Plant Deficiencies - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Plant Deficiencies

i thaught that java fern is easy to grow but here is the problem. my java ferms leaves looks like they are rotted (mostly on the end of leaf tip). looks like they are melting on end of the tip of half way and only half of the leaf looks healthy. this is happening to the new leaves which grows with the same problem on them. i think it might be iron Deficiencies.

while some of the other plants leaves looks like they are getting burnt. riccia seems to be growing very well without any problem.

please advise me so i could take the right action to solve this issue.

i use csm+B (leaf zone for extra iron), potassium nitrate, mono phosphate, calcium, magnesium as a fertilizers.

thank you
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 09:15 AM
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Light, how long is your light cycle, temp, ph/hardness, co2?
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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hi

Quote:
Originally Posted by over_stocked View Post
Light, how long is your light cycle, temp, ph/hardness, co2?
lights are on for 9-10 hours a day, 78F water temp, 7.2 PH, alkalinity - 180, hardness - 150, pressurized co2 system 5lb diffused by red sea 500 reactor, stays lime green on drop checker after 6 hours of being on with the lights.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 01:56 PM
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I don't know much about this hobby but IMO it's from too much light for the specie. I have similar issues with the same plant that sits against some background stems. If I keep those stems short and compact against the back wall the Java fern has some leaf tips that look like lettuce that has been frozen and then thawed.

SteveU
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTR View Post
I don't know much about this hobby but IMO it's from too much light for the specie. I have similar issues with the same plant that sits against some background stems. If I keep those stems short and compact against the back wall the Java fern has some leaf tips that look like lettuce that has been frozen and then thawed.

SteveU
i will post a picture of how it looks like, maybe that will show the problem am facing. i dont think that too much light should cause any problem to java fern IMO.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 03:21 PM
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Too much light can cause a problem to ANY plant.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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hi there

Quote:
Originally Posted by over_stocked View Post
Too much light can cause a problem to ANY plant.
can you tell us what kind of problems could happen. would adding floating plants help to reduce the light and what kind of floating plant would you recomend.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 04:54 PM
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Too much light will actually stunt the growth of plants not make them grow better. With high light it becomes critical that nutrient levels and CO2 are dialed in properly. If it is taking 6 hours for your drop checker to turn green your CO2 and/or circulation needs tweaking. Have you tried moving your drop checker to other parts of the tank to see if the reaction time and CO2 level is consistent throughout?

I noticed in your other thread that you are growing riccia. How long after lights come on does it take for your riccia to pearl? Riccia is an excellent CO2 indicator plant, it should pearl really easily if CO2 levels are good.

Hanging a light fixture is the best way to have control over light levels since the distance above the tank can be adjusted until you find the sweet spot. I have one tank that I use floating plants in to reduce light levels. I am growing Phyllanthus fluitans (Red Root Floater).
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_bu View Post
Too much light will actually stunt the growth of plants not make them grow better. With high light it becomes critical that nutrient levels and CO2 are dialed in properly. If it is taking 6 hours for your drop checker to turn green your CO2 and/or circulation needs tweaking. Have you tried moving your drop checker to other parts of the tank to see if the reaction time and CO2 level is consistent throughout?

I noticed in your other thread that you are growing riccia. How long after lights come on does it take for your riccia to pearl? Riccia is an excellent CO2 indicator plant, it should pearl really easily if CO2 levels are good.

Hanging a light fixture is the best way to have control over light levels since the distance above the tank can be adjusted until you find the sweet spot. I have one tank that I use floating plants in to reduce light levels. I am growing Phyllanthus fluitans (Red Root Floater).
i have the drop checker far away from the co2 diffuser. let just say that on my 50 gallon i have the drop checker on the the left side of the glass while the co2 on the other right side of the glass. the co2 diffuser is right under koralia 1, which shoots out co2 toward the middle of the tank. the riccia dont pearl sometime at all, but in some cases it did but only after 7 hours or so. the pearling is not being released or sometime it releases some small bubbles but not allot. i did tweak up the co2 diffuser to see any changes. right now its at 3-4bps.


i dont understand why i am getting an answer about that my light is too much now. i have asked all the professional on these kind of web site and i only bought what they recomend to me.

what kind of hanger can i get for the 48" fixture. i cant have it installed on the ceiling. so i need something that will sit on the ground etc. but i would rather have some floating plants to minimize the light problems.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 06:26 PM
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I also keep the drop checker in my 50 gallon tank on the side opposite where the CO2 enters and use two canister filters plus a Koralia 1 to move water around. I do move the drop checker to different locations from time to time to check circulation and see if the levels are consistent in different parts of the tank.

I am running 108 watts of T5HO over my tank, the 50 longs are not that tall and I found it difficult to get the tank dialed in with the light sitting on the legs. It is now hanging 13" above the tank, the tank is still difficult to keep dialed in, very easy to end up with staghorn algae if I am not careful. Every tank is different what works easily for one person may not work the same way for another. It is easier to learn the theory behind what should work than to apply it. This hobby has an ongoing learning curve, you learn from mistakes as well as the good choices. Remember that each tank is a unique constantly evolving eco-system.

Your problems seem to be related to having too much light in relation to your CO2 and dosing levels with the CO2 being the main problem. That is different than your 108 watts of T5HO being too much light to ever be able to make it work. Put a fixture with six 54 watt T5HO bulbs directly on your 50 gallon tank and it is very likely that it would simply be too much light to ever get the tank in balance. There is a limit to how much CO2 you can inject before you will kill your fish. Less light makes it easier that is all, but you still have to find the balance.

Check out the following thread about making a DIY ADA style light bar. I made mine, it was cheap and easy. The most expensive thing is the conduit bending tool, you may be able to borrow one. I bought one, bent my conduit and returned the tool to Home Depot, just make sure you don't remove any tags or scuff it up. Some folks just bent the conduit in the store without buying the tool. I made my light bars so they faced forward, you can see a picture of that style in post #69 of the thread, that style only requires one simple bend per bar. The photo in post #69 also shows how to attach the bars to the tank stand.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...hqi-cheap.html
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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hello all

currently my mind is going crazy right now. i dont understand why some people advice and after buying it then i end up in new problem like co2 being low, light being high, add more fertilizers. like i said i have bought everything based on the adviced and no one ever said the light was bad, they said it was perfect for the 50g aquarium and i should not have any problems. i gave up on the 20g in the past while thinking that 50g should be good start and i will keep the light in good levels as adviced by others. the 20g tank i had a algae problems due to high light 6wpg coralife power compact. i really cant afford to loose this tank as it cost me too much and i really dont want to use the light hanger (i thought i could but dont want the extra things hanging aorund the room). if there is anything else i could do please advice but wihout lifting up the light with the hanger.

am sorry but i did not get clear answer on plant deficiencies which i had posted in the past. is there any link that could show aquarium plant deficiencies with full details and picture of deficiencies.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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those pearl were seen after 7-8 hr of light and co2 being on.


what kind of deficiency is this, also some other plants leaves looks burnt and bending downward or inward.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 11:28 PM
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^ that just looks like new growth to me?

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
^ that just looks like new growth to me?
the top half of the leaf is getting transparent, as you could see (sorry the camera isn't that great). you could also see the same on ther other leaves on the right side. any idea
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2010, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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this is why i got my lights (read the link).the lights are about 24" in height from substrate. the tank itself is 19" in height and fixture legs gives about another 5 inches in height.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/eq...eder-tank.html
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