick up some calibration solution for.
Went over this same topic in another thread earlier today. Like I said there, it depends on how deep into the weeds you want to go.

Good idea to calibrate the pH pen. To degas a sample I run a bubbler into a glass over night.

For test kits, I prefer the Salifert for NO3 and the API for PO4. I tested them side by side in my journal a while back here..........................

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...2018-a-56.html

If you want to make reference solutions I uploaded the directions to the Google Drive where the other shared documents are located.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CI...JZdxESN07exBsu

If you want advice from others on dosing, or want to compare yours to others, you should calculate your dosing to ppm. If you haven't learned how to use either the Rotalabutterfly or Zorfox calculators, you should.

And you might consider starting a journal. I'm sure many would enjoy seeing what you have going. It's a great way to share, learn, and become more active in the hobby.


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Last edited by Greggz; 11-04-2018 at 10:30 PM. Reason: typo
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much Greggz. This tremendous amount of help.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 07:02 PM
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Tried to start a new thread but was unable - sorry to piggy back

I tested my tap water for the following after letting it sit for 24hrs

PH 8. 2 light purple color

KH 7

GH 9

Will I have any possible challenges growing plants like Ludwigia, Rotala and easy stems plants with C02, inert gravel with EI dosing..
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 12:31 AM
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Tried to start a new thread but was unable - sorry to piggy back

I tested my tap water for the following after letting it sit for 24hrs

PH 8. 2 light purple color

KH 7

GH 9

Will I have any possible challenges growing plants like Ludwigia, Rotala and easy stems plants with C02, inert gravel with EI dosing..
Those numbers are fine for just about anything.
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