WC and PH levels - The Planted Tank Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (6/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 71
WC and PH levels

I started a 120g last week; its got a fairly heavy plant load and is currently cycling. My tap water has a high degree of ph (7.8 - 8.0 after sitting 24 hours) but i've got a lot of driftwood in the tank to help soften the water and lower the ph. so far it has in that my ph readings have been about 7.2.

two questions though...
1) I'm begining to think WC could be a problem given that i'm adding a higher ph water into the tank. can i assume this a problem i face going forward and what can i do about it (besides using an RO system, which I'm reluctant to do)?

2) will the effect of driftwood i'm having on the ph continue to be this strong or will it fade with time?

opinions? thanks
iliketogolf is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 05:24 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
bradac56's Avatar
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Blue Springs, MO
Posts: 1,157
Send a message via AIM to bradac56 Send a message via MSN to bradac56 Send a message via Yahoo to bradac56 Send a message via Skype™ to bradac56
1.) You can age the water in a pre-mix container (brute trashcan or 100+gal water tank) along with a heater to get the temp right and throw in some peat moss to lower the ph.

2.) It will decrease over time as the tannins fully leach out of the wood.

- Brad

Proud member of the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


VICTOR PIMP #58 -
VTS-253A-320 x2, VTS-253D-320, VTS-253A-1993-320.
bradac56 is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 06:56 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (84/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21,012
Keep in mind that water changes are very good for any aquarium, so it is desirable to do them regularly. Anything that makes water changes more complicated or more work tends to lead to increasing intervals between changes. That should encourage you to just use tap water, with some dechlorinator added for all water changes - no aging, no peat, no RO water, etc. If you find it cause problems with fish or plants, then is the time to work on that problem.

Hoppy
Hoppy is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2010, 07:35 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
bradac56's Avatar
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Blue Springs, MO
Posts: 1,157
Send a message via AIM to bradac56 Send a message via MSN to bradac56 Send a message via Yahoo to bradac56 Send a message via Skype™ to bradac56
I guess that depends on your setup. I run 30+ tanks with more to come so just running a python from a sink to each tank is allot more time consuming that pre-mixing the water/declorinator/ferts/etc and pushing it with a sump pump while working on other tanks.

For one little tank sure your right ... until it's the dead of winter and you pump 20 degree water into the tank after taking a bit to much water out of it and your fish go belly up on the bottom of the tank. I've seen that happen way to many times, after that happens getting a trash can for pre-mix'ing becomes a much easier task.

- Brad

Proud member of the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


VICTOR PIMP #58 -
VTS-253A-320 x2, VTS-253D-320, VTS-253A-1993-320.
bradac56 is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 03:31 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (84/100%)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21,012
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradac56 View Post
I guess that depends on your setup. I run 30+ tanks with more to come so just running a python from a sink to each tank is allot more time consuming that pre-mixing the water/declorinator/ferts/etc and pushing it with a sump pump while working on other tanks.

For one little tank sure your right ... until it's the dead of winter and you pump 20 degree water into the tank after taking a bit to much water out of it and your fish go belly up on the bottom of the tank. I've seen that happen way to many times, after that happens getting a trash can for pre-mix'ing becomes a much easier task.

- Brad
Good points! One size doesn't always fit everyone.

Hoppy
Hoppy is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 04:15 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
To control the pH it is usually better to aim at the buffer that is holding it up so high, usually KH. If you can pre-treat the water to lower the KH then the pH ought to drop. Do the treatment outside the tank. Do not add tap water directly to the tank when the parameters are so different.
Often fish that prefer softer, more acidic water also prefer lower GH.

Don't chase pH.

If you need to alter the water chemistry make sure you know what you are doing and do it right.
Diana is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 04:23 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
OverStocked's Avatar
 
PTrader: (76/94%)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SoDak
Posts: 10,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Keep in mind that water changes are very good for any aquarium, so it is desirable to do them regularly. Anything that makes water changes more complicated or more work tends to lead to increasing intervals between changes. That should encourage you to just use tap water, with some dechlorinator added for all water changes - no aging, no peat, no RO water, etc. If you find it cause problems with fish or plants, then is the time to work on that problem.
I agree.

I do not foresee a problem, especially since after a short while, most driftwood has little effect(for me).

I would NOT worry about trying to get some "ideal" pH and focus on Stability.
OverStocked is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 04:24 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
OverStocked's Avatar
 
PTrader: (76/94%)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SoDak
Posts: 10,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradac56 View Post
I guess that depends on your setup. I run 30+ tanks with more to come so just running a python from a sink to each tank is allot more time consuming that pre-mixing the water/declorinator/ferts/etc and pushing it with a sump pump while working on other tanks.

For one little tank sure your right ... until it's the dead of winter and you pump 20 degree water into the tank after taking a bit to much water out of it and your fish go belly up on the bottom of the tank. I've seen that happen way to many times, after that happens getting a trash can for pre-mix'ing becomes a much easier task.

- Brad
I live in the frigid north and have NEVER had a problem with killing fish in the winter. The trick to filling them back up if the tap water is really really cold is to add just a touch of warm(softened...) and go slow.
OverStocked is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (6/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by over_stocked View Post

I would NOT worry about trying to get some "ideal" pH and focus on Stability.
I agree.

That was the point I was getting at is that I have zero desire to chase ph (i get the importance of stability). However, my concern was mixing a higher ph tap water with a lower ph of my tank via WC's would cause my ph to flucuate (I assume it would rise with WC and slowly settle back down because of the driftwood in the tank).

Last edited by iliketogolf; 03-19-2010 at 03:24 PM.
iliketogolf is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 02:07 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
bradac56's Avatar
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Blue Springs, MO
Posts: 1,157
Send a message via AIM to bradac56 Send a message via MSN to bradac56 Send a message via Yahoo to bradac56 Send a message via Skype™ to bradac56
The pH is is going to fluctuate a little no matter what you do and a little doesn't hurt anything it's just the big swings you have to worry about. As Diana says the ,kH is usually a better thing to watch that pH.

Proud member of the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


VICTOR PIMP #58 -
VTS-253A-320 x2, VTS-253D-320, VTS-253A-1993-320.
bradac56 is offline  
post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 02:11 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
bradac56's Avatar
 
PTrader: (9/100%)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Blue Springs, MO
Posts: 1,157
Send a message via AIM to bradac56 Send a message via MSN to bradac56 Send a message via Yahoo to bradac56 Send a message via Skype™ to bradac56
Quote:
Originally Posted by over_stocked View Post
I live in the frigid north and have NEVER had a problem with killing fish in the winter. The trick to filling them back up if the tap water is really really cold is to add just a touch of warm(softened...) and go slow.
I'm down here in Kansas City, MO and I get at least two calls a winter from friends that have bellied up there fish from very cold water changes. The one from this year probably did a 60% WC and then dumped water straight from the tap after reading all of the postings here and on other forums (I did warn him several times) so now he's ordering a small jehmco water container and sump.

I guess it's a live and learn type of thing, there's several ways to not have this problem, personally I never run my hot water hookup in the basement I just heat the water in my pre-mix container since I fill it a day before I do water changes.

- Brad

Proud member of the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
and the
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


VICTOR PIMP #58 -
VTS-253A-320 x2, VTS-253D-320, VTS-253A-1993-320.
bradac56 is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome