Yes you can account for all of that but does it need to be that accurate a mix? The calcium magnesium level can and does very quite a lot in nature seasonally. Furthermore if you calculate exactly how much is need for a given amount of nitrate added you find the tank only need about 1 degree for plants. I don't know exactly how much shrimp needs but people are seeing reproduction in a wide variety of GH values..
If you want reproducible and comparable results yes. If you want a ration of 4:1 by mass, yes. If we do not want to measure, why use spoons then? Why not just use our eyes as we dose from the bag? I have used this method and it worked. Can I say what was inside and reproduce the failure or success? Never.
As plants consume sulfur in the Gh booster Carbonates are generated in the water.
Could you detail on the process? I assume by sulfur you actually mean sulfates, but why would this increase the carbonates in water? Is there a reference for this process? I know some plants are able to use carbonates to generate CO2 but exchange SO4 with CO3?
its not a lot in my tank but it is 2 degrees. I also have some old snail shells in the aquarium which are made of calcium carbonate. if the water goes acidic these will start to dissolve and as it does it counteract the acidity. The shells stop dissolving at a PH of 7. They therefore work to prevent the pH from dropping and will not push the PH above seven. Other things in the aquarium can push the PH up above 7 and the snail shells will not stop that. But for most people sudden shift to acidic conditions are a concern. In my aquarium the PH is typically 6.5 to 7. In my experience the combination of decorative snail shells and the KH from sulfate consumption is sufficient to maintain a stable PH of 7. If you want to maintain a lower PH you might need a buffering substate or CO2 injection but those will cost a lot more to implement and may require you to remove any shells in the aquarium.
All the things you describe above may happen but take place slowly over a long time. If you add a high % of ro water to a tank with sensitive fauna and wait for the carbonates to come from shells, some will die. If you want water with a pH below 7 just leave RODI water exposed to air. The CO2 and other gases will dissolve and lower the pH
is this not closely related to EI anyway where we donít have to be exact and canít be due to various factors of the home lab environment?
Chemistry isnít my strongest subject, but want to be in control of my tank
EI is about dosing enough nutrients so that they are non-limiting to plant growth. The approximation is in estimating the concentration that is non-limiting, not in not knowing how much you are really adding to the tank.
The mass of fertilizer that you dose using spoons will vary greatly between spoons, between salts and between users. I could have a very fine caso4 and have 2g in one teaspoon, while another more coarse will be 1.5g. We both come to the forum and say we dosed 200mg/L but we have very different results. You measure once and measure the same again yet the second time you run into a deficiency...
So to sum up if you dose using teaspoons you should say that you should not say you add 20mg/L No3 as this is false. You could say you dose somewhere between 5-60mg/L. If you want to have repeatable result weigh your solid fertilizers. If you want to compare dosage values, weigh your solid fertilizers. If you can afford a scale do the sensible thing and weigh your solid fertilizers. Be in control.
Calcium Sulphate Heptahydrate - 55gm
Magnesium Sulphate (Espom Salt) MgSO4- 37gm
Potassium Sulphate (aka Sulphate Of Potash) K2SO4 - 11gm
Iron Sulphate (optional) FeSO4 - 0.30gm
Manganese Sulphate (optional) MnSO4- 0.16
I think you mean calcium sulfate hemihydrate. Epsom salt is the heptahydrate form, aka MgSO4*7H2O. These things will influence how much you want to use. The unchelated forms of iron and manganese will quickly be taken out of solution at most aquariums pH. Thus, they will not provide any nutrition for plants.
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