dosing help - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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dosing help

hi all, Im new to keeping plants and need some help on dosing.

I have a 230 litre tank (lets say 200 when you subtract substrate and driftwood). I currently have a set of Aquatlantis lights which are rated at 52w (after looking online i found they give 4500K light but im not sure about it) theres nothing written on the label about luminosity. I have fertilizer by sera in the substrate and also have a co2 injection system. The drop checker is a perfect green so there should be enough CO2 in the system.

its stocked with fish and I have some anubias nana, a large anubia, some vallisneria gigantea, cryptocoryne, hemipgraphis colorat, elodea densa, bacopa amplexicaulis and pogestemon helferi.

my friend who is quite well versed gave me the following routine to follow. he said I should dose:

Saturday - 1.2grams trace elements
Sunday - Rest
Monday - 1.2grams trace elements
Tuesday - Rest
Wednesday - 1.2 grams trace
Thursday - 1.2 grams trace
Friday- 30% waterchange followed by a 7gram potassium sulphate and 1 gram potassium phosphate dose.

however this regime entails me to do a weekly waterchange something im not to keen on doing. I usually do it once ever 2 weeks. Is there anyway it can be altered so that I get to do a waterchange once every 2 weeks?


thanks for your help
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 03:49 PM
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https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...-regimes_.html is a good way to dose fertilizers. There are other dosing schemes, but this is a simple, easy to follow one.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply. But is there a regime where I don't have to do weekly waterchanges? Or maybe can I keep this regime and waterchange every two weeks? Thanks
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 09:17 PM
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Check this out for dosing.
https://sites.google.com/site/aquati...r/home/pps-pro


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Growing is not that difficult.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 10:15 PM
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You could change your water every two weeks if you're willing to do some testing and do a bigger 50% water change. I dose EI and have found testing to be necessary. Otherwise, I might overdose Nitrate or Phosphate. It's not like you have to test before every dosing decision but the testing does get old after a while. The Nitrate test takes 15 minutes or at least mine does. I did one this morning at 4:30 before going to work. It's not very fun but it kept me from putting in too much Nitrate today because it was already at 30 mg/l. I also tested the Phosphate and put in a little more of that. Could you go two weeks like this? Interesting question. I suppose it could work but algae and the interminable testing might become an issue.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 12:14 AM
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I'm not really familiar with the dosing regime your friend recommended. I use a modified EI dosing where M-W-F=macros T-TH-SAT=trace Sun=50%water change. Keep in mind when you're looking at dosing amounts it's typically for a fairly densely planted tank. My tank is a total jungle but a lot of it is Anubias and Java Fern which don't require much in the way of nutrients. I dose a little less than what's called for and stretch out or skip my water changes occasionally.
You may be better off with the PPS method. Basically with EI your dosing more than the plants will use and then resetting once a week and purging ferts out of the system with water changes. With PPS your dosing closer to what the plants will actually use. Water changes become less important for fert removal, but you might have to do some extra testing. There's loads of info on here about both methods.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savetheplants View Post
You could change your water every two weeks if you're willing to do some testing and do a bigger 50% water change. I dose EI and have found testing to be necessary. Otherwise, I might overdose Nitrate or Phosphate. It's not like you have to test before every dosing decision but the testing does get old after a while. The Nitrate test takes 15 minutes or at least mine does. I did one this morning at 4:30 before going to work. It's not very fun but it kept me from putting in too much Nitrate today because it was already at 30 mg/l. I also tested the Phosphate and put in a little more of that. Could you go two weeks like this? Interesting question. I suppose it could work but algae and the interminable testing might become an issue.

I don't get why you put yourself through the hassle of the ongoing testing. If you follow a schedule for 3 weeks or so and you're doing regular dosage and weekly water changing your levels should be about the same on any given day unless your supply water changes or you make some other kind of drastic change in your tank.

30ppm of nitrate shouldn't be a problem. If you dosed had dosed that morning what would it raise to? Why do you think that would be a problem? I don't know what your tank size or your dosing routine is but I can't imagine that you would raise it enough to be a issue. Then it will be going down as its used up for the next 2 days and then a water change. If you don't want it as high as 30ppm, back off on your regular daily nitrate dosing a little. After a couple of weeks you should be stabilized, know about where you're at, and not have to test.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 01:16 AM
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I first started EI three months ago and want to get a better feel for it by testing after having some problems. The OP wants to change his water every two weeks, so I suggested testing. I did not test Nitrate the last time I dosed and it was a bigger than normal dose so I tested for it this morning. My Phosphate went up to 6 ppm (too high) with 50% ongoing water changes a couple of weeks ago because I was not testing. I understand what you're saying. My tank survived the elevated Phosphate and another 6 ppm of Nitrate wouldn't ruin it either. But water change was on Monday and it's only Wednesday and I think, rather I know, there's enough Nitrate in the tank. Friday I'll dose 6 ppm Nitrate without testing. I just need to get the dosing calibrated. The tests are sort of my training wheels for EI.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savetheplants View Post
I first started EI three months ago and want to get a better feel for it by testing after having some problems. The OP wants to change his water every two weeks, so I suggested testing. I did not test Nitrate the last time I dosed and it was a bigger than normal dose so I tested for it this morning. My Phosphate went up to 6 ppm (too high) with 50% ongoing water changes a couple of weeks ago because I was not testing. I understand what you're saying. My tank survived the elevated Phosphate and another 6 ppm of Nitrate wouldn't ruin it either. But water change was on Monday and it's only Wednesday and I think, rather I know, there's enough Nitrate in the tank. Friday I'll dose 6 ppm Nitrate without testing. I just need to get the dosing calibrated. The tests are sort of my training wheels for EI.
There is nothing wrong with testing and knowing for fact what your tank can handle vs the fictional what other people think your tank can handle. If nothing else, you'll be ahead of the game when you're ready to get into the fine tuning phase.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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What exactly would you test for? Nitrate should be kept at 30 ppm and phosphate at 0.2 if I'm not mistaken right?
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2016, 03:18 AM
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What exactly would you test for? Nitrate should be kept at 30 ppm and phosphate at 0.2 if I'm not mistaken right?
Well, in my case, my alkalinity or KH went down to 4 dKH last week. I wouldn't want that at 3 dKH ever because of the CO2 injection. So I put in a quarter teaspoon of Potassium Bicarbonate to boost my buffering capacity. When I first started recovering my tank a few months ago my GH was at 270 ppm which was too high. Not really a problem though because regular 50% water changes iron out anything. Let's see, your filter could crash. It does happen. Testing for Ammonia would let you know. I test my tap water for Chlorine because I've had my fish eight years and don't want to lose them because some errant city water utility dosing pump overdoses the water supply. It's not like the city is going to call me to let me know they overdosed the water with Chlorine. I used to constantly test the pH before I got my drop checker and bubble counter to make sure the CO2 level was safe for the fish.

Phosphate is easy to overdose. It should be 10% of what your Nitrate is. It's impossible to know for sure without a colorimeter though. I just make sure mine doesn't get back up to 6 ppm. I try to keep it between 2 and 3 ppm as best as I can estimate it. It is just an estimate. Every test operator will get a different result depending on his color vision and tank conditions change by the hour. That's why I like titration.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savetheplants View Post
I first started EI three months ago and want to get a better feel for it by testing after having some problems. The OP wants to change his water every two weeks, so I suggested testing. I did not test Nitrate the last time I dosed and it was a bigger than normal dose so I tested for it this morning. My Phosphate went up to 6 ppm (too high) with 50% ongoing water changes a couple of weeks ago because I was not testing. I understand what you're saying. My tank survived the elevated Phosphate and another 6 ppm of Nitrate wouldn't ruin it either. But water change was on Monday and it's only Wednesday and I think, rather I know, there's enough Nitrate in the tank. Friday I'll dose 6 ppm Nitrate without testing. I just need to get the dosing calibrated. The tests are sort of my training wheels for EI.
Well that totally makes sense. When I read your initial post I mistakenly assumed that you had been using EI for quite a while. Testing at the beginning and occasionally down the line totally makes sense.
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