Fine tuning my dosing, need input. - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Fine tuning my dosing, need input.

Hello guys and girls.
I am in the process of trying to fine tune my dosing regime.
I am using EI as a base.
Currently dosing from a dosing pump and dosing Macros (KNO3, KH2PO4) the macro dose is 5/6 of a normal dose from the Rotala Butterfly calculator and Micros (TNC Trace) the micro dose is halved using Fe 0.1ppm as proxy. Will eventually add some TNC Iron to add another 0.1ppm Fe as well when the rest is tuned in.
Have been taking measurements this entire week from both my tanks a 110L and a 450-500L. They are dosed exactly the same way with the same stuff only difference is that the smaller tank is dosed daily instead of with intervals like the big one. The dosing pump for the smaller is not possible to setup dosing alternating days.
The reason for measuring was really only to measure the GH and how it changes through the week between the water changes (around 50-60%). I had less then 1 dGH earlier which I figured wasn't very good, so I started adding GH Booster. I was also trying a premixed Trace mix from Aqua Rebell and got a blank reading for Fe when I tested.

Anyway here is how it has progressed




110L & 450-500L
Sunday - <1 dGH | <0.02 ppm FE | Performed WC and added GH booster to raise the GH by 5 degrees
Monday - 5 dGH | <0.02 ppm FE (Macro day)
Tuesday - 4 dGH | <0.02 ppm FE (Micro day)
Wednesday - 4 dGH | <0.02 ppm FE (Macro Day) | Switched back to TNC Trace and added a 0.2ppm FE dose
Thursday - 4 dGH | 0.15 ppm FE (Micro Day) | Halved the target dose to 0.1 ppm Fe
Friday - 4 dGH | 0.2 ppm FE | 0.7 ppm Po4 | 20ppm NO3 | 20-30 ppm K | (Macro Day)
Saturday -- 4 dGH | 0.3 ppm FE | 0.05-0.1 ppm Po4 (Micro Day)
Sunday -- (Rest Day)

For the 110L is almost the same. GH decreasing very slow (5dGH on Saturday). The phosphates remained at 0.7 ppm on saturday due to daily dosing I would guess, FE levels had increased to 0.4 ppm on Saturday as well.

I played around with the Nutrient Accumulation Calculator v1.2 over at Rotala Butterfly and knowing I add 6.25 ppm No3 from the KNO3 and ending up at 20ppm after a weeks dosing (will be a bit less on sunday ofc) using the calculator there should be a plant uptake around 1.4ppm NO3 per day from the plants. That would result in the plants need a minimum of 10ppm NO3 per week, so a dose of 3.3ish ppm NO3 so a little less then a half normal EI dose. With this the No3 should max out around 3.3ppm and never deplete fully after the WC.
Now the fish waster and feeding has not been taken into consideration so the plant uptake is higher but the feeding and stock is somewhat constant so figured that should not be much of an issue.

As for KH2PO4 I am currently adding 1.08 ppm PO4 per dose and using the calculator this is where it gets kinda interesting. To match the current reading of 0.7ppm Po4 there would have to be a plant uptake of around 0.51 ppm PO4 daily and if that is correct according to this I should be running out of PO4 after every water change and for the first couple of days not until day 3 of the week there would be a surplus of PO4.

Potassium is already reading so high so I won't bother further with that. The GH booster and KNO3 seem to add more then enough (to much really).

So what do you guys think? I was thinking for myself that maybe one should dose 1/2 of the current KNO3 but increase the KH2PO4. The problem is that I cannot measure for P and N so I do not know the status of those elements. Do you think there is a chance that one would run out of N if I reduce the KNO3 mix? Guess I would have to half the dry stuff of KNO3 when mixing since halving the dose would make the potential lack of PO4 even worse. And also add around 40% more of dry KH2PO4 to the wet mix.

I cannot see any real decrease on the Fe during the week but I changed ferts mid week and it got a bit out of the normal order. Will continue to measure that for next week as well to see how the tank uses the iron and if any changes maybe should be made to that dosing as well.
Also took two vials of tank water today that will be sent to a lab next week as I am curious on my tap water contents and how much of the heavy metals are accumulated in the water. But came to think of it maybe would be smarter to take those vials on sunday before the WC instead? Have two more sets that I will take with a one week interval.
I am kinda really excited now to see if an increased PO4 level will help since I have struggled with this issue for a really long time. Never bothered checking the PO4 since I thought it would not run out dosing normal EI levels.

Comments and thoughts are appriciated.


Edit : Also worth of note is that I have had green spot algae since the rescape (and before as well) and that could be related to a Phosphate deficiency right?


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Last edited by Fissure; 11-26-2016 at 05:17 PM. Reason: added
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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No takers? :'(

Anyone a small update from todays readings.
Updated the main thread with the new info.

To sum it up:
500L tank was dosed with micros today. Tomorrow nothing will be added since it's "rest" day.
The GH remains unchanged at 4dGH. The Fe levels have increased to 0.3ppm. This makes me think that the Fe uptake from the plants are quite low.
As for the Phosphates it pretty much confirms my theories I would say. Yesterday I said that I belive my daily plant uptake is around 0.5 ppm PO4. And yesterday it read 0.7ppm and today I got a reading of 0.05->0.1 PPM so. This means the Phosphates probably will be depleted today already and stay depleted until monday and then run out on tuesday again.

For the small tank the GH has went from 6dGH to 5dGH confirming there is a little uptake of those minerals atleast. Fe levels has risen to 0.4ppm and the PO4 levels remain at 0.7ppm.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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So took some measurements today as well on the large tank.
Unfortunately my Fe solution ran out so I could not perform that test. But the GH remains at 4 dGH, added 1dGH from GH booster on Sunday after my WC.
Also took PO4 measurements and it turned up with a 0-0.05 ppm reading. So it is pretty much still non-existing.
How come with a pretty much normal EI dose I am still running out of Phosphates in the large tank?
This should be non-limiting right?


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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So recieved the lab results today. Not sure what to make of it exactly.

Copper - 0.052ppm (High side)
Boron - 0.148 ppm
Manganese - 0 ppm (Not so good?)
Molybdenum - 0 ppm (Not so good)
Zink - 0.052 ppm
Iron - 0.6 ppm

Phosphates - 1.2 ppm
Phosphorous - 0.393 ppm
Potassium - 25 ppm

Calcium - 29 ppm
Magnesium - 16 ppm


If anyone can make any sense of this that would be nice. Looks good to me with exception on the a bit high CU levels (shrimps do not seem to mind though) and the Mn and Mo levels are non exsisting.
Here is a link to the full report if anyone would like to take a look (would appriciate it).

http://www.triton-lab.de/en/aquaria-...73/pdf/online/

Let me know if the link won't work. Ignore the warning levels since they are set for a saltwater tank.


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 09:26 PM
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Surprised none of the fert masters have chimed in yet. I would comment more but give the current condition of my tank I had better not 😒


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah it's awfully quiet in here :P


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 01:40 AM
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So, a few random thoughts:
First and foremost - I'm not sure the specific problem you are solving for. Are your plants growing well?

Does Triton do freshwater analysis? Thought they were only saltwater? The link to the results does not work.

It's really hard to draw conclusions given the changes in your fert regimen, ferts used, etc. If you are interested in tweaking ferts, I'd recommend picking a regimen, sticking with it for a week, then testing just before your weekly WC. Unless you've got high end testing equipment (and even then), daily fluctuations are mostly noise. If you keep your regime up for 2 weeks and if you get the same results before the weekly WC's then you likely know you have a stable routine and test equipment that is at least precise enough to repeat results. From there, you can tweak the routine, measure at the end of the week, repeat.

Assuming the your lab results are accurate, it seems that you, me, and @PortalMasteryRy just can't seem to keep Mn in the water column. What substrate are you using? I followed PMR and @burr740's lead and have been adding MnSO4 to my mix, but so far no improvement on the specific issues I've been having. Seemed to work for PMR. If you're having growth issues, maybe start there? The rest of your parameters look to be in line (though I don't see nitrate listed). If no growth issues, why bother?
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/33...ml#post9725882
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...ml#post9629674
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 02:56 AM
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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My plants are growing but more slowly then expected and with some issues. Will upload pictures on some of the issues I am having. But can list some of them right now.

HC Cuba - Looks healthy but pretty much not growing it all. Some few spots of bba on old leaves.
Dwarf hair grass - Growing but quite a few strands seem to catch bba after a while, looking somewhat pale.
Marsilea crenata - Not growing, old growth looking unhealthy with dark coloration and decaying leaves. Some new growth but really slow.
Several Eriocaulon species - Growing extremely slow and looking pale, old growth decay and melt.
Cryptocoryne albida 'Brown' - Growing slowly, old leaves start forming pot holes and then start melting and catching BBA
Several Java fern species - Growing good, but looking a bit pale. Old leaves start to turn transparent from the tips and inwards. New growth also affected.
Eleocharis species - Almost no new growth, the little growth there is start to decay and catch BBA
Pogostemon helferi - Almost all of it stopped growing pretty early on and has since then pretty much died out from the tank. Some pale new growth but then melts.
Hygrophila pinnatifida - Growed really well initially, big and healthy with loads of runners. Has since then came to a halt with small leaves and older leaves started to get lots of GSA followed by pinholes and then BBA at decaying edges.
Mayaca fluviatilis - Using this as a temporary indicator plant. Started out with thick healthy and fast growth, has slowed down and looking pale green with new leaves being really small and spindly. Has improved the last week as I has increased the dosing somewhat.

There is also a bunch of anubias and loads of mosses they look healthy for the most part, some of the more rare mosses are slowly decaying or not growing.

So there is deffo something going on, CO2 levels are on check and there is loads of pearling from the plants through the light cycle. So I am guessing that CO2 and Light levels are not an issue. Added a lot of floating plants to give some shade to slow down the growth a bit. Flow is good through the entire tank so that should not be an issue either. Especially good in the front and lower parts of the tank.

Triton are catered towards the Saltwater community guess that's where the money is But I do not think the IPC equipment care if its salt or freshwater it atomizes. Could send them an email to verify. But the results look like they could be in the ballpark.
I have actually done some pretty frequent testing the last two weeks, especially when it comes to Iron levels and Phosphate. And yes I know that the test are not very accurate, or people claim so atleast. But my results at home and the lab results seem to be pretty much identical from the day the lab sample was taken.

I have not taken nitrate levels as frequently as both potassium and nitrate levels never been an issue. But I have done them a few times, as you can see in my first post I took those at the friday. Day after the Lab results were taken from the tank. Also took a No3 test yesterday and the levels are in the 20-30ppm range always. Though I did skip the WC this weekend due to the low PO4 levels. I also took another lab sample this sunday on WC day that are on it's way to the lab. I will do a 50% wc next sunday and take a last lab sample after that. Results will be posted here.

So questions for me, is my issues related to nutrients, and why is phosphates quickly running out after dosing day in a claimed non limiting dosing scheme. Is the problems only related to missing PO4 or is there also some traces missing. Iron levels now look to be within a reasonable level. But the earlier mentioned levels of Mb and Mo are non existing if the lab results are accurate.
My GH is up to 7dgh now using T.Barrs GH booster so Ca,Mg and K should not be an issue currently so the potholes should not be from lack of K.

Will attach the results as a pdf here instead.

Edit : Forgot about the Substrate. Its the new Ada Amazonia version.

Attaching some pics I took with my phone earlier in a hurry. Hopefully the quality will suffice.

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/1.jpg

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/2.jpg

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/3.jpg

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/4.jpg

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/5.jpg


EDIT
Forgot to mention:
Yesterday i decided to try confirming the accuracy of my JBL PO4 test kit I am frequently using. After I came home from work in the middle of the night well after the days light cycle was over I decided to make a reference solution so made a 100ml solution using distilled water and only KH2PO4. Made it so that adding 10 ml of this solution would add a normal EI dose (1.2ppm PO4). Took a measurement from the tank before and then one hour after adding the solution to the tank. Then this night 24 hours after I took another measurement to see the uptake after one day cycle again, turned of the auto dosers during this period so nothing else was added.

First PO4 reading - 0.6 ppm
Second PO4 reading (after adding 1.2ppm) - 1.8 ppm
Third reading (1 light cycle after, 24 hours) - 0.4 ppm

So what I can make of this is that the test system seems to be accurate enough for this and that my plants seem to like Phosphates very much, were the hell does it all go?! That would give me a daily uptake of 1.2 ppm PO4, that can't be right ? If this is correct I would have to double the normal KH2PO4 amount for my batches. Is it my floating plants that are absorbing so much PO4? Sure there is a more than normal plant load considering the bottom is planted and the back wall and also the surface.

http://www.mrfisse.com/akvarium/def/6.jpg
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Labresults-16-11-26.pdf (118.9 KB, 18 views)


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Last edited by Darkblade48; 12-07-2016 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 05:48 AM
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Test kit's cause more issues than they are worth.IMHO
Plant's offer the best measureable result's with respect to their nutrient/CO2 availability as judged by their growth or lack thereof.
EI method is no longer EI method once one begins to tweak to suit their perceived need.
Plants for a lot of folks will always grow slower than expected it seems.
Test result's are often confusing given accuracy that is sketchy due to too many other contributing variables for my taste.
Also toxicity and or deficiencies often share similar symptom's it seems so a method that nearly assures that it won't be deficiency such as EI is a good base for those who maybe cannot see what plant's may be saying.
Have put away my own test kit's some year's ago .
Just sayin.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Well, going back to normal EI dosing won't work since this is what caused my current situation. Also the EI method is not EI method if some of the nutrients are running out the second day or even the same day as dosing, it is based on a non limiting nutrient supply? Phosphates in my case is clearly running out.
We can argue for and against test kits all day and I already know their backsides, this is why I have taken precautions to verify the ones I am using best I can, lab grade tests included. I do not buy the toxicity nonsense since these issues started when there was no trace dosing and afterwards a really lean dosing regime. I tried the "sol" way and it made it either not better or even worse. Even changed all the substrate due to his the toxicity is in the soil claims. Total BS
Increased traces has mad the indicator plants respond better but there is still several other issues. And seeing that PO4 consumption is really high deficiencies is not totally out of the question.
The other Macros are in good supply so the only one that is on the low side is the PO4, either PO4 is not that important for growth and the low to non existent levels on after day dosing is not an issue or my tank is unique in some way regarding the PO4 uptake.
Maybe lower the light intensity further but then the par will start go below 100 at substrate level and not sure if that's what I want for my carpeting plants. Adding more Co2 would like start causing issues with my tank inhabitants, drop checker is already on the yellowish side and a 1.2ph drop.
More flow would start uprooting the plants in the front. You are saying I should stick with the base EI dosing and just ignore the issues or what and I do want to mention that I am currently dosing normal EI amounts just on a daily basis instead, each dose cut in half and separated by 12 hours.

Got the following answer from triton lab

Hi John

Yes we can test freshwater, however at the moment at least all analysis is set against sea water set points so of course there would be many red flags and warnings, but the data itself is still relevant. You just have to ignore the flags and just look at the numbers.

We are working on for the future a fresh water testing service specifically with it's own set of set points.

Best Regards
Tim Caldwell
Support Team


So the ICP-OES testing should be valid


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Last edited by Darkblade48; 12-08-2016 at 05:31 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 02:50 AM
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Good to known Triton does freshwater. Thank you.

There's a lot of BBA in those pics. In my personal experience I see BBA when CO2 level is not sufficient for the light levels.

For the Phosphate thing. The possible contributing factors are:
You're not putting in as much PO4 as you think
You have more PO4 in there than your test kits are telling you
Plant uptake
Substrate binding
Precipitation

Could be a reasonable combination of everything: your doser is putting out 5% less than you think and your fert batch is 5% less concentrated, your read your kit 10% low, you have a species or two that are PO4 hogs, Amazonia binds PO4 (https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...ml#post4831657), and some PO4 is precipitating out with the Iron. All of those together lead to apparent low PO4 levels. Maybe just up your dose/track the level with a weekly test right before your WCs until you get a reasonable amount at the end of the week.

In my own experience, you can hit 0/low ppm PO4 for short periods without horrible and immediate plant impacts. Those pics make me think more Nitrate or CO2 deficiency. I mention Nitrate because of the BGA which I've experienced in low flow/low Nitrate scenarios.

I know you said you think your Nitrate levels are OK, but I see they're not in the Triton results and certain Nitrate test kits in particular can have interferences from a lot of common elements, particularly copper which you note is relatively high in your tank. Just a thought.

I still do find the 0 Mn thing interesting given my own experience, portalmasteryrys thread, and your .6 Fe and .15 B levels, but my guess is that's not the primary issue.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMtankd View Post
Good to known Triton does freshwater. Thank you.

There's a lot of BBA in those pics. In my personal experience I see BBA when CO2 level is not sufficient for the light levels.

For the Phosphate thing. The possible contributing factors are:
You're not putting in as much PO4 as you think
You have more PO4 in there than your test kits are telling you
Plant uptake
Substrate binding
Precipitation

Could be a reasonable combination of everything: your doser is putting out 5% less than you think and your fert batch is 5% less concentrated, your read your kit 10% low, you have a species or two that are PO4 hogs, Amazonia binds PO4 (https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...ml#post4831657), and some PO4 is precipitating out with the Iron. All of those together lead to apparent low PO4 levels. Maybe just up your dose/track the level with a weekly test right before your WCs until you get a reasonable amount at the end of the week.

In my own experience, you can hit 0/low ppm PO4 for short periods without horrible and immediate plant impacts. Those pics make me think more Nitrate or CO2 deficiency. I mention Nitrate because of the BGA which I've experienced in low flow/low Nitrate scenarios.

I know you said you think your Nitrate levels are OK, but I see they're not in the Triton results and certain Nitrate test kits in particular can have interferences from a lot of common elements, particularly copper which you note is relatively high in your tank. Just a thought.

I still do find the 0 Mn thing interesting given my own experience, portalmasteryrys thread, and your .6 Fe and .15 B levels, but my guess is that's not the primary issue.
Yeah, valid thoughts. The NO3 test kits are rather hard to read out as well I would think. I just know what I put in from the KNO3 and there is a decent livestock load, 40 tetras a bunch of corrys, some chichlids and 100 or so shrimp, se never thought No3 might become an issue. I have tested my tap with the NO3 test kit and it reads out as my cities water report so I do think it works. But like you said something in the tank might mess all that up, not sure.
I actually always had issues with BBA in one form or another, though I never had any big issues with it on plants before. Almost all of the BBA in the large tank is attached to either the drift wood, can't see any on my rocks. Or on damaged plant parts. You can see small tufts attached to damaged areas of leaves or like a melting straw on the hairgrass lawn. I really do not think flow is an issue in the large tank, I made everything I could when I built the moss wall and did the rescape to assure the flow would be as good as possible and I have a good sway on all plants. The only plants receiving less turbulence is the ones attached on the moss wall and there is no issues with BBA back there. Co2 is another possibility I guess. I do the usuall one PH drop (running a controller). The regulator is dialed in to that so the controller does not go on or off, I more just use it as a safety feature. Though I do have a really low KH like 0-1 making in harder to find the sweet spot for CO2. The drop checker is light green during the night when the CO2 is off and goes almost to a yellow during the day. I really do not want to push it any further.

Gonna do a par measure tomorrow again and maybe have to consider lowering the light again.
As a final note I do see some improved growth now in the dwarf hair grass. Lots of new healthy straws has popped up.

EDIT: Just took another couple of tests and Fe is up at 0.8ppm so I am going to perform the normal WC this Sunday. Po4 is around 0.2 ppm currently, maybe not a real issue anymore since I am adding daily instead now so another 0.6 ppm will be added during the night and should be available to the plants tomorrow when the light goes on. But it is a fair deal lower then the "recommended EI target. Might be interesting to test it just before lights on, then one could see if the substrate is absorbing any larger amounts, the plants should not consume any nutrients during lights off I suspect?


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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 11:37 PM
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I've heard lots of different opinions about when various plants uptake various nutrients. I can say with certainty that plants don't photosynthesize when it's dark, but there is nothing that says they can't consume nutrients. From an evolutionary standpoint, it seems likely that they would consume them whenever they're in they're in the water.

If you're just looking for an excuse to play with test kits an interesting experiment might be to put some of that substrate in a a separate container - nothing but soil and water - dose a known amount of PO4, test. Wait a day or four and then test again. See how much your substrate pulls out. You'd need to use a reasonable amount of soil and water, in a ratio similar to whats in your tank. Won't be precise, but will let you know directionally if your soil is sucking it up. You could also set up a separate control (container with no soil, dosed with the same amount of PO4).

A lot of people say you can have a great tank and never own a test kit. I agree that's true for 90+% of folks. For the oddball scenarios - or for those who just get enjoyment out of the analytical aspect of the hobby - I highly recommend 1) investing in something beyond the cheap drop kits and 2) researching the things that cause interference to your kit and knowing the stated error level of your kit. 2) applies even for the highest end equipment available. The Hanna Checkers for Iron and Phosphate take the guess work out of interpreting results and have been both accurate and precise for me when compared against lab grade analysis.

And yes - take your foot off the gas until you get out of the skid. Lower your par until you can reliably keep a desirable level of ferts in the column. Know though that lowering your light in itself is a change to the tank and you may see things get worse before they get better (plants will be adjusting to the lower par and may shed leaves, etc).

All this said, you are using a nutrient-rich substrate so I'd think anything that's stuck in the dirt should be able to get at least some nutrients...the only thing they can't get from the dirt? CO2.

Edit: one more thought on the BGA - in addition to low nitrates, my experience says that it likes low oxygen environments. Low O2 means more stress on your livestock as you increase CO2 as well as less fuel for the good bacteria that help your plants pull in nutrients. Do you have a lot of surface ripple? Any surface scum? Have you been good about removing detritus when you do your WC (blow it out of crevices with a turkey baster and suck it up)? Clean your filter and your tubing often? I'd suggest: get your fert regime in order (really, just up your PO4, mayb nitrate), lower the par, increase O2, clean EVERYTHING, do as an aggressive treatment of the excel/H2O2 One-Two punch as your ethics and affinity for your livestock allows (maybe two treatments), wait for the fallout to end for a week or two (clean up the dying and decaying plant matter every day/twice a day). Once you get back to to good growth with little algae you can increase the par until you see BBA - then your decision is whether you're comfortable upping your CO2 or if you bump the par back down.

Last edited by DMtankd; 12-09-2016 at 01:39 AM. Reason: edit
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DMtankd View Post
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Thanks for your input. To be honest I hate the test kits, it would be nice if I could skip them. But I just hate not knowing and I guess that is part of my personality, some light OCD stuff going on here perhaps
And I also find it quite interesting to know what is going on in the tank to be totally honest. Like the plant uptake of nutrients is pretty interesting to follow. I am starting to see improvements now in the stem plant group and also in a few other species. The GSA is GONE and that went faster then I expected, BBA still there though.

Not sure what has helped, the changes I made are the following.
-Switched to daily EI dosing
-Increased the GH from 0-1 to 7

Have not lowered the light intensity yet.
As for surface movement there is a good amount of it, the spray bars are set 15cm below the surface in the back and aimed at an angle against the bow front upwards just to hit the bow upper water line to create surface movement and push the flow downwards. There is a lot of floating plants as well circling around, water temp set at 24 degrees celcius. There is also a surface skimmer working 24/7 so there is no film on the surface, if there is one thing I hate it is that awful oily crap. Always makes sure that gets taken cared of in my tank

Also received the lab results from the tests taken on 2016-12-05.
Attaching them here.
Noteworthy is that the PO4 test kit seem to be spot on, Mn is still totally absent. Sc is rising (whatever that is). Copper is also rising, most likely due to me skipping the WC. Boron levels are keeping steady so there is at least some usage of that. Mo levels are detected now at 0.8ppm, not sure if that is to much or whatnot. Phosphorus was lower this time at 0.14 ppm and PO4 also lower at 0.4ppm.

Now I got one more lab set here, just have to decide when to take it to make it the most interesting. Will probably get another 3 set kit in the near future, found it pretty fun to get some lab results and not that expensive either. Any tips on when to take it?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 500L-16-12-05.pdf (118.9 KB, 18 views)


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