Dosing dry ferts still can't get the colors to come out of plants - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Dosing dry ferts still can't get the colors to come out of plants

I am still having the problem getting the colors to come out of my plants. My lights are 216w t5ho but now I am trying only 108w for 7 hours then 216w for 1 hours, I am dosing 4g kn03, 3.5g k2s04, and .6g kh2p04 also dosing 5ml of iron ever other day and also trace 15ml. I have a lot of co2 30+ everything pearls everything is growing but not showing its Reds and Pinks. The plants are Cabomba furcata, Rotala sp Colorata , Ludwigia sp Guinea, Ludwigia Glandulosa. I was thinking could it be that I need CSM+B Plantex not sure what it is but could this be the problem?
ph 6.7
Kh 6
co2 30+
temp 78-80

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 02:32 AM
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I use Plantex, and my wife says "look at those pinks, and wow those are red." I can tell the colors of my plants are good, if not brighter and more vivid. Couldnt hurt to try switching traces. Use Plantex for a month and see what happens.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:50 AM
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More iron! What's your ppm of it?

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:54 AM
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I add no extra fe.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 04:11 AM
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More Iron, more light. Don't bother with iron test kits, they are useless.

If you can, slowly bump your co2 up slightly. Some plants depend on lower levels of nitrates too, but I am not sure if these fall into that.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 04:11 AM
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Usually higher iron and lower nitrates do it for me and a lot of others. I have some of the pinkest sunset hygro i've grown yet right now. I dose nitrates in my 75 enough to keep it at 10ppm. My hygrophila's new growth is SOLID pink, its amazing. It is a low tech low light tank. I have only 64 watts t8 over it right now with amazing growth. One of my favorite tanks yet. Rotala rotundifolia is starting to go pink near the surface now and my red ludwigia constantly grows in a nice sunburst color on the top of the leaves and a pinkish purple underneath. I only dose traces once every two weeks if that. When I do I use mostly equilibrium thanks to some of Tom Barr's helpful articles on low tech or I use some plantex that I have. But it seems like I actually have better results in my low tech from fish food and fish waste along with seachem equilibrium. Like I said I believe low nitrates are the key to those reds and pinks just bursting out. That has been the definite factor in all my tanks and I know it has been it others too. Also don't forget the iron as well, that usually helps a ton. Take a reading of your nitrates and see where its at. It is something I feel should definitely be considered IMO. I am just going on past experience in the hobby and other articles and experiences from other fellow hobbyists. Good luck with this and you will figure it out. Patience is key with certain things in planted tanks.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 02:29 PM
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I think I get some good reds out of my P stellatus and sunset hygro but I do nothing in particular to get it. I dose standard EI on a 75 with 108w of T5HO. I notice that as the stellatus grows it gets redder and usually my bigger stems have more color. The hygro is usually very pink no matter how low it has been trimmed or if it has been allowed to grow relatively tall. Maybe it's just the particular lighting that highlights the plant color while other lights wash them out. My own theory is that plants that are usually red will display their best color when healthy and supplied with the necessary nutrients to grow unimpeded by things such as insufficient CO2, PO4, etc. and that plants that are forced to grow too rapidly by too much light and barely have enough, if that, CO2, etc. aren't as healthy and don't display colors as well as they could. But that's just my own totally unsubstantiated idea.


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:20 PM
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Another tank with less than 1/2 the light used in the above problem tank:



Plenty red there, 1.8w/gal, 9 hour photoperiod.
Focus more on good general growth, reduced light intensity etc.


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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I really want my tanks to look like yours colors are so amazing . Guess Ill dose half the No3 and see whats happens I stick with the other dosing but Ill boost the iron say 10ml? I think my co2 is at a good ppm drop checkers are yellow I have one on each side of tank one on top and one on bottom. As for more light 216w of t5ho is a lot to begin with don't think more would be better thing

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 03:28 PM
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I wouldn't add anymore light. That is just going to make the nutrient and co2 demand higher which isn't going to help with colors IMO. Focus more on finding a nutrient balance that gets the results and colors you want. If anything I would reduce lighting to reduce the co2 and fert demand to make it easier on you unless you are happy with your tank now. Just find and do what works for you. I am just a low tech tank nut so I am always for reducing things, lol.


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 09:42 AM
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216w t5ho on a 55, plants are probably compensating by producing less chlorophyll. "bleaching"

"At constant temperature, the rate of carbon assimilation varies with irradiance, initially increasing as the irradiance increases. However at higher irradiance this relationship no longer holds and the rate of carbon assimilation reaches a plateau."

108w is already high light.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 09:03 PM
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Some plants may bleach at high light, others may produce redder pigments and not rely on chlorophyll for photosynthesis. I do not know what's going on in this case but it "may" be possible that brighter light could force some plants to become redder. Something else seems out of balance though as stated before 108W of T5HO is ton of light for most situations.

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