fertilizers for my tank - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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fertilizers for my tank

hi there, i am new to this and i am not sure about what i am doing, so your comments will be very helpful for me.
I'll give all the information about my tank.

Tank dimensions:
it is a 4 footer tank ( L48" - W17" - H18.5")

filtering system
i am using dolphin 1300 external filter

Heating:
jagar 200 W

substrate:
i am using normal 4-5mm gravel (natural)

lighting:
2 Sylvania Gro-lux 48" T8 (36 w)
1 Arcadia Original Tropical 48" T8 (36 w)
1 Philips Aqua-Rell 48" T8 (36 w)
Operating with timer for 10 Hours ( from 13:00 to 23:00 )
light fixed 4.5" above the tank

CO2 System:
Pressurized CO2 system with:
Milwaukee CO2 Regulator (MA 957)
Weipro ( PH-2010) PH controller
DIY Reactor (Rex. Design)
the CO2 system operating 24 hours. i do not know if i should turned off at night. My PH set to 6.8 and it is moving between 6.73-6.86.

Fertilizers:
i am using seachem products , coz it is the only product available in my area.

Flourish: 2x 5ml every week
Flourish (k): 2x 10ml every week
Flourish phosphorus : 2x 3.75ml every week
Flourish Nitrogen: 2x 3.75ml every week
Flourish Trace: 2x 15ml every week
Flourish Excel : 6x 6ml every week
Flourish Iron : 6x 6ml every week
End of the week 50% water change and add 4ml seachem Prim.

test kits are difficult to find here so the only things i know are the value of my NO3 (5-10 ppm), and the KH (6).
i am using Tap water

My plants are not growing fast i don't know why?????
so like i said any comment will be very helpful for me.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 08:07 PM
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You should be able to buy or make a drop checker to help you determine how much CO2 you are getting into the water. Lots of them are made in China and should be available to you. Or, making one isn't hard to do. With your KH test kit and some bicarbonate of soda you can make a 4 degrees KH standard water solution for the drop checker, but get distilled water, not tap water, for that.

Once you get the CO2 adjusted to give you 30+ ppm, you should turn off the CO2 at night to avoid overdosing the fish. I wouldn't use the pH controller, but if you do use it, set it to maintain the pH that the tank water reaches when the drop checker shows that you have 30+ ppm of CO2 in the water.

You probably have low to medium intensity light, but that is just a guess. If that's true, you don't need to try to keep the CO2 as high as the fish can tolerate, a lower concentration will work well enough.

I think Seachem's recommended dosages are for a low light tank, and have been found to be too low for a higher light tank. That would encourage me to double the recommended dosages, relying on the weekly water change to get rid of any excess. You could dose all of those you mentioned, but the Flourish Trace is little more than pure water, so you don't need to dose it.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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thanks a lot Hoppy for your information, I'll try to find one but i don't think it is easy to find.
so you think that is the reason that the plants are not growing?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hi there, so any other comments on my tank..............need your comments
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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hi there,
so i get my drop checker from one of my friends with the solution (aqua medic).
i well fix it tonight, but i got a question?
i didn't understand what hoppy said about a KH test kit and bicarbonate of soda, so please i need explanation?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 05:29 PM
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If you need to make a 4dKH standard water solution - distilled water plus enough bicarbonate of soda to get 4 dKH of carbonate hardness - then you need a KH test kit. But, you apparently have the 4 dKH solution. However, you may just have the bromothymol blue indicator solution, so be sure to check that. And, never use tank water or tap water in a drop checker. It has to have water with nothing in it that can affect the pH of the water except carbonates.

It seems that most problems with getting good plant growth end up being CO2 problems, at least with medium to high light tanks. Second, and a distant second, based on what I read, is inadequate phosphate dosing because of the fear that phosphates cause algae. If you have low light that is a different thing entirely. Then it is probably more likely that a shortage of nutrients in general, or just not having enough light is the problem.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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thanks a lot Hoppy for your information's,

so i think i well order a drop checker for my self.

i got a question, what is the best time for adding fertilizers to the tank????
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussain View Post
thanks a lot Hoppy for your information's,

so i think i well order a drop checker for my self.

i got a question, what is the best time for adding fertilizers to the tank????
It doesn't matter when you add fertilizers. Fertilizing isn't an exact thing, where you have exact goals, and a rigid schedule you have to follow. If you use an Estimative Index type fertilizing method, where you maintain non-limiting amounts of all of the nutrients in the water, you can be pretty relaxed about when you dose, and how often you dose. If you also have low light you can be very casual about dosing.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Hoppy for your reply,

like i said i get the drop checker, and made the solution of 4 KH, so now can i fix it in the tank , because i am a little bit confused , my KH is 6 so haw this happens? if my KH is 6 and my PH is 6.8, so if the solution is 4KH then the PH well drop down.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

and there is one thing, do i need to mix the 4KH solution with anything for indication. and after fixing the drop checker in the tank, shall i keep it there for long time or i need to take it of and test it again.

sorry for all these questions.

Last edited by Hussain; 02-24-2010 at 11:18 AM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 02:28 PM
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The rule of thumb for adding ferts is an hour before the lights turn on that's about when your C02 should be kicking in as well. Like Hoppy said it's not an exact science but ideally you want the ferts to cycle in the tank a bit before the lights turn on and the plants start there uptake.

~

I agree with Hoppy on the PH Controller, a good Needle valve (Ideal or Swag) would serve you better and cost less.

~

Also 10 hours of light seems to be a bit high if you start to develop algae I would reduce it to eight hours. But that depends on your tank so it's just something to think about.

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