Anything dosing wise I should do or not do ?
Well your water doesn't has insignificant levels on Nitrogen and phosphorous and potassium levels appear low. No information is available in the report regarding plant micro nutrients except chlorine (which is sufficient) As for the rest of the macro nutrients calcium, magnesium, and sulfur you water has a decent amount.
Make sure you have a decent test kit for the water (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH ) and I would consider getting a phosphate test kit. and a GH tests kit. API sells kits for these. I personally don't like color charts and I found the API phosphate test kit difficult to match colors at low phosphate levels. Other manufactures do make phosphate test kits and you might want to consider trying one of those. Personally I purchased a Hanna iInstruments HI713 Phosphate checker. It costs more than a typical test kit ($50) but there is no color chart and it is highly accurate. If they sold a nitrate Checker I would get that to, but they don't.
Other than that for a low tech setup Brightwell Aquatic Florinmulti is a fertilizer I would consider using. It doesn't have nitrogen or phosphorous. in many tanks nitrogen and phosphate from fish food is enough. Good levels to aim for for are between 5 to 20 ppm for nitrate. and about 1 ppm for phosphate. If your nitrate or phosphate are too low get potassium nitrate and or potassium phosphate fertilizers to supplement for your plants.
If you wish to use estimative indexing with CO2 and bright lights for more rapid plant growth, I would use the standard EI fertilizers CSM+B for trace and potassium nitrate, and potassium phosphate but I would also supplement that with with sachem Equilibrium. Your water may not have enough sulfates for rapid plant growth and all EI fertilizers I have seen don't have calcium. Boosting your water hardness by 1 to 2 degrees with Sachem Equilibrium would be enough to insure you don't run out of calcium and sulfates.
the wild card to me seems to be the wide PH swings. How and why for the swings would be of interest but I might wonder when setting up a tank using PH 6.0 and then at times finding PH 9.17?
Most water utility districts have multiple sources of water with multiple water treatment facilities and they check the levels at multiple places in the district. One side of the district may have a different PH than a place on the other side of the district that uses a different water source from a different water treatment facility. This is entirely normal. The report doesn't say that the PH is swinging a lot. It is just saying that among all the places they sampled they got a range of 6 to 9.7. Most other water districts typically just list the average instead of the range. Their operational guidelines state they try to keep the water between 6.5 and 8.5. I suspect that after a couple of months of monitoring the PH with an aquarium test kit you would see a stable reading with no big swings.