I am unclear why you are waiting at all.
I regularly do 50% water changes on 5 tanks ranging from 40 to 125 gallons.
I drain 50% of the water using a Python.
I turn the Python to fill mode and start adding water straight into the aquarium.
I dose the aquarium with Safe or Prime.
Can add tap water to pail,add PRIME, and be ready for that water to be used in 5 or 10 min.
No need to let water set for 10 hours.
Thank you Robn / roadmaster, didn't notice that you can add prime treated water within 5-10mins. Good to know.
Originally Posted by Redneck tenner
The stingray should be 35 par at 12 in. Your at thirteen but with extra light you should have decent par. Enough that you need to get nutrients balanced. Co2 seems low. Hard to say by bps but...0.5?
Gsa...need maybe check phosphates. Bba could be low co2 isue.
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I used only a stingray previously, but had massive narrow fern die off in Jan/Feb due to insufficient par / lowlight. I thus added another strip of light at the rear and move the finnex closer to the front to illuminate the eleocharis parvula (they were added 2 weeks back). The massive die off could have trigger the algae then. I do see lower BBA growth since the dead leaves were all removed a month back.
Am dosing 1/3 of 1/32 teaspoon of Potassium Phosphate hydro, but that resulted less GSA but more brown algae ...
As I understand the chemical reaction, it is almost instant. The only delay is in the two parts finding each other. And that is where diffusion comes into play. It has been explained like this for my slow brain?
If we go looking for our girl at a party of ten, we find her fine. But if it is a party of one hundred, we may need ten friends to find her in the same amount of time.
So if we treat in a bucket before adding to the tank, the two parts get together quickly. But if we add the same amount of dechlor to the main tank which is far larger without using more dechlor (friends?) the ammonia may not be found before there is some danger of the chlorine latching onto a fish instead!
We want the Prime finding the ammonia before something else happens.
But I also see no problem with treating the water long before it is added to the tank. I change water from a barrel reservoir and then refill, treat and store the water for as much as a week without signs of ammonia coming back. In this way, I always have treated water of the right temp on hand for quick changes if needed.
Thanks will take note it's that fast. Thank you for confirming.
So I'm no expert on high tech tanks... stick to the low tech myself. But your tank looks really good IMO, I can't really see much algae in the picture, but maybe it's worse IRL?
Since the tank has only been running for about 4 months, that might be what you're initial problem is. I know that with my first tank, I had terrible BGA for MONTHS before the tank started to even out. Now I have very few problems with algae at about 9 months. Even if a tank is cycled, doesn't mean it's going to be perfect algae-wise for awhile after the initial start-up.
Also, how big is that tank? Seems pretty big for the bioload you currently have. You could bump up the number of cherries and nerites, or add fish! I've heard that low bioload can contribute to algae problems, but I have no source for this info haha
Thank you for your compliment. My tank is a hybrid low light with co2, so I presume that things will grow slowly. The pressurized co2 is there to ensure consistency to prevent algae outbreak. I wouldn't be adding fish anytime soon due to the recent incident in an earlier thread....