Thanks. I just did a water change a week ago so it's about due now... I usually do them weekly. I just reset the tank up. Did a 5 week no lights, but left my fish in. Cleaned all the rocks of algae and left them out for the full five weeks and left my fish with PVC pipe only. So I did a water change last weekend before adding rocks & wood back in with new plants and a bottle of Turbo start. So I'm just monitoring everything very, very closely to avoid that bad algae issue I had. I guess one or two more days of the Phosguard should bring it down to where it should be.
Thanks... but I'm running low tech so no CO2, low light and low light plants. I'm also holding off on dosing any ferts. Substrate is Eco complete. There's lots of new growth on the plants I put in last week... and the bit of algae that still remains is still dissipating. No algae on glass after a week. But with 5 Amano shrimp, 1 SAE and 2 ottos, I'm adding extra algae tablets so might be where the phosphates are coming from.
Then it still does not matter, it can be anywhere from 0.1ppm to 10ppm.
With higher growth rates, you'll need more nutrients.
With less, you have more wiggle room.
The sediment provides nothing that you have, consider a soil based sediment or go non CO2 method detailed on my web site for a water column approach to it.
"Low tech" could be many things, it's very general and means quite a few things to as many people.
I'd simply do a water change before adding any stuff to remove anything.
Still, it's(10ppm) non harmful in a non CO2 lower light tanks with good plant density. This assumes that the test kit, which.........you are basing everything here upon, is actually..........correct.
See how to calibrate a test kit using as standard solution reference.
If you do not want to do that, best not to bother testing at all.