Water parameters and algae and change... - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Water parameters and algae and change...

My tank is well cycled but hairy algae thrive, i have tried a blackout during 2 whole days (48h) and added liquid carbon (locally made product, not name brand) daily during 8 days but got no result.


Nitrite rate measured with API colour test: 0
NO3 rate measured with the Sera colour test: close to 0.
PO4 rate measured with Sera colour test: close to 0.
The above measures are obtained consistently over time for the 3 last weeks.
No Trace elements added since long.

I don't measure the other parameters because I really don't want to fill my undertank cabinet with chemicals... But the pH is likely acidic and the water is fairly soft give the analysis of the residence's swimming pool water supplied by the same water company.

dimensions of the tank are : 120 x 40 x 40 in cm.
Population: 3 mature trigogaster lalius, 15 cardinal neons, 9 espei rasboras, rougly 50 boraras urophtalmoides, 2 empire gudgeons, 1 red whiptail pleco. They are fed 2 daily, they are fairly well fed but not overfed.

the soil is mostly made of artificial made black granulates "Contro soil" from Marfied (little known outside Asia) and some grey_green clay at the bottom.

i have never added any N-P fertiliser into the water. Potassium is added frequently to combat the holes on the leaves disease. I stopped adding the fertiliser assumed to contain only Trace elements 3 weeks ago.

the tank is lit with a 2000 lm led fixture 8h a day.

What is wrong with it ?
Besides, with this water, do I still need to change water ?

Last edited by Tran; 10-12-2016 at 02:50 AM. Reason: light and fertilisers
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:02 PM
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Can you show a pic of the tank and condition of the plants?

If the plants are starved of certain nutrients, they stop growing which allows certain other nutrients to accumulate. The algae is there to use the excess nutrients. It's there to balance the system.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tran View Post
My tank is well cycled but hairy algae thrive, i have tried a blackout during 2 whole days (48h) and added liquid carbon (locally made product, not name brand) daily during 8 days but got no result.


Nitrite rate measured with API colour test: 0
NO3 rate measured with the Sera colour test: close to 0.
PO4 rate measured with Sera colour test: close to 0.
The above measures are obtained consistently over time for the 3 last weeks.
No Trace elements added since long.

I don't measure the other parameters because I really don't want to fill my undertank cabinet with chemicals... But the pH is likely acidic and the water is fairly soft give the analysis of the residence's swimming pool water supplied by the same water company.

dimensions of the tank are : 120 x 40 x 40 in cm.
Population: 3 mature trigogaster lalius, 15 cardinal neons, 9 espei rasboras, rougly 50 boraras urophtalmoides, 2 empire gudgeons, 1 red whiptail pleco. They are fed 2 daily, they are fairly well fed but not overfed.

the soil is mostly made of artificial made black granulates "Contro soil" from Marfied (little known outside Asia) and some grey_green clay at the bottom.

i have never added any N-P fertiliser into the water. Potassium is added frequently to combat the holes on the leaves disease. I stopped adding the fertiliser assumed to contain only Trace elements 3 weeks ago.

the tank is lit with a 2000 lm led fixture 8h a day.

What is wrong with it ?
Besides, with this water, do I still need to change water ?
lights: keep it low. maybe like 4hrs
co2: keep it strong
fertz: keep it strong
water change: once every 2 weeks

then see if it is helping


if you want to nuke the algae!!!
1. take out your bacteria media in your filter (keeping those little guys alive)
2. pour some hydrogen peroxide into the water. tablespoon or two?
3. let it cycle around the tank for 15-30 minutes. use your filter to blow it around.
4. do a water change
5. put filter bacteria media back in
6. run tank as normal

the algae gets nuked.

if you want to drop a hydrogen bomb on it, do it with couple drops of bleach.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:37 PM
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if you want to drop a hydrogen bomb on it, do it with couple drops of bleach.
Also a great way to kill all the fish in the tank...
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 10:00 PM
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Also a great way to kill all the fish in the tank...
take out the fish before dropping the hydrogen bomb. put it back after the radiation is gone.

my parents cycled 10 drops of bleach for 3 days in a 10 gal tank. it did sure look like a nuke was dropped, but fishes and plants are alive.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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...

Quote:
Originally Posted by IntotheWRX View Post
lights: keep it low. maybe like 4hrs
co2: keep it strong
fertz: keep it strong
water change: once every 2 weeks

then see if it is helping


if you want to nuke the algae!!!
1. take out your bacteria media in your filter (keeping those little guys alive)
2. pour some hydrogen peroxide into the water. tablespoon or two?
3. let it cycle around the tank for 15-30 minutes. use your filter to blow it around.
4. do a water change
5. put filter bacteria media back in
6. run tank as normal

the algae gets nuked.

if you want to drop a hydrogen bomb on it, do it with couple drops of bleach.
OK, the phases of the "Tempest in the Tank" Operation:
1)Duration: 5 days (suggestion welcomed)
- reducing lighting time to 6h/day: checked
- adding back fertilisers: checked
- CoČ increase: checked

2) if the previous fails:
- surgical hit with peroxyde, syringe and needle in situ.
Question: How is the the risk of collateral casualties when engaging target algae growing on java moss, aren't they close genetically ?

3) if the previous fails:
Nuke attack after evacuating the fish population. It is going to be messy.

4)...I don't dare the thermonuclear bomb. cannot envisage a scorched earth left after this last resort attack.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
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OK, the phases of the "Tempest in the Tank" Operation:

2) if the previous fails:
- surgical hit with peroxyde, syringe and needle in situ.
Question: How is the the risk of collateral casualties when engaging target algae growing on java moss, aren't they close genetically ?
the hydrogen peroxy will know who the enemy is and attack the algae but the java moss will be fine. they are big and tough. they will only feel a tingle from the hydroproxy. the algae spores and big black brush algae will lose it's life and turn pink.

good luck soildier if you decide to give it a 30 min nuke. you shall see results of cleaner tank 2-3 days after the nuke.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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aye aye my captain.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Disappointment: after 2 weeks: shortening the lighting duration has little effect on the beard algae. The localised "spraying" of peroxyde kills the algae...and the underlying plant. I don't dare to trigger a generalised a war using a strong dose of peroxyde, I cannot catch every fish to transfer to a shelter tank.

Could someone advise a proved commercial or homemade algae killer solution (other than the above) ?
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 12:20 PM
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Dosing Excel or Metricide works fairly well. But then again i quit using chemicals and just fertilize properly with weekly water changes of >50%. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you would want that metricide because its cheaper than Seachem's Excell. Also it comes with a smaller bottle. DO not use that bottle, just use the chemicals in the gallon jug. A quick search around the forums for dosing instructions.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016, 02:12 PM
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API AlgaeFix works well on hair types. Follow the directions, and err on the side of less because too much can be hard on fish and certain plants. By too much I mean 1.5x or 2x the recommended dosage amounts. Also it is not safe for shrimps, period.

And of course you'll need to figure out the root cause so it doesnt return.


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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I have used a locally made version of Excel, it had no effect. Maybe that was not a proper glutaraldehyde compound => Must try Excel which is not a bargain over here. Metricide ? ..must have a look at medical chemicals shop. But it looks like the active compounds decays in short time, the Amazon sale offer displays a warning that it is a 14 days dose.

It is funny that a chemical sold as a steriliser is bought mostly by aquarists who left most of the recorded feedbacks. And Amazon itself links it to plant fertiliser.

As for API algae fix... I am going to try it first.

I cannot root out the cause of the algae bloom: the nitrate and phosphate rates are nil. I don't think that I am short of trace elements since I daily add them. My COČ reactor is at its max level, beyond which a big COČ bubble would appear on top of the cylinder. My illumination is not that powerful: nominally 2,000 lm for a 120x40x40 cm tank.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tran View Post
Thanks guys, I have used a locally made version of Excel, it had no effect. Maybe that was not a proper glutaraldehyde compound => Must try Excel which is not a bargain over here. Metricide ? ..must have a look at medical chemicals shop. But it looks like the active compounds decays in short time, the Amazon sale offer displays a warning that it is a 14 days dose.

It is funny that a chemical sold as a steriliser is bought mostly by aquarists who left most of the recorded feedbacks. And Amazon itself links it to plant fertiliser.

As for API algae fix... I am going to try it first.

I cannot root out the cause of the algae bloom: the nitrate and phosphate rates are nil. I don't think that I am short of trace elements since I daily add them. My COČ reactor is at its max level, beyond which a big COČ bubble would appear on top of the cylinder. My illumination is not that powerful: nominally 2,000 lm for a 120x40x40 cm tank.
Don't worry about the 14 day part, it works and is a hell of a lot cheaper than excel.

Just a noob


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Last edited by Nlewis; 11-03-2016 at 01:46 AM. Reason: Edit
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 04:30 AM
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@Tran The 14 day thing with Metricide is how long it lasts as a sterilizing agent if you mix the activator with it, eg hospitals, surgical units, etc.

We are not using it that way. The little activator packet should be discarded, and dose the liquid by itself just the way it comes.

It will last a very long time as long as it's not exposed to light. Not sure how long exactly, but a year or two at least, probably a lot longer.


But yeah try the Algaefix, it's great for hair types, just read the directions and dont overdo it.


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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 05:57 AM
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For the long term solution, you may try to reduce the no. of fishes, reduce feeding to once a day, put more floating plants, 50% water change a week and regular cleaning of filters. For sure your algae problems will be gone.
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