Water Parameters [Please, help me out!] - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
Water Parameters [Please, help me out!]

Below I have added my water parameters and my live stock:

I am somewhat concerned because I have had some deaths in the past two weeks.




The only thing I dose is Seachem Prime (I use to dose a capful every day until three weeks hit, and my water seemed close to be cycled - I am now one month into my tank)
I have dosed half a cap full of Seachem Flourish Trace Nutrients just twice (two weeks straight)


Casualties:
4 Neon Tetras
2 Blue Ram Cichlids
3 Corys (the one's that stay small with a black pinstripe)

Livestock:
12 Neon Tetras
4 Scarlet Badis
1 Golden Killifish
1 VT Male Betta
2 Electric Blue Baloon Rams
2 Blue Balooon Rams
4 Corys


Water Parameters from today 5/22/16:
Temperature: 78*F
Ammonia: .25ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 5.0ppm
pH: 7.4
GH: 260 mg/L CaCO3
KH: 110 mg/L CACO3

Water Parameters from 5/19 (Thursday)
Temperature: 78*F
Ammonia: .25ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 5.0ppm
pH: 7.4
GH: N/a
KH: N/a



With my nitrate so high should I do a 30% water change, because I did a water change about five days ago?

Any advice would be much appreciated.




Furthermore, I also have some green algae with a little bit of brown algae on my tank.
xquisit is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 08:46 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
Doogy262's Avatar
 
PTrader: (20/100%)
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Warren,Michigan
Posts: 1,059
Hi X,wish I could be more helpful but your parameters don't look bad except the .25 ammonia.There must be something causing this,also I think you meant excel not prime as prime used at water changes to remove chlorine.My nitrates are always high and I have had no problem,are you dosing co2/
Doogy262 is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 09:09 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Raymond S.'s Avatar
 
PTrader: (6/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hot Springs Ar. 71901
Posts: 5,934
Typically, the fish go in after the cycle is complete. And you shouldn't have any
Ammonia after it cycles.
I see the light fixture is right on top of the tank. So what type of fixture and what size
tank is that. If you mentioned it I seemed to have missed it. The distance of the
light from the bottom of the tank being related to the algae, as well as the type it is and
the number of hrs it's on.

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...
Raymond S. is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
For some reason,

I was dosing Seachem Prime daily

(I thought one of the stickies said to dose this daily until my water is cycled, actually this was a sticky from the betta fish forum)


Also, I have dosed Seachem Flourish Comprehensive once a week (2x total for two weeks).


Are my nitrates too high, should I do a 30% water change?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond S. View Post
Typically, the fish go in after the cycle is complete. And you shouldn't have any
Ammonia after it cycles.
I see the light fixture is right on top of the tank. So what type of fixture and what size
tank is that. If you mentioned it I seemed to have missed it. The distance of the
light from the bottom of the tank being related to the algae, as well as the type it is and
the number of hrs it's on.
Sorry for the lack of equipment and tank information.

I am running a low-tech 55g with a Finnex planted+ (On for 10-12 hours a day).

Also, something important to state:

I am using media from a canister filter that has been used in a saltwater nano tank (I am not sure how long the owner used the cnaister filter for)
xquisit is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 12:36 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Maryland Guppy's Avatar
 
PTrader: (15/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arnold
Posts: 3,684
Quote:
Originally Posted by xquisit View Post
For some reason,

I was dosing Seachem Prime daily

(I thought one of the stickies said to dose this daily until my water is cycled, actually this was a sticky from the betta fish forum)


Also, I have dosed Seachem Flourish Comprehensive once a week (2x total for two weeks).


Are my nitrates too high, should I do a 30% water change?


(On for 10-12 hours a day).

I am using media from a canister filter that has been used in a saltwater nano tank
Seachem Prime daily may alter your water testing.
3 weeks of Prime, 1 cap full a day is 105ml
After using Prime for tank size NH3 usually reads .25 for about 24 hours.
Prime also alters NO2 & NO3 tests, they may not be accurate.
I don't know how long Prime remains before dissipating.

Flourish Comp & Trace and both micronutrients almost same product.

Nitrates are not too high.
I would change water to alleviate the Prime IMO 50%
Maybe then a test is more accurate.

10-12 hours is a rather long photoperiod, 7-8 maybe?

Media from salt water setup should be no issue if rinsed well in warm water.

Thinking about this your tank may not be cycled well.
Prime rendering NH3 less harmful could have prevented adequate bacteria growth.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Growing is not that difficult.
Maryland Guppy is online now  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 03:53 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Raymond S.'s Avatar
 
PTrader: (6/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hot Springs Ar. 71901
Posts: 5,934
Likely the green algae is from too long on the hrs of light.
55's were not designed for plants. They came out when you had a "fish tank".
Not that you can't, just a bit hard getting enough light down to plants on the bottom
and avoiding algae in arias near the top(like the rock on the left).
But you have a good arrangement/scape there which should look even better as it starts filling in more.
The fact that you have no nitrites suggest the tank is partially cycled. That part of the cycle is quick to develope. The nitrate part usually takes two weeks after(roughly)the nitrite part is done.
I would listen to what Maryland Guppy said about the Prime.
Only use it as directed at the water changes. Allow the tank to settle. Perhaps even
disreguard testing till after the next water change. Using the recommended amount of Prime and nothing else at that next water change, allow at least 24 hrs after before testing. Then see what you get for the results.

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...
Raymond S. is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
Thank you both,

I will do a 50% water change now, but does this mean I will be adding prime this time or waiting until the next water change?


Thanks again for the kind words about my tank, I will always try my best to keep you folks updated with the growth of the plants; I am a bit bummed out about the dimensions of my tank. I do plan to use my 55g as a sump and buy a bigger tank some day!
xquisit is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 12:46 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Raymond S.'s Avatar
 
PTrader: (6/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hot Springs Ar. 71901
Posts: 5,934
No telling how long the Prime last after using it, but I'd still use the recommended
amount for this water change. But a once only dose, not daily.
The way you have your decorations set up it takes up some/most of what would be
open space without it. Fills in between the bottom and top.
You might want to look into AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor for water change amounts.
The 50% is a good amount for this time, but actually nitrates are used by the plants
so some are useful. People who manipulate them generally aim for about 15. This
doesn't harm most fish, but those Neon tend to like very clean water so 10 might be better in there. Don't know of anyone who actually claims to have tested info on that one. Just keep hearing that Neon's are more sensitive than other fish.

The shortest distance between any two points is a straight line...in the opposite direction...
Raymond S. is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 11:18 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
Maryland Guppy's Avatar
 
PTrader: (15/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arnold
Posts: 3,684
I use 2 drops of Prime per gallon if I am using a 5 gallon bucket.
10 drops for only about 4.5 gallons I reckon.

Food for thought I suppose, please keep us posted!

As a test I performed some water sampling just because.
Took a 5ml nitrate test and put about a 1/2 drop of Prime in.
15 seconds later a 20 or so ppm result turned yellow.
I know from the last tank cycle this works for nitrite also.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Growing is not that difficult.
Maryland Guppy is online now  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 04:42 AM
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 16
First off your nitrates are low. 60 is high.

You should have some nitrites if your tank is showing ammonia. If not then you are not cycled. Looks like you are in the very beginning stage of cycling.
Since you have fish and you are having casualties you are going to have to be on top of your parameters like a mad man. Do water changes daily using prime only for the water change.

Your nitrates are low and that is not the concern. The concern is that you are showing ammonia and not any nitrites. This indicates that you are just starting your nitrogen cycle. You are going to have a spike in ammonia then you should be showing nitrite as well as ammonia. Only until you start showing nitrites should you bee concerned with your nitrate levels during cycling.

You should have a 0 ammonia 0 Nitrite and 20-40 Nitrate reading if cycled. Typically during cycling 5.0 ppm Nitrate reading is right about normal.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Keep your ammonia below 1ppm and aim for .25-.50. With your higher ph(above 7.0), anything over 1ppm pretty much means death. Remember the higher the ph the worse the effect of ammonia poisoning. I had a chart somewhere bit can't seem to find it.

At any rate get ready to do lots of water changes for about 2 weeks. I successfully cycled with 6 neons, 6 serpaes, 3 amano shrimp and a marigold sword in a 55. No casualties or hint of stress. Daily 20-30 percent water changes.

Don't be afraid to do larger changes. A HUGE misconception about the effect of water changes and the nitrogen cycle. Your beneficial bacteria are NOT necessarily in the water but in your filter media, your plants, gravel etc.. water has very little to do with it...that said, I'd rather do the water changes for 2 weeks than kill even a single fish/invertebrate.

Nothing wrong with doing a fish cycle as long as you are lightly stocked and able to be on top of your water parameters and DOING the water changes. More plants helps too.

Hope all this info everyone has given helps.

One other thing...to get Ammonia down from say 1.0 you are going to have to do a 50% water change to get it to .50ppm. then another 50% to get it to .25 and so on. At this point if you are seeing these numbers 2 changes a day is going to get you back on track and then you should be able to continue with the 20-30% changes daily.

UGH!! the Nitrogen cycle.




Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Last edited by Darkblade48; 05-24-2016 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Please use the edit function for back to back posts to keep threads cleaner
m0dest_aquarist is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
I appreciate both of your posts,

I will look forward to more water changes.

It seems as if I am learning a bit daily about the nitrogen cycle, and I really should stop stocking my tank (8 more nano fish incoming)
xquisit is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 01:50 AM
Algae Grower
 
Savetheplants's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 133
How's it going? I hope everything is alright with your tank. Love your layout and the effort you made to provide us with parameters. Your GH is 260 mg/l CaCO3. That's high for Los Angeles where the tap water averages a GH of 119 according to the water quality report. I just wanted to add that Blue Neons are sensitive to osmotic shock. So, a large GH unequilibrated water change might be harmful to them and other fish. Pardon me if you already know this but some of the forum readers might not yet know. You have my sympathy if you didn't know this and something went wrong.

The part about Prime affecting your testing is interesting. Los Angeles water has between 1.7 and 2.1 mg/l total residual chlorine. Therefore, I'm going to dose Amquel to eliminate 2.1 mg/l Cl so there is not much left over to affect other things. It seems that dechlorinators stay active for about 24 hours. Starting next water change I am going to dechlorinate 24 hours ahead of time to help keep the dechlorinator from neutralizing the metals in my fertilizers. I couldn't believe it when I read this little goody. Somebody please tell me it's wrong.
Savetheplants is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
Sorry for the delay, Savetheplants, and thank you for speaking on my layout - I really am thankful for you!

My water seems to be a little off for Los Angeles water, should I start testing my tap water by itself?

No wonder my Neon Tetras die here and there, and same with my Betta and other fish. It probably has to do with the hardness of my water.

I can't use my dechlorinator on the water itself, I wait to do to the water change and add it to my tank.

When I do water changes, I use a siphon to take the water from my bedroom tank to the restroom down the hallway. When it comes down to pouring water back in my tank, I use one bowl and keep making trips back and forth.

I will respond back tomorrow with my water parameters as I have done a water change yesterday and am afraid the Prime will be active for 24-48hours.

My layout has changed a little bit on the left hand side - I made my rock layout a bit more appealing to the eye.

*Will share pictures later*


Last edited by xquisit; 06-12-2016 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Added picture
xquisit is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 11:10 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
That rock looks like a limestone sort of rock.
In soft, acidic water it will dissolve, adding calcium, magnesium and carbonates to the water.

To find out if this is the cause:
Test tap water GH, KH, pH.
Set up a bucket/jar/whatever of tap water with a chunk of the rock in it.
Test GH, KH, pH daily for a few days.

This can be a big problem in this sort of tank for 2 reasons:
1) You are keeping soft water fish that prefer less minerals in the water.
2) Your tank water is so much different from the tap water that every time you do a large water change you are subjecting the fish to changing mineral levels. Fish have a hard time adjusting to such large changes in such a short time.
Diana is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
xquisit's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 190
Are you talking about the super bright rock inbetween the two huge rocks?

If so, I will take it out and run tests.

I have so many different types of fish.

I even added guppies.
xquisit is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome