Dosing dry ferts in low tech? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Dosing dry ferts in low tech?

I've started dosing dry ferts in my 55g and now I'm setting up a 10g low tech guppy/shrimp breeding tank. So far, I've only got Java fern and Java moss in there. Since I've already got the ferts, should I add some to the 10g? Benefits, drawbacks?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 10:35 PM
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Well I've got a low-tech with java ferns in it and they are starting to get holes. I was told it was a potassium deficiency. I've started c02 on that tank and will be dosing dry ferts soon. I know I am looking forward to a lot more trimming.

You will have to be consistent with water changes if you do ferts.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not going to run co2 on this setup, and when I get shrimp in there, I know I'll have to be carefull about what I put in there (ferts wise). Just figured, If I got them....?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 11:19 PM
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Just looked this up last night myself. Here is an excerpt from the article (I believe he is referring to Tom Barr's method)

Quote:
As per Tom’s recommendations, dose the following once a week or once in two weeks for a 20 gallon tank. If you have a different sized tank, calculate the required fert dose accordingly.

1/4 Teaspoon of Seachem Equilibrium (for traces and Calcium + Magnesium). (1.42 ppm Ca, 0.42 ppm Mg, 3.43 ppm K and 0.02 ppm Fe)

1/8 Teaspoon of KNO3 (Potassium Nitrate) (5.27 ppm NO3 and 3.32 ppm K)

1/32 Teaspoon of KH2PO4 (Potassium Mono Phosphate) (1.61 ppm PO4 and 0.66 ppm K)


You can use Seachem Flourish, CSM+B or TMG for traces instead of Equilibrium although you would need to calculate the corresponding dosage. (For CSM+B, make a stock solution of 1 tbsp or 3 tsp in 250ml. This is roughly equivalent to a Seachem Flourish bottle. 2mls of CSM+B trace solution, 1x a week for a 10 gallon tank should be fine for a low-tech non excel setup) Basically the above solution is roughly equivalent to regular Seachem Flourish. If you choose to use them in place of Equilibrium, keep in mind that you will then need to add Calcium and Magnesium to your tank by some other means. In addition if you wish to use Seachem Potassium, Nitrogen and Phosphorous, then you can use http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...fertilator.php (Registration required) to calculate what dose of your fertilizer of choice you need for your tank size so as to match the ppm levels of the ferts listed above. (http://www.fishfriend.com/fertfriend.html ,http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_p...osage_calc.htm are some other fertilizer dose calculators)
Source: http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/...ed-tank-guide/


Hope this helps.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 11:22 PM
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If it were me, and I were setting up a tank for shrimp and guppies, I would want it to be as low-maintenance as possible. If it's not going to be set up for aesthetics, I would go for low-light, no c02 and no ferts. Low tech for simplicities sake so I don't have to worry about water changes and parameters as much.

But, that's just me.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 11:30 PM
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Once every seven weeks, I fill up a pill container with the dry ingredients for my low tech tank. Once a week, I open one and dump it in. No water changes, just top offs. Very easy and no holes in my java ferns, crypts, or dwarf sags. Easy. No testing, no water changes. Takes literally seconds a week.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 11:44 PM
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Yep, that's likely mine.

Here's the bloody sucker:

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...on-CO2-methods

I think I also cover some inclusion of sediment based ferts as well.
In general, I suggest both locations for nutrients, regardless of the CO2 or not dilema. I think I bring that up somewhere.

It's very simple to dose, you are doing about 1/2 the typical one time dosing you might with EI, and then only once every 1-2 even 3 weeks, particularly if you have sediment based ferts, then 1/4 once every other week does the trick. Or 1/8th weekly

No water changes, no testing, no hassles.
Slow growth, limited species selections, communities of species etc, but you cannot have it all.


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Tom Barr




Regards,
Tom Barr
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