Well, start there, but monitor the tank by eye and by test, and if you see something that looks questionable, question it. Test tap water (if that is what you are using in the tank) and the tank when you start.
I use CSM+B ( www.aquariumfertilizers.com
) for traces, and I add a little extra iron.
Water movement: Set up the tank they way you want it, then turn loose some flake fish food. Something that sinks slowly. See if the water movement is right. The biggest problem will be to get as much of the CO2 as possible distributed around the tank. Wherever the equipment set up does this would be my choice for optimum set up.
Here are some things to look for that might modify the dosing. Each situation is different, so what works for me may not be the best solution for you.
If you already have things running and the tank stocked, what is the NO3 level right before a water change? Is the fish food already supplying enough nitrogen? If the plants are using it all up, and the test is usually way down in the single digits to 0 ppm, then dose per your research. If the fish food is already supplying all the nitrogen the plants want there is no point in dosing more.
Similarly, the Equilibrium. If the GH is already where you want it, and is not dropping between water changes, then you do not need to add more calcium and magnesium. It may be that the fish food is supplying enough. Note that Equilibrium has a lot of potassium. If you decide to reduce or not use the Equilibrium you will probably have to increase the potassium.