Fine tuning PPS Pro dosing level - The Planted Tank Forum
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
Fine tuning PPS Pro dosing level

I recently started daily dosing with the PPS-Pro macro recommendations (less K) after appearing to have exhausted all substrate nutrients roughly 12 months after startup. I periodically dosed flourish and flourish tabs into a mix of fluorite, eco complete, active flora and flora max over the first 12 months, as well. Plants grew like weeds the first 6 months, several of them a few inches above the water line, then began slowing down and ceased pearling. I did a major trim to get rid of stalks and overgrown water sprite and water lettuce, the latter as much as half the volume several times per week to keep it from overrunning the entire surface.

At that point NO3 was 0 and PO4 between .05 and .1. PH is steady at 6.4 to 6.6 with very high light and pressurized CO2. GH and KH varied between 2 and 3 depending on the amount and frequency of Seachem REPLENISH used in the RO water change of 20% per week.

So here is my thought. After replanting back to pre-deforestation levels with several groups of Ludwigia and Rotala and then after 10 days of the 1ml per gallon of PPS dosing, NO3 was 50ppm, PO4 2.5ppm and Ca 35ppm, all with brand new top shelf test kits. I did 2 water changes of 25% each but now using Equilibrium instead of Replenish. I also dosed a few times with Flourish potassium and a few times with Flourish, but no where near the mfg recommendations. I did not record the amounts or frequency, but it was sporadic at best.

Since nutrient levels rose dramatically with 1ml per day dosing, the plant uptake is clearly less than the dose. So after the high readings, I skipped a day and then retested at the end of the day and NO3 dropped from 50 to 10-20, PO4 from 2.5 to 1 and CA from 35 to 20. So the next morning I dosed .5ml instead of 1ml and tests taken at the end that day were NO3 = 20, PO4 =.5-1 and CA 25. The 2nd day NO3 result was hard to determine so that is why I gave a range, same with the 3rd day PO4. Top off with RO water was minimal in order not to change concentrations if that has an effect.

My goal is to determine the amount of dose that keeps the levels constant day to day as opposed to actual values but still stay within safe acceptable ranges. BUT, if nutrients are not used in similar proportions, a 50% reduction in dosing could result in wide differences in specific levels either up or down, this I do not know.

After reviewing the most recent posts and photos of toxicity and deficiency, all the plants in question honestly look all the same to me regardless of toxicity or deficiency. Therefore, I think it wiser for me to fine tune the PPS dose based on changes in measurable values, instead of observations which if not viewed properly, could lead to sudden toxicity or a deficiency after the fact.

Should I continue this on and off dosing between weekly water changes and continue varying the dose amounts in order to determine the effect on plant usage, or is that an exercise in futility or perhaps even stupidity? I definitely noticed increased growth in many of the foreground plants after dosing, but I donít want too much growth that would require daily pruning in order to avoid having to clear cut.

Thanks in advance.
Bobby

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 03:46 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
You are aimed in the right direction:
Maintain the PPS suggested ratio of each nutrient, but alter the whole recipe by X% (whatever works for your tank). Or, if you already know your tap water has an excess of something that is available to the plants, then start out with lower or no dose of that element.

Then fine tune whatever you have a test kit for. "Test kit" includes observing the plants.

Whatever products you are using, read the label carefully for active and 'inactive' ingredients (when these are listed). For example, many fertilizers are derived from the sulfate form of a particular mineral, but the label does not often say how much sulfate will be added to the tank. Or, if you use calcium carbonate as a source of calcium, it might not tell you the fertilizer will also raise the carbonates by a certain amount.

If you are following the NO3, as you have been, and see that it climbs slowly through the week but does not get too high, then a water change sets it back down to where you want it, then maintain that dose. You could split it into 2 or 3 doses and spread them out though the week.
Then target the PO4. Plants use N:P in a ratio of about 10:1. The water does not have to have this exact ratio, but something close is a good starting point.
Remember the fish food also supplies N, P and most traces, so when you alter the dosing by a certain amount, but see an odd test result, you are testing the NO3 from both fertilizer and fish food. You may have to alter the fertilizer dose again to determine just how much fertilizer to use.

It will be an ongoing program as the plants grow, and as you get the nutrients dialed in. The plants will grow better without extremes and deficiencies of nutrients, and this might mean they will start to use more of something (or more of everything) because the fertilizer balance is getting right on target. As long as they are not showing deficiencies there is nothing wrong with keeping the dosing low enough so you are not having to wade into the tank with a machete each week.
Diana is offline  
post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
If you are following the NO3, as you have been, and see that it climbs slowly through the week but does not get too high, then a water change sets it back down to where you want it, then maintain that dose. You could split it into 2 or 3 doses and spread them out though the week.
Then target the PO4. Plants use N:P in a ratio of about 10:1. The water does not have to have this exact ratio, but something close is a good starting point.
Thank you for your response. I picked the PPS pro method because i liked the idea of optional water changes and there was no fixed percentage, since I must use RO water due to insane hardness and copper, so making and heating 50 gallons in a single batch is not practical. Also, it is easier for me to remember to dose daily. I purchased the GLA products and the label does not give much information. Like my post said, I am trying to determine the amount of daily usage by the plants and then provide that amount, so I'll continue with the .5ml dose until the NO3 climbs too high. Again, thank you for your time.

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
 
post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 11:22 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
roadmaster's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Missouri united states
Posts: 5,576
Very high light you are using as mentioned, will drive the demand.
As plant mass increases,demand will increase for nutrient's as well as CO2 under very high lighting.
You have new substrate now?
Flourite and Eco complete have good CEC capabilities and after a year,I would expect the substrate to be fairly well impregnated with nutrient's from fish food's /fish waste,detritus,dead plant matter.
Point being,I doubt the substrate was exhausted.
Maybe a bit depleted depending on plant mass,stocking level's,feedings over a year.
Too much testing for me, to try and maintain what plant's might need per day but I would dose what method I chose call's for and put away test kit's for a while.
Might consider reducing the light if explosive growth is not wanted before I began practicing limitation, or trying to provide exact range of nutrient's at ?ppm
But that's just me.
Does your fish store use R/O water? any neighbor's use tap water with fish tank's?
roadmaster is offline  
post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 12:47 PM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
To figure out a dosing ratio you might look at the EI recipe.
Here is how I have been altering it:

I am mostly running low tech tanks, and EI was adding too much NO3, so I reduced the KNO3, but added in K2SO4 so the plants got the potassium.
I reduced the KH2PO4 by the same amount, since I know the NO3 in my tanks was at least partially due to fish food (which also has phosphorus).

I have recently been seeing some posts concerning excess trace minerals building up in the substrate and suggestions to minimize dosing of traces. This did not seem to be much of a problem with sand, gravel or other low CEC substrates, but in soils that can hold onto nutrients there does seem to be some possibility this is valid.
For this reason, I would reduce dosing of traces (CSM+B) to perhaps 1/10 of whatever KH2PO4 you are dosing. Might have to add a little chelated iron, though. Plants use more iron than is in some trace mixes, and when you are dosing so very little I think the iron is helpful.

I have found the fertilator at APC to be very useful. There are other dosing calculators, but each works a bit differently.
Diana is offline  
post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diana View Post
I reduced the KH2PO4 by the same amount, since I know the NO3 in my tanks was at least partially due to fish food (which also has phosphorus).

I have recently been seeing some posts concerning excess trace minerals building up in the substrate and suggestions to minimize dosing of traces. This did not seem to be much of a problem with sand, gravel or other low CEC substrates, but in soils that can hold onto nutrients there does seem to be some possibility this is valid.
For this reason, I would reduce dosing of traces (CSM+B) to perhaps 1/10 of whatever KH2PO4 you are dosing. Might have to add a little chelated iron, though. Plants use more iron than is in some trace mixes, and when you are dosing so very little I think the iron is helpful.
Diana, I think you are correct regarding the iron. I had it on order yesterday. I bought the CSM+B but have not started yet since I had plenty of Flourish on hand and had stuck in fresh root tabs. I did not want to overload the micros but the lower leaves look ratty so I thought that I would need some Fe. I am keeping the formula the same for now, just trying to adjust the dose. With these dry ferts all in one solution, seems too difficult to adjust more than one at a time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadmaster View Post
You have new substrate now?
Flourite and Eco complete have good CEC capabilities and after a year,I would expect the substrate to be fairly well impregnated with nutrient's from fish food's /fish waste,detritus,dead plant matter.
Point being,I doubt the substrate was exhausted.
Maybe a bit depleted depending on plant mass,stocking level's,feedings over a year.

Does your fish store use R/O water? any neighbor's use tap water with fish tank's?
Original substrate which must have been loaded with macros since growth and pearling was beyond wild. One plant pearled so much that as the water flow made the plant sway, the oxygen bubbles were making a figure 8 pattern at the surface.

LFS closed a few months ago, and the remaining stores although within a 25 mile drive, have completely different geology. Some are municipal sources from reservoirs and some are private and township wells. The store I buy the most from keeps his tanks at roughly 8 GH and KH, while I was shooting for 2 or 3. But the copper is so high from my tap that the township had to install some form of remediation on the well that is 1/2 mile from my house. I live in the NJ Highlands which for NJ, is actually considered mountains.

Regarding the light, I do like the super brightness and would rather fine tune the dose instead of limiting the light. The tank is 90 gallons and covered 85% with plants, the other 15% is a shale rock pile for fish to hide/spawn/make out in. That is why I was surprised that the recommended PPS level would cause such a dramatic rise. I could only imagine how tanks with less mass and lower light are reacting.

Thank you people for your help.

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 10:18 PM
Wannabe Guru
 
Edward's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: at home
Posts: 1,358
Wow, so much fun Bobby.
I have a question or two.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
I recently started daily dosing with the PPS-Pro macro recommendations (less K) after appearing to have exhausted all substrate nutrients Ö
Why did you decide to put less K in the recipe, especially under very strong light?

Your NO3 increased from zero to 50 ppm in ten days of dosing 1 ml per 10 gallon. This solution is adding 1 ppm NO3 per dose per day. That is 10 ppm minus plant uptake in ten days. Clearly your 50 ppm NO3 did not come from this fertilizer.

Your PO4 increased from zero to 2.5 ppm in ten days of dosing 1 ml per 10 gallon. This solution is adding 0.1 ppm PO4 per dose per day. That is 1 ppm minus plant uptake in ten days. Clearly your 2.5 ppm PO4 did not come from this fertilizer.

Your GH was between 2 and 3 dGH before. Now after ten days you have 35 ppm of Ca. This 35 ppm of Ca represents 5 dGH. Where did it come from? PPS solution #1 macros and #2 micros do not include Ca.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
... So after the high readings, I skipped a day and then retested at the end of the day and NO3 dropped from 50 to 10-20, PO4 from 2.5 to 1 and CA from 35 to 20.
Drop of 30 ppm of NO3 in one day? How? Plants cannot possibly have consumed that.
Drop of 1.5 ppm of PO4 in one day?
Drop of 15 ppm of Ca in one day?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
My goal is to determine the amount of dose that keeps the levels constant day to day as opposed to actual values but still stay within safe acceptable ranges. BUT, if nutrients are not used in similar proportions, a 50% reduction in dosing could result in wide differences in specific levels either up or down, this I do not know.
Maybe when you find an explanation for the above anomalies then we can get better results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
After reviewing the most recent posts and photos of toxicity and deficiency, all the plants in question honestly look all the same to me regardless of toxicity or deficiency. Therefore, I think it wiser for me to fine tune the PPS dose based on changes in measurable values, instead of observations which if not viewed properly, could lead to sudden toxicity or a deficiency after the fact.
You will do better if you reduce the very high light energy and dose as suggested daily until the ecosystem starts working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
I definitely noticed increased growth in many of the foreground plants after dosing, but I donít want too much growth that would require daily pruning in order to avoid having to clear cut.
There is only one option how to slow down the growth and that is by reducing light energy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
Like my post said, I am trying to determine the amount of daily usage by the plants and then provide that amount, so I'll continue with the .5ml dose until the NO3 climbs too high.
That is not the proper dose for your 90 gallon aquarium. The recommended dose for macros is at 1 ml per 10 gallon, which is 9 ml, not 0.5 ml.
And for micros 2 drops per 10 gallon, so 18 drops for your aquarium.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
Regarding the light, I do like the super brightness and would rather fine tune the dose instead of limiting the light.
I wish it was like that but unfortunately plants donít work that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
I bought the CSM+B but have not started yet since I had plenty of Flourish on hand and had stuck in fresh root tabs.
This is a joke right? Why did you named this thread ďFine tuning PPS Pro dosing levelĒ when you have not started it yet?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Edward is offline  
post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
Edward, I really don't joke when it comes to aquariums. The PPS recommendations called for K as optional, so since there is a heavy fish load I figured I would start without it. But I realized that this may have been a mistake, so I did pick up Seachem locally and started dosing less than the Seachem recommendations.

As far as the Micro, as I stated earlier I had been using Flourish prior to the dry fertilizer and had put some tabs in so I decided not to start the CSM+B until the Flourish was finished and the tabs had a chance to dissolve.

As far as Nitrogen, I am confident in the readings as they appear to go up and down with the decrease and increase in dose. This morning I continued with .5ml and NO3 tested between 25 and 50 on the Salifert chart, but closer to 25, so I would call that 30-35. But it clearly rose 10-15 ppm between last night and tonight same time. So the answer must be that I either mixed in incorrectly (using a Lyman scale accurate to 3 decimal places) or the GLA ferts were perhaps mislabeled or something. Since it does rise and fall in direct relation to the dose, there is a connection somewhere even if the numbers are off slightly.

Considering that I had 0 N03 and maybe .1-.2 PO4 at most for the past several months prior to dosing, and basically the same number of fish, plant load and feeding habits, I could not imagine what would cause N to rise from 0 to 50 in such a short time period. But since it did, I am either testing wrong, dosing wrong, or the plants are not utilizing all of it each day. I will throw out the balance of the macro and mix over again.

PO4 has been inconsistent but rose today after the .5ml dosing by .5.

As far as CA is concerned, I made too many changes in top off and water change parameters to isolate, so I just mentioned it. TDS has remained fairly constant around 135 ppm.

So again, my point is that in my tank, which has extremely high light, high plant and high fish load, I was surprised that the N03 rose that much, but it does seem to rise and fall along with the corresponding change in dose, keeping the ratios the same.

That is what attracted me to the PPS method; not having to tinker with specific ratios. So I will start the micro dosing using the Plantex to see if that makes any difference in the macro test results. No harm no foul.

Thank you for the helpful suggestions.

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 03:22 AM
Wannabe Guru
 
Edward's Avatar
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: at home
Posts: 1,358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbybills View Post
The PPS recommendations called for K as optional, Ö
Please tell me where?

Quote:
The PPS recommendations called for K as optional, so since there is a heavy fish load I figured I would start without it.
Fish waste does not contribute to K levels. (Unless they consume bananas)

Quote:
But I realized that this may have been a mistake, so I did pick up Seachem locally and started dosing less than the Seachem recommendations.
Not compatible.

Quote:
As far as the Micro, as I stated earlier I had been using Flourish prior to the dry fertilizer and had put some tabs in so I decided not to start the CSM+B until the Flourish was finished and the tabs had a chance to dissolve.
Not compatible. Try getting the tabs out if you can.

Quote:
As far as Nitrogen, I am confident in the readings as they appear to go up and down with the decrease and increase in dose. This morning I continued with .5ml and NO3 tested between 25 and 50 on the Salifert chart, but closer to 25, so I would call that 30-35. But it clearly rose 10-15 ppm between last night and tonight same time. So the answer must be that I either mixed in incorrectly (using a Lyman scale accurate to 3 decimal places) or the GLA ferts were perhaps mislabeled or something. Since it does rise and fall in direct relation to the dose, there is a connection somewhere even if the numbers are off slightly.
Ok, something is not right and we have to find it. Consider this, get 1L (1000 ml) of water and test it for NO3. If it reads zero, then add into this 1L water 5 drops of PPS-Pro solution #1 macros. Stir it and test it again. Now it should read 10 ppm of NO3. If it does not read 10 ppm then you need to call Houston, because we have a problem.

Quote:
Considering that I had 0 N03 and maybe .1-.2 PO4 at most for the past several months prior to dosing, and basically the same number of fish, plant load and feeding habits, I could not imagine what would cause N to rise from 0 to 50 in such a short time period. But since it did, I am either testing wrong, dosing wrong, or the plants are not utilizing all of it each day. I will throw out the balance of the macro and mix over again.
The solutions content is not a secret. Solution #1 macros, adds daily 1 ppm of NO3. Think about your 50 ppm swings in just ten days.

Quote:
As far as Ca is concerned, I made too many changes in top off and water change parameters to isolate, so I just mentioned it. TDS has remained fairly constant around 135 ppm.
Ah.., so you have one, beautiful. Even though you said ppm, which is not the right TDS unit for aquariums we can make it very usable tool.
So, watching your massive water parameter swings it must have had an effect on the TDS readings.
What is your water source TDS reading? (including the unit, ppm, EC or ĶS, please see https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11...tds-meter.html)
What is your aquarium TDS reading?

Quote:
So again, my point is that in my tank, which has extremely high light, high plant and high fish load, I was surprised that the N03 rose that much, but it does seem to rise and fall along with the corresponding change in dose, keeping the ratios the same.
The 1 ml per 10 gallon of solution #1 adds only 1 ppm of NO3 a day.

Quote:
That is what attracted me to the PPS method; not having to tinker with specific ratios.
Of course you donít have to use test kits and change solutions content to make it working. There is too much misinformation out there. In reality, you donít have to use any test kits to use PPS-Pro when you have a TDS meter.

Quote:
So I will start the micro dosing using the Plantex to see if that makes any difference in the macro test results.
First, I hope the Plantex is Plantex CSM + B and second, the Plantex CSM+B is micros, not macros.

You have extremely high lights, high fish load and less than proper plant nutrients. It is the perfect recipe for a disaster. My recommendation is to dose daily solution #1 macros at 1 ml per 10 gallon and daily solution #2 micros at 2 drops per 10 gallon while keeping TDS reading at tap TDS + 100 with water changes. No need to use test kits.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Edward is offline  
post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 03:33 AM
Algae Grower
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 68
I am reading in enjoyment eating popcorn...

Mike
MaroMan and MaroMan like this.
mredman is offline  
post #11 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 04:21 AM
Algae Grower
 
Calestus's Avatar
 
PTrader: (2/100%)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 135
Awesome responses.

@Edward , why are seachem flourish tabs not compatible with PPS Pro?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Calestus is offline  
post #12 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
I use RO water (tds reads 6 when it sits for a while) so I was adding Replenish for water changes but switched to Equilibrium per the recommended dosage to get 3 GH. I have not prepared any new water yet so I will take a TDS reading once that is done. I've only had the meter a few days after starting PPS but did not record precise readings, but most of the readings for tank water were in the 135-145 range as best I can remember.

A few sources claimed that K was optional if there was not a deficiency since the other 2 macros would add what was needed, and I thought that I read some time ago that frozen fish foods contain potassium iodide, although in trace amounts. I feed two to three cubes of frozen food per day so that is why I said high fish load, I was referring to the high food volume. But after doing more research, I started adding the Seachem K not thinking that the source made a difference. I began doseing 1ml per gallon every few days which is 2/3 of their suggested amounts.

Since I had Flourish left, I searched the internet to see if it can be used instead of CSM+B and I remembered an expert saying that it was ok to use the Flourish as recommended because TE levels are not that critical. I just reduced the amount, like I always have, because of the root tabs, so as to not overdose on micros.

I will conduct the 1ppm NO3 test tomorrow before I make the new batch of macros just in case the measured values are true. I will make up the batch of CSM+B (yes it is for micros, not macros) and start that dosing instead of the Flourish. Removing the root tabs would require a lot of digging under plants that are just starting to root so I would prefer not to do that.

Again, thank you so much for your input.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mredman View Post
I am reading in enjoyment eating popcorn...

Mike
Corn is no good for you....stay away from popcorn.

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
post #13 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 05:40 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
roadmaster's Avatar
 
PTrader: (1/100%)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Missouri united states
Posts: 5,576
Too much light is no good for you .
Is easiest variable in planted tank to control/dial in.
roadmaster is offline  
post #14 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 07:57 AM
Planted Tank Guru
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Contra Costa CA
Posts: 11,721
Here is how I would approach this. Maybe just another way of thinking about it rather than an actual solution:

1) What are the ingredients in the root tabs? Some are just macros, some have micros. (Since you are holding off dosing micros, I assume you have read the label on the tabs, and they contain both macros and micros)

2) Fish food usually supplies reasonable amounts of N, P and most micros.
Fish food is usually low in K, Fe, Ca and Mg.

3) Sounds like you have the Ca and Mg under control with Seachem Equilibrium. Note that this also adds K. If your goal is to keep soft water fish, perhaps GH = 3 degrees, 4 tablespoons in a 90 gallon tank will give you GH = 3 degrees, 36.6ppm K, 15.1ppm Ca, 4.5ppm Mg, .2ppm Fe.
Q- Are the plants using this much through the week? What are the GH, Ca and Fe tests showing you? I think the Fe is in a form that must be used pretty fast or else it gets locked up in the substrate, so either way the Fe test will show little or no Fe after 24-48 hours.

4) "Plantex" CSM+B is now Nutritrace CSM+B. Note that 1/8 teaspoon will give you .1ppm Fe. This is a chelated Fe, so might last a bit longer in the tank, but I am not sure how test kits respond to chelated iron.

5) Aquatic plants seem to use a lot of potassium. I would use the plants as a 'test kit', and watch for small dark spots, or holes in the leaves as a sign of potassium deficiency. Dose the moment you see the smallest spots, don't wait for the holes to appear. Do the fertilizer tabs have K? Keep a close eye on the plants and be ready to dose as the fertilizer tablets get used up.

6) Could the fertilizer tablets be contributing NO3 to the water? If all the tests and dosing are correct, and the extreme rise in NO3 is valid, it has to have come from somewhere!
I think we are eliminating possibilities:
Wrong mix of fertilizers- how did the test suggested above come out? (almost at the bottom of post #9: add a certain number of drops to 1l of water, test NO3. This will confirm if the mix is correct. If it is not, then it will tell you how to alter the amount you add to the tank so the NO3 rises just as much as you want.)
Fish food- Since prior to fertilizing there was little or no NO3, and if you have not increased the feeding, then the fish food is still contributing too little to show on the testing (or plants are using up this much).
Are you adding anything else that contains N (in any form?) Doesn't Flourish Comprehensive contain a small amount of N, P and K? Very small amounts.

7) I do not think the form of the fertilizer matters.
Tablets, liquids, dry...
They ALL become liquids before the plants can use them.
I would go ahead and keep on trying to figure out what is going on while using up whatever materials you have on hand. Switch over to the dry sources as each of the others run out.
Diana is offline  
post #15 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
Planted Member
 
PTrader: (0/0%)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadmaster View Post
Too much light is no good for you .
Is easiest variable in planted tank to control/dial in.
The suspicion is that the plants are not using the daily dose, so why would less light and therefore less nutrient demand help this. This is an honest unloaded question so kindly respect that.

Born a Pisces, Always a Pisces
Bobbybills is offline  
Reply

Tags
None

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the The Planted Tank Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome